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THE SKIN 



Its Care and Treatment 



BY 



EMILY LLOYD 



Teaching every detail of this 

important work, in a simple, 

concise and practical 

manner 



7;uu^/ ; '/ye 



7?U3 . (/£ma% 



THIRD EDITION 

Re-written and Greatly Enlarged 



Mcintosh Battery &f Optical Company 

CHICAGO 



LIBRARY of CONGRESS 
. Two Copies Received 

NOV 29 (907 

0Coajn*nt tntry 

ouaa \ c*. xxc, «o. 



\C\Dl 



Copyright, 1907 
McIntosh Battery & Optical Co. 



DEDICATION. 



Since the last revision of this Bool^ — three years ago — 

the demand for information on these subjects has increased 

i. 

so tremendously, that in addition to revising all the old mat- 
ter, many new chapters have been added, and a remark- 
ably large number of illustrations have been prepared with 
the view of making every step of this work as plain and as 
practical as possible. 

To the earnest, honest, ambitious women who are con- 
stantly looking for information in the hope that they may be 
of benefit to their fellow beings, this book is dedicated with 
the hope that their satisfaction in learning of the practical 
procedures may be as great as the gratification of the writer 
in knowing that throughout the country there is a concerted 
effort to raise this work to the highest standard. 



INTRODUCTION. 



"The force, the mass of character, mind, heart or soul 
that a man can put into any work is the most important 
factor in that work." 

In the last five years such wonderful strides have been 
made in the work of retarding the appearance of age, that 
today every intelligent woman unhesitatingly acknowledges 
her interest in learning of any really practical process that 
will enable her to look as young as she feels. 

From a business standpoint a well preserved appearance 
is necessary. All people can not appear to be youthful, nor 
would such a procedure be advisable, but at any time the 
desire not to look much beyond middle life is one that 
appeals to the majority of people because of the fact that 
once past that period much of their former influence seems 
to be lost. 

Wrinkles, sallowness, sunken cheeks and faded, lifeless 
hair are no longer regarded as the necessary forerunners 
of age, but are looked upon as audacious invaders whose 
onslaughts are to be instantly resented and repelled. 

In reality the woman who knows how to care for her- 
self and proceeds to make use of this knowledge is one 
who can be positive that she will live longer, look better and 
enjoy life twice as well as her more ignorant and hence her 
decidedly more unfortunate sister. There is nothing mys- 
terious about this work of preservation. It is only practical 
to use care in preserving anything worth while. 



in 



iv INTRODUCTION. 

For instance the careful housewife sees that the hot 
sun does not shine upon her delicate lace curtains or fade 
her costly draperies. Every particle of dust is removed 
each day from the mahogany and applications of polish 
made at frequent intervals to keep the surface in the best 
condition. Even the house itself must have a coat of paint 
at intervals to keep from looking weather beaten. From 
the care of the house and furniture to gowns and shoes 
the same careful attention is extended, and yet at the same 
time many of these same wise women are foolish enough to 
believe that the face, hair and hands need absolutely no atten- 
tion and that it's "natural" to look worn, tired and faded 
after thirty years have passed. 

Poor abused Mother Nature has had so many crimes 
of this kind laid at her door that she has long ceased to 
wonder at the injustice of it all, so in order to clear her from 
such accusations, let us whisper into the ears of the careful 
housewife who is careless of herself that Nature must be 
helped if good results are to be obtained. Take the most 
beautiful garden imaginable, and unless some one pulls up 
the weeds and destroys the worms the leaves of the plants 
will soon become yellow, the plant will wither and soon 
rank growths will choke out all the really desirable speci- 
mens. "Help Nature, and in this way help yourself," is the 
motto every woman should learn if wshe would make the 
most of her opportunities. 

The woman in business must also remember this advice. 
If she would produce the desired effect upon her patients 
she must believe what she advocates, practice what she 
preaches and at all times keep herself up to standard. She 
should endeavor to work with as well as for them, and 



INTRODUCTION. v 

should be able and glad at all times to explain every detail 
of every treatment she advocates. 

For well trained operators, the demand has never been 
so great as at the present time, and hence every woman who 
really knows her work and is a good operator will find 
every moment occupied in caring for the many defects of the 
skin that so often mar the happiness of the unfortunates 
who have been improperly treated and who feel that their 
troubles have made them more than ordinarily conspicuous. 

Unless the health is seriously impaired, few condi- 
tions will be found really hopeless. Patience and persever- 
ance together can work wonders. So with a knowledge of 
the applications necessary, the use of electric current in- 
dicated, proper diet and hygiene there will be very few 
failures recorded if sufficient time is given to the work and 
enough treatments are taken. 

The day of miracles is past. Commonsense treatment 
is here, and will remain a potent factor in obtaining any 
degree of improvement w T hile to preserve such a result, in- 
telligent care, will be all that can be required. 

There are in reality very few hopelessly plain women. 
A little thought, sufficient work and good taste will work 
wonders for every one. 

The girl with the Rocky Mountain features, sandy hair 
and freckles may make herself positively repulsive by pull- 
ing her hair tightly back and fastening it in a tight knot at 
the back of her head, exposing herself with no protection to 
the skin, in all kinds of weather, and finally by degenerating 
into a round-shouldered, bony picture of despair. A little 
attention, a few words of advice, wise direction, and be- 
hold, a willowy, smiling vision, the really fine hair loosely 



vi INTRODUCTION. 

coiled about the head, softening the outline of the features, 
the complexion soft and beautiful as a result of the neces- 
sary exertion morning and evening. Contentment has re- 
placed morbid dissatisfaction and a spirit of good fellow- 
ship impels her to help others to learn what may be done 
for them. 

The swarthy maiden with heavy, black, bristling brows 
meeting in a point over the center of the nose, dull, color- 
less complexion, awkward, ambling gait and oily, coarse 
skin, is quite as desperate until she learns that the electric 
needle will permanently remove the point ; tiny scissors trim 
the bristles into the delicate arch, proper care, refine and 
bleach the skin. Practice in physical culture will soon en- 
tirely change the carriage, and if under all this care the 
color does not appear, a harmless tint may be employed, and 
behold a different creature, her black eyes glowing with 
happiness, her presence breathing of good health. 

The nondescript damsel, with eyes, hair and complexion 
that seem to have been selected from a jumble and thrown 
carelessly at her, has the most difficult time of all. A little 
study will enable her to find the style she should adopt, and 
then she must work accordingly. Invisible eyebrows may be 
coaxed into a well defined line, the fiery freckles frightened 
away by the use of ointments, the figure will develop aston- 
ishingly under proper work, and in short the "ugly duck- 
ling" will disappear and graciously give place to the beau- 
tiful swan. 

So instances may be multiplied, in which a little knowl- 
edge has been of inestimable benefit to those who by im- 
proved appearance may alter the conditions of their life. 
Nature's failures are too numerous to convince the student 
that "whatever is, is right." She must learn to discriminate, 



INTRODUCTION. vii 

and must resolve to spare no effort toward repairing de- 
fects that may exist, as well as to use discretion in preserv- 
ing the perfect skin that is occasionally found. Love of the 
beautiful is natural and universal, and those who have not 
the good fortune to be born with all the attributes neces- 
sary to the perfect type, may at least stretch out their hands 
toward the aids that may enable them to remedy the grav- 
est faults, remembering always, that with health as a foun- 
dation, common sense as an aid, and perseverance to inspire, 
the results will indeed be satisfactory. 

When it has been possible to know of these facts in 
youth, so much the better. If not there is still hope, for the 
clever woman realizes that as she grows older she improves 
mentally. Ripened by experience, at no time is her intel- 
lect more powerful, her wit keener, nor her judgment better 
than after she has passed the half century mark. 

Physiological development has enabled her to maintain 
the erect carriage, full chest and well proportioned figure 
of her youth, and she now sees as never before the impor- 
tance of the daily work, which, properly employed, will ban- 
ish the lines traced by the gathering years, prevent the wast- 
ing of the tissues and preserve the contour and firm tex- 
ture of the skin. 

The power of beauty is universally acknowledged. In 
all countries, in all ages and by all types of men, poets and 
warriors, artists and statesmen, susceptible striplings and 
phlegmatic business men, alike testify to the potent influence 
of this wonderful gift. 

It has been perhaps due to a realization of this fact that 
so many women have despaired, for after beholding the 
loveliness of others they who were but meagerly endowed 
with charms so lavishly bestowed upon more fortunate 



viii INTRODUCTION. 

rivals felt that it was useless to persevere in work which 
could but make them less repulsive. To women of this 
type the certainty of improvement so great as to be well 
worth while has been a wonderful stimulus. And as a con- 
sequence the shrinking, self conscious and unattractive wom- 
an of thirty-five has often been developed into a social 
power before she has reached forty. The mere realization of 
her success so fills her w T ith quiet joy that she unconscious- 
ly inspires her associates with an ambition to follow her 
example. 

A wise man once remarked "that to satisfy others one 
must be self-satisfied. " This statement is indeed true and 
should stimulate the negligent into an effort to make the 
most of opportunities. The young girl should labor unceas- 
ingly to obtain the degree of perfection to which her very 
youth entitles her. The woman of thirty may have se- 
cured her knowledge later in life, but still not too late to 
know that by sufficient care she may postpone the appear- 
ance of age for years to come. Older women must be con- 
vinced that much may be done toward repairing the damages 
wrought by neglect and carelessness, and all women should 
be persuaded that it is quite as essential to devote a certain 
amount of time each day to personal attention as it is to 
waste hours in foolish gossip, embroidering useless doilies, 
or in caring for expensive ornaments. The chief ornament 
of any home is the woman who presides over it, and she 
should be ambitious enough to realize the importance of 
work that will aid her to preserve the charms she has, as 
well as to assist her in acquiring those she may be without. 



CONTENTS. 



PAGE 

CHAPTER I. — The Appearance of the Normal Skin 15 

The necessity for the use of pure soaps and oils. The ef- 
fect of irritation upon the scarf skin. Experiment in skin 
grafting. 

CHAPTER II. — Why Cremes are Necessary 20 

Value as a protecting agent. Use of ointments among the 
ancients. Requirements of the skin. The folly of using any 
substitute in place of a pure oil. 

CHAPTER III. — The Manufacture of Cremes 24 

Necessary equipment. How to recognize the pure oils. 
Recipes for making Cremes. 

CHAPTER IV. — Wrinkles, and What Causes Them 34 

The presence of habit lines explained. Cosmetics and 
mechanical appliances to be used with discretion. Best manner 
of preventing lines of age. 

CHAPTER V.— Why We Massage 39 

The ideal masseuse, and her method of work. How often 
massage should be taken. How to prepare the face for massage. 
Value of cleansing the skin thoroughly. How to massage. 

CHAPTER VI.— How to Massage 50 

Why there is one system of work. Manner of using the 
ringers. Length of treatments. Use of the water massage. Elec- 
tric vibratile and mallets as valuable adjuncts to the fingers. 
How to apply an astringent. 

CHAPTER VII. — Blackheads, Pimples and Milia 64 

Absolute assurance of success in most loathsome cases 
when proper precautions are taken. Cause of blackheads. How 
to use the comedone extractor. Method of opening pimples. 
Cleansing the cavities, and after treatment. Use of the negative 
needles to obstinate cases. 

ix 



CONTENTS. 



PAGE 

CHAPTER VIII. — Diet and Directions for Home Work 

in Cure of Blackheads 76 

Manner of treating oily skins. Use of green soap. Importance 
of proper diet, exercise and bathing. Importance of persistent 
efforts. How to proceed in removal of milia. Use of the gal- 
vanic current, followed by water massage in every case. 

CHAPTER IX.— Chloasma or Moth-Patch 83 

Application of powerful remedies for purpose of bleaching 
the skin a mistake. Value of mild treatments aided by electricity. 
Manner of treatment. Use of dioxide of hydrogen as a bleaching 
agent. 

CHAPTER X. — Oily, Stippled and Sallow Skins 94 

Advisability of thoroughly cleansing the skin of face and 
body daily. Suggestions as to diet. Use of mask for refining the 
skin. Best method of whitening muddy complexion. Value of 
massage in connection with the whitening process. 

CHAPTER XL — Scaly, Dry and Flabby Skins 109 

Precautions to be observed in use of water or soap for cleans- 
ing. Oil mixture for sensitive skins. Value of electricity in re- 
storing tone to flabby and withered skins. 

CHAPTER XII. — How to Remove Freckles, Tan and Sun- 
burn 104 

Removal of freckles and precautions to be observed in pro- 
tecting the tender skin. How to prevent tan. Ways of avoiding 
sunburn. Indolence or ignorance usually responsible for dis- 
comfort. 

CHAPTER XIIL— The Use of Powder 110 

A pure powder advisable as a protecting agent. Method of 
manufacturing. Recipes for bathing powder, face powder and 
a liquid cosmetic. Manner of applying powder. 

CHAPTER XIV. — Hints on Bathing and the Use of Soap. . 116 

The educated bather and her favorite bath. Use of lotion 
for softening the bath water. Jelly of violets for preventing 
roughness of skin. Sulphur, bran and electric baths and how to 
take them. Strongly alkaline soap to be avoided. 

CHAPTER XV. — Useful Suggestions to the Operator with 

Directions for Sterilizing the Instruments 123 

Strength of solution used in sterilizing hands and finger 
nails. Boiling process for instruments. Care to be observed in 
the use of creme. Demand for conscientious work in this re- 
spect. 



CONTENTS. xi 

PAGE 

CHAPTER XVI. — How to Furnish the Treatment Rooms. . . 129 

The most practical and effectual method. What is desir- 
able, and what is necessary. The expense involved. 

CHAPTER XVII.— Electricity 137 

Simple experiment by which current may be produced. The 
best battery for ordinary use. Number of cells usually neces- 
sary. Measuring the current. Controlling the current. How 
to select a battery. 

CHAPTER XVIII. — The Removal of Superfluous Hair 163 

Directions for equipment. Position of patient. Use of neg- 
ative pole, and how to insert the needle. Length of time neces- 
sary for each treatment. Advisability of using the bulbous 
needle. Treatment of skin after use of electricity. 

CHAPTER XIX. — The Treatment of Moles, Warts, Naevi.. 176 

Precautions to be observed in the removal of bristly hair 
before attempting treatment of the mole. Necessity for observ- 
ing the appearance of the normal skin near portion worked upon. 
Number of treatments necessary and variation in different cases. 
Necessity for stronger current in treatment of warts. 

CHAPTER XX. — Blanching the Skin, Discoloration, and 

Use of the Faradic Current 188 

Curing red noses. Galvanic current as used in restoring 
tone to the skin. Method of using needle in Acne Rosacea. 
Removal of discolorations. Experiments in cataphoresis. Rapid 
method of bleaching the skin. Use of Faradic current in 
massage. Value of massage roller. Beneficial results obtained 
in treatment of scalp by means of brush attached to Faradic 
current. 

CHAPTER XXL— The Care of the Hands 203 

The ideal hand. Manner of washing the hands properly. 
Use of rose jelly. Keeping hands smooth. Red and swollen 
hands. Cosmetic mittens and whitening paste refining agents. 
Disguise for red hands. Instruments used in manicuring. Rec- 
ipes for polishing powder and bleaching lotion for nails. 

CHAPTER XXII. — Refining and Developing — Arms, Shoul- 
ders, Neck and Bust — Use of Depilatory — Vibratory 
Massage 218 

Value of exercise in developing arms. How to banish rough- 
ness of the skin of arms. How to bleach the hair. Use of the 
depilatory in obstinate cases. Massage and electric treatments. 
Developing neck and bust. 



xii CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

CHAPTER XXIIL— The Mouth and Teeth 228 

Beautiful teeth as rare as perfect gems. Cosmetic defects of 
the mouth and how to treat them. Receding gums. How to 
improve them. Removal of incrustations or yellowish deposits 
upon the teeth. The best dentifrice and how to use it. Method 
of cleansing the teeth. 

CHAPTER XXIV.— The Care of the Feet 236 

Importance of selecting sensible footwear. Massage of the 
feet. Treatment of swollen joints. How to cure ingrown nails 
and corns. 

CHAPTER XXV.— Care of the Hair 245 

Hair as the connecting link between vegetable and animal 
tissue. Cleansing of the scalp. Manner of shampooing. How 
to destroy vermin. 

CHAPTER XXVI.— Treatment of Scalp and Hair. . . ; 255 

Massage of the scalp. Stimulating tonic. Electric treat- 
ments of much value in stopping the falling of the hair. 

CHAPTER XXVII. — The Treatment of Dandruff or 

Seborrhea 264 

Removal of crusts by means of application of ointments. 
Special shampoo for obstinate cases. Necessity for frequent 
shampoo until condition is remedied. Imperative need for 
earnest work. 

CHAPTER XXVIII. — Common Diseases of the Scalp 273 

Alopecia. Eczema. Use of electricity and the blue light. 
Trichophytosis. 

CHAPTER XXIX— How to Dye and Bleach the Hair 280 

Use of a hair dye cannot be permanent. Process of Dyeing. 
How to b'each the hair. How to brighten dull shades. Artificial 
appearance always imparted by bleached hair. 

CHAPTER XXX.— How to Grow Thin 288 

Rapid process of reduction almost invariably dangerous. 
Causes of obesity. Value of physical activity. Loss of vital 
capacity always found in obese conditions. Diet and directions 
for reduction of flesh. Table of weights. 

CHAPTER XXXI— How to Become Plump 294 

Breathing exercises of much benefit. Necessity for proper 
amount of rest. Importance of overcoming undue nervousness. 
Diet, as advocated bv best authorities. 



CONTENTS. xiii 



PAGE 

CHAPTER XXXIL— Physiological Development 298 

Propriety of encouraging interest in this work among the 
middle aged. Experiment conducted by prominent educator 
and results. Wonderful benefits to be obtained by full breath- 
ing. Allowance of air necessary for each person. Bad effect 
caused by rapid violent breathing. Manner in which the busy 
women may secure best results from these exercises. A list of 
the most beneficial breathing exercises. 

CHAPTER XXXIII.— Body Movements 310 

List of exercises suitable for the majority of cases. Strength- 
ening of muscles, arms, legs and back, especially considered, 
symmetrical development easily obtained by sufficient work. 



FULL PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS. 



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Page 

Frontispiece xrv 

Massage — Rotary Motion 33 

Massage of the Eyelid 38 

Use of Electrolytic Cup 46 

Massage of Forehead 51 

Massage About the Eye ' 53 

Massage — Showing Pressure in Back of Neck 55 

Massage — Kneading Motion for Cheek 57 

Massage Under Chin 59 

Massage of Chin, Also Showing How Two Tasks May 

Be Performed at Once 61 

Use of Comedone Extractor for Removing Blackheads 65 

Using Negative Needle in Pimples 69 

Face Cured of Blackheads and Pimples 73 

Bleaching Skin by Means of Antiseptic Lotion Applied 

with Negative Carbon Electrode 85 

Fig. 15. Use of Light for Forcing Whitening Cr'eme Into the 

Deeper Tissues of the Skin 87 

Fig. 16. Removing Marks and Old Cuticle in Bad Case of 

Chloasma After Ecorchement Process 89 

Fig. 17. Skin Free From Any Mark of Chloasma 91 

Fig. 18. Showing Result of Accentuating Features by Use of 

Eyebrow Pencil 113 

Fig. 19. Shampoo Chair and Board 131 

Fig. 20. Irrigating Stand for Use with Electrolytic Cup 133 

Fig. 21. Removal of Superfluous Hair by Electricity, Showing 

Negative Electrode and Forceps 165 

Fig. 22. Removal of Superfluous Hair by Use of Depilatory.. . 169 

Fig. 23. Applying Depilatory 173 

Fig. 24. Use of Both Positive and Negative Electrodes On 

Same Growth 179 

Fig. 25. Growth in Neck Removed by Electricity in Fifteen 

Treatments 183 

Fig. 26. Use of the File 205 

Fig. 27. Use of the Orangewood Stick 209 

Fig. 28. Use of the Stick Polish 213 

Fig. 29. Use of the Buffer 215 

Fig. 30. Showing Action of Depilatory in Section of Arms — 
Smooth Places Indicating Effect in Removing 

Strong Hairy Growth 219 

Fig. 31. Removing Hollows From Neck 223 

Fig. 32. Enlarging Bust by Vibratory Massage 225 

Fig. 33. Massage of the Foot 239 

Fig. 34. Massage of the Joint to Reduce Inflammation 241 

Fig. 35. Bandaging Inflamed Joint 243 

Fig. 36. Massage of the Scalp 254 

Fig. 37. Massage of the Scalp 256 

Fig. 38. Use of Follicle Brush 258 

Fig. 39. Proper Use of Vibratory Massage on Scalp 260 

Fig. 40. Use of Sanitary Hair Brush 262 



XIV 



CHAPTER I. 

THE APPEARANCE OF THE NORMAL SKIN. 

The perfect skin is soft, smooth with a transparent lus- 
ter, elastic and moist, with a coloring that differs greatly 
in individuals. In some instances it is like pale ivory, in 
others a pearly white, often a pinkish cast may be found, 
while certain nationalities possess the peculiar brownish, yel- 
low tints found in the Spanish and Italians. 

The exposed portions of the skin are darker than those 
protected by the clothing, and on close examination the sur- 
face will not appear smooth, but covered w T ith the tiniest 
and finest of lines,, some parallel, others intersecting, while 
in addition a growth of soft, almost colorless hair called 
lanugo is seen to be abundant. It is due to this peculiarity 
of structure, with its tiny furrows and elevations and soft 
down of the "wool hair/' that the delicacy of appearance 
exists. 

The skin is about one-tenth of an inch thick, and is pro- 
vided with a natural oil, exuding imperceptibly under or- 
dinary conditions, and keeping the flesh soft and pliable. 
Perspiration is excreted by the glands and carbonic acid 
gas is eliminated, while oxygen is absorbed. Thus, liquids, 
ointments and substances intended to correct the various de- 
fects may also be forced into the skin, and when rapid re- 
sults are required the necessity exists for frequent bathing 
in connection with proper manipulation. 

The epidermis, or cuticle, is the outer layer of the skin 
and is exposed to the air on one side and attached to the 
corium on the other. This exposure to the air naturally keeps 






16 THE SKIN. 

the outer layer in a drier condition and it is due to this fact 
as well as to the application of friction that the constant 
casting off of scales occurs. Ordinarily this process is 
barely perceptible, but when the secretion of oil is not suffi- 
cient to keep the skin moist, this scaliness becomes extreme- 
ly objectionable and great flakes peel off continually, caus- 
ing the face to look rough and coarse. Under the influence 
of an irritant or where there is made an attempt to bleach 
the skin, the same excessive flaking occurs until the appli- 
cations cease. When the condition is extremely obstinate 
constant inunctions of oil are necessary in order to keep the 
skin in even a presentable condition. Hence the value of 
the flesh or skin foods in cases of this description, as the 
best of them are made from the finest oils and are readily 
absorbed by the skin. 

The mucous or malpighian layer is the deepest of the 
outer layers of the skin and is situated directly above the 
corium. Cones descending from this mucous layer are 
met by the papillae extending up so that all the hollow 
spaces are filled in. It is in this layer that the pigment cells 
are found and it is in a desire to affect this supply of color- 
ing matter that the various ointments for whitening the 
skin are applied and rubbed in vigorously. The irritation 
of the friction loosens the scarf skin and hastens the peeling, 
while the manipulation assists in the process of absorption. 
Should the irritation be prolonged greatly there is danger 
of causing a greater deposit of pigment in this spot instead 
of removing the old discoloration. Carelessness in this 
respect has ruined many faces, for the application of some 
of the powerful bleaches has produced deep cauterizations 
and thus left a permanent disfigurement, impossible to re- 
move. No single treatment of the skin should ever be con- 



THE SKIN. 17 

tinued after redness or burning has been produced. The 
presence of this coloring matter in the mucous layer has 
been made the subject of a curious experiment in which a 
bit of skin from a white man was grafted upon a negro, with 
the result that after a time the grafted portion became as 
black as the rest of the body. 

The corium, or "true skin," is made up of a dense, reg- 
ular structure of elastic fibers. Under this is a layer of con- 
nective tissue and here as well as in the cellular structure 
is found the fatty tissue. The papillae projecting from 
this corium into the mucous layer each contain either the 
daintiest capillary network or nervous apparatus. The 
healthy hue of the skin is thus produced and maintained by 
the tiny blood vessels, while when cold or under the influ- 
ence of a great schock or terror, the nerve filaments pro- 
duce the appearance known as "goose flesh." 

The layers of the skin as named are the most impor- 
tant, though of course physiologists divide and subdivide 
them still farther and explain many details which will 
neither interest nor assist the ordinary student, so no men- 
tion is made here of the distinctions draw r n by some of these 
authors. By studying the connection of the various layers 
it will be seen that the outer layer should be nourished by 
the proper action of the numerous glands in the lower sec- 
tions, while the coloring on the cheeks and face naturally 
comes from the tiny blood capillaries projecting from the 
corium into the mucous layer by means of the papillae. 

The soft luster of the perfect skin is due to the proper 
actions of the numerous glands as well as the presence of 
sufficient subcutaneous fat. Hence any functional or local 
disturbance will naturally affect the coloring and appear- 
ance. In young and healthy people this luster is more pro- 



18 THE SKIN. 

nounced than in those who are older. In fact, one of the 
first signs of approaching age is found in the disappearance 
of this peculiar glow and a manifestation of a dry and illy- 
nourished condition of the skin as shown by numerous 
folds, at first very shallow, and afterward deepening into 
veritable furrows that become rapidly more pronounced 
unless properly treated. 

The normal skin should possess none of these lines 
until the subject is so far advanced in years that age shows 
plainly. To the observant student it is apparent that it is 
more sensible to attempt to correct the various faults by a 
judicious use of external applications as combined with the 
necessary internal treatment, than it is to think that a few 
doses of medicine by way of the mouth into the poor, over- 
worked stomach, can possibly reach every portion of the 
body and correct every evil that exists. 

There is a most peculiar impression among many peo- 
ple that all skins are normal and that the only exceptions 
to this rule are found in instances where cosmetics have 
been applied. In reality, there are just as many exceptions 
to the standard of health in skins as there are in bodies, and 
it is quite as absurd to say that no skin needs treatment as 
it is to say that no human being will ever need medical 
treatment. 

The fact that the skin needs constant care to keep it in 
good condition can nowhere be better illustrated than in 
mentioning the preservation of the flesh of the neck and 
arms in almost every woman, whether any care has been 
bestowed upon them or not. The constant friction from the 
clothing keeps the pores freed from obstructions, while 
protection from the sun and air preserves the whiteness. 
The face, on the other hand, exposed to all changes of tern- 



THE SKIN. 19 

perature, biting winds and burning sun, is naturally affect- 
ed greatly by this exposure. Discretion in caring for it will 
to a great extent, remedy the dangers of necessary expo- 
sure, and keep the complexion in good condition. 

It is hoped that these lines may be convincing enough 
to prove to the majority of women the necessity of constant 
care to keep the pores freed from obstructions, the skin 
from unnecessary defects, and the face free from disfigur- 
ing wrinkles and the appearance of premature old age. 

The treatments advocated in this book have been prac- 
ticed for many years with absolute success. The articles 
are mentioned as used, so that the beginner may know ex- 
actly how to proceed, as vague directions but confuse the 
student. The successful woman in business must depend 
upon unguents of which she knows, if she expects to secure 
good results. Emphasis has been placed upon the impor- 
tance of thoroughly cleansing the skin before work of any 
kind is attempted, because the pores must be in a condition 
to receive the material applied if the results are to be sat- 
isfactory. 



CHAPTER II. 



WHY CREMES ARE NECESSARY. 



When any oil or combination of oils as found in cremes 
is applied to the skin it becomes soft, pliable and smooth. 
It is readily absorbed into the superficial layer of the epi- 
dermis and soon produces a clear appearance besides pre- 
venting undue tension and removing any roughness that 
exists. Methodical applications of ointments further their 
absorption into the skin, and even cause them to appear in 
the blood by way of the lymph vessels. Increase in weight, 
the pleasing roundness and improved appearance are thus 
explained as natural consequences after proper work. 

As a protecting agent a good creme is unexcelled, for 
it forms a water-tight covering that serves to diminish the 
moisture given off by the skin. Sebaceous secretions, fatty 
acids of the sweat, and dirt may also be removed by an 
application of oils, while the use of a thin coating is always 
advisable in order to cause powder to adhere well. The 
actual necessity for the use of cremes can nowhere be bet- 
ter illustrated than during a trip through the Yellowstone 
Park. The only people who enjoy this outing are they who 
realize that their safety and comfort consists in cleansing 
the skin with a creme made for the purpose and then apply- 
ing more before dusting on the powder. Water and soap 
should not be applied until the alkaline water has given 
place to the ordinary variety. Even then, many experienced 
travelers hesitate about using much of it, and instead, stand 
loyally by their cremes and powder. In fact, there are 
skins so peculiarly sensitive that no water can be used, and 
instead the surface must be cleansed with oil of some kind. 



THE SKIN. 21 

The use of seductive ointments and perfumed oils was 
so very general among the ancients that there was a differ- 
ent mixture advocated for every portion of the body, and 
as a basis for many of them the fat of an animal was sup- 
posed to be necessary. For instance, the pomade used for 
the feet and legs was invariably made from the animal who 
possessed most strength and speed. That for the arms and 
chest was termed Phoenician, while the most costly and 
delicate oils were reserved for use on the face, neck and 
hands. There is no doubt that the Greek and Roman women 
owed the preservation of their beauty to this practice of 
anointing after the bath, and it may w r ell be urged on the 
women of the present century as a very necessary process 
in the art of beautifying, as well as a powerful aid in keep- 
ing the skin of the body and face in an excellent condition. 

The use of a good unguent or skin food should be 
recommended for the purpose of massaging not only the 
face but also the entire body at least once a week after the 
vapor or steam bath. A good cream is one that may be 
readily absorbed by the pores, leaving the skin soft and pli- 
able, but with no appearance of oiliness. Ointments are 
made the means of treating many of the skin affections, as 
they may be absorbed so easily into the skin, that in this 
manner much may be done by way of external application. 
In any treatments of this kind, it is very necessary that the 
pores be kept absolutely free from obstruction, so that the 
oils may be able to penetrate readily. 

The knowledge of just what treatment each skin needs 
is one possessed only by the experienced worker. In many 
instances there must be a combination of remedies skilfully 
applied to counteract the various peculiar conditions, and in 
all cases much perseverance must exist. Many are troubled 



22 THE SKIN. 

with abnormally dry skins and with freckles also. The 
treatment in this instance must be so directed that the de- 
mand for a nourishing oil may be supplied, while also a 
penetrating remedy may be used in order to affect the ab- 
normal amount of coloring matter in the mucous layer of 
the skin. In the work of treating blackheads, in which there 
is an excessive secretion of oil, there must be oil used to 
penetrate the glands and stimulate them, and the demand 
for an astringent is also to be considered. So the pecu- 
liarities of each individual must be studied and treated. In 
every instance the use of oils as combined in cremes is a 
necessity. 

Although all intelligent workers realize and can ex- 
plain to their patrons the reasons for applying ointments, 
there are many ignorant though positive souls who attempt 
to discredit the efficiency of work of this kind by asserting 
that the use of cremes will make the hair grow. If this 
were only true, one can well imagine the joy that would be 
speedily felt in the ranks of bald-headed men. The fortu- 
nate manufacturer of such a creme would immediately be- 
come famous as well as rich and would be regarded as a 
public benefactor. Unfortunately at the risk of disappoint- 
ing many, one must be truthful enough to assert that ho 
ordinary creme will cause the growth of hair. 

All skins are covered with the soft wool hair or lanugo. 
In many instances as people grow older this growth be- 
comes more apparent. Close observation in hundreds of 
cases has failed to reveal any connection betjveen the ap- 
pearance of hair and the use of cremes. Very frequently, 
in fact in nearly all cases, this abnormal growth appears 
also on the arms and legs, showing that it is not confined to 
the face alone. Fully one-half of the worst cases the author 



THE SKIN. 23 

has ever seen were found to be guiltless of ever applying 
any kind of a creme to the skin, while the remainder de- 
clared that they were convinced that there would be no 
connection between the use of a good creme and the growth 
of hair. 

There has been an effort during the past few years on 
the part of unscrupulous or ignorant manufacturers to pro- 
duce articles that shall take the place of substances con- 
taining oil, and many high-priced and strongly scented con- 
coctions have been advertised for the purpose of massage, 
having for their chief recommendation the absence of any- 
thing like an oil or fat. This, in itself, should be enough to 
keep any intelligent woman from an attempt to use the 
articles, for every student of physiology should know from 
the nature of the skin that it must have oil of some kind 
applied if it is to be kept in good condition. That much- 
used term, "skin food," is really appropriate for how many 
women who have been withered and faded and haggard, 
years before their time, have had the skin so fed and nour- 
ished that they have looked years younger after only a week 
or so of proper treatment. 



CHAPTER III. 



THE MANUFACTURE OF CREMES. 

The work of combining the various oils into odorous 
mixtures is one that appeals naturally to any woman. She 
who has not this inclination to don a big apron, and stir the 
foamy substance that is to make her far more attractive, 
must have either a heart of adamant or be utterly lacking 
in either imagination or sentiment. Few women ever grow 
so old or become so dead to their sense of beauty that they 
can honestly deny all interest in work of this character. 
And, as we all love to see flowers instead of weeds, well- 
kept houses rather than ruined huts, so, too, a well-groomed 
woman with a complexion free from defects will ever b; j 
more attractive than one who is lined and yellow from 
sheer neglect. 

The necessity for the use of cremes has been so well 
established that it is useless to add more on the subject, but 
the process of making them may well need a few lines of 
explanation. This fascinating art is not without its draw- 
backs, chief among which is the very serious one that con- 
fronts most amateurs — lack of sufficient knowledge. Then, 
too, the work is not a cheap amusement, for by the time the 
various utensils necessary have been collected, and the 
numerous ingredients have been purchased, the outlay is 
far in excess of the cost of the purchased articles, while in 
addition there is always a possibility that the results may 
not be good. Of course, it is absolutely hopeless for any 
one untrained in the work to attempt the composition of 
any of the more complicated recipes, as both the equipment 



THE SKIN. 25 

and the materials would involve too great an outlay, to say 
nothing of the necessity for experience in the work. Hence, 
in the recipes that follow care has been taken to explain 
carefully each step, as well as to select only those that can 
be prepared with a comparatively certain degree of success. 

A good almond oil is the basis of nearly every fine 
preparation. Of course every druggist keeps this oil, but 
every druggist does not keep the finest variety, as there is 
not enough demand to warrant it. Thus the woman who 
wishes to do good work will be under the necessity of pur- 
chasing her oil in the twenty-five-pound cans direct from 
the importers or large drug houses if she wishes to be sure 
of the quality. Cremes made from any nut oils will become 
rancid under the influence of intense or prolonged heat, and 
cremes made from inferior qualities of oils become rancid 
almost immediately, while in addition to this unpleasant 
property they also irritate the skin greatly. All cremes are 
best made in small quantities, and should, when not in use, 
be kept in a cool place with the covers of the jar well fast- 
ened down. 

In purchasing ingredients care should be exercised to 
see that they are the best obtainable. A pure almond oil 
will be of a delicate straw color, clear as crystal, and with 
none of that strong odor so invariably associated with the 
ordinary oils. Lanolin is best purchased in pound packages 
after it has been subjected to the refining process. It has 
always a peculiar, sticky appearance and possesses a mildly 
distasteful and extremely distinctive scent. The finest wax 
is nearly white, not yellow, and comes in small round cakes, 
while the best spermaceti is usually found in long, white 
glistening cakes. Cocoanut oil, when pure and fresh, looks 
like a ball of snow pudding, though of course the strong 



26 THE SKIN. 

odor is never absent. Although other oils are used, the 
three mentioned are those most generally employed and 
also most beneficial in efifect. 

Before attempting to make any cremes an investment 
in an enameled water boiler is absolutely necessary. This 
should be used for nothing but work of this kind, and with 
it should come one or two long-handled granite spoons for 
stirring the oils. In making the creme, care should be ob- 
served in regard to the thorough melting of the white wax, 
spermaceti and other ingredients before the rose water is 
added. In order to have the mixtures appear the best, they 
should be well beaten from the time they are taken from 
the fire until they are cool enough to perfume. 

Creme Celeste is a very good skin food when made 
of the finest materials. It is prepared as follows : 

Almond oil 85 

Spermaceti 25 

White wax 1 g 

Honey I § 

Rose water 2 § 

Borax 1 5 

Rose geranium oil — sufficient to perfume. The oils 
may be melted together, and then the honey added and 
stirred in well. Last of all, the rose water, in which has been 
dissolved one dram of borax. Enough of the oil of rose 
geranium to thoroughly perfume the mixture may be used 
as soon as it is cool. 

Almonda is the friend of the freckled maiden, though 
the action is so mild that she becomes a little discouraged 
at times, for it will not remake her instantly. Still she must 
reflect that no one inexperienced in the art should be in- 
trusted with the use of chemicals that may be potent alike 



THE SKIN. 27 

for good or evil, depending upon the discretion with which 
they are used. This creme should be applied at night after 
washing the face with soap and warm water. It is not so 
penetrating as the whitening creme spoken of elsewhere, 
but has been used with very good results : 

Almond oil 6 § 

Lanolin I § 

Spermaceti 2 § 

Cocoanut oil 1 § 

White wax 15 

White precipitate J 3 

Oil bitter almonds 1 3 

Melt the oils together and then add the white precipi- 
tate first, mixed with one-half ounce of alcohol. Perfume 
with oil of bitter almonds. 

Delight of the Harem sounds quite oriental enough 
to enable one to conjure up a vision of some dusky beauty, 
carefully applying this seductive ointment in the hope of 
making her warm olive skin look a deadly white. This 
creme is really used for whitening the skin of the neck and 
arms temporarily, and is especially useful for the purpose 
of disguising a bad skin in the evening. It should not be 
used on the face, as it is too much of an astringent. 

Almond oil 6 g 

White wax 1 § 

Spermaceti 15 

Paraffin 1 § 

Oxide of zinc 1 § 

Orange blossom oil 20 drops 

In this preparation the oxide of zinc should be well 
sifted through bolting cloth before mixing in with the oils, 
as otherwise the creme may appear a little gritty. The 



28 THE SKIN. 

effect of applying this ointment is most pleasing and it is 
doubtless to some preparation of this kind that the profes- 
sional beauties owe their snowy arms and shoulders. 

The recipes which follow for the use of cremes made 
of strawberry and of cucumber juice are said to be highly 
beneficial. The chief objection to the use of these articles 
is the fact that they require more time in making, and are, 
of course, impossible to obtain at certain seasons of the 
year, for it is said that no hot-house vegetable will do for 
this purpose. 

Strawberry Creme is much used to remove tan or 
discolorations that are not too pronounced. It is made in 
this manner : 

Almond oil 85 

Strawberries 1 qt 

Allow the strawberries to simmer in the hot oil for 
three or four hours, until the greater part of the juice is 
extracted, and then strain through a cheesecloth bag with- 
out using any pressure. Proceed as follows, using for six 
ounces of the strained liquid these ingredients : 

Strained liquid 65 

Lanolin 25 

Spermaceti 25 

White wax 1 o 

Tinct. benzoin 10 

Bals. Peru '. 1 3 

Oil Neroli 1 5 

Add the balsam of Peru to the hot oils and then re- 
move from the fire and stir, beating in the tincture of ben- 
zoin and adding perfumed oil last of all. 

Strawberry Paste. — In connection with the use of 



THE SKIN. 29 

this creme the strawberry paste has also been used to some 
extent. It is easily made and may better be given here, as 

the two are so closely associated : 

Fresh strawberries l lb 

Gum tragacanth y 2 % 

Orris powder I 5 

Almond meal 1 % 

Juice of lemons 3 § 

Rose water y 2 pt 

Dissolve the tragacanth in sufficient rose water to form 
a mucilage, and then crush the strawberries and mix before 
straining. Add the orris root and almond meal and last of 
all the lemon juice. Apply in the form of a thin paste at 
night and remove in the morning, using the creme immedi- 
ately afterward and dusting on powder before exposure to 
the air. 

Cucumber Creme is prepared in much the same way, 
using the same amount of oil and cutting in it as soon as 
warm three good-sized cucumbers which have not been 
peeled : 

Almond oil 8 5 

Cucumbers 3 

Heat well for three or four hours and then strain 
through cheesecloth, adding the following ingredients: 

Strained liquid 6 § 

Paraffin 25 

White wax -. 1 § 

Cocoanut oil 25 

Oil of Neroli 1 3 

A creme that may be used for eruptions that occur so 
frequently during the summer months is prepared in this 
manner : 



30 



THE SKIN 



Lanolin 2 § 

Cocoanut oil .....45 

Paraffin 1 § 

White wax 1 § 

Carbolic acid 1 3 

In this creme the oils are melted and the acid added 
when the mixture is cool. It is best if applied after wash- 
ing the face well with a mild soap and warm water, just 
before retiring at night. 

Another creme most popular with those who suffer 
from prickly heat or the tiny red pimple that appears on 
the arms and shoulders is made by using witch hazel in- 
stead of rose water, the other ingredients being practically 
the same as those used in any cold creme : 

Witch hazel 3 § 

Lanolin 2 § 

Almond oil 45 

White wax .'■••• I 3 

Spermaceti 25 

Skin Food. — For those who find glycerine agrees with 
the skin the following recipe for a skin food will be most 
acceptable, as in this formula it appears to good advantage : 

Sweet almond oil 4 § 

Spermaceti 25 

White wax 1 5 

Glycerine 2 % 

Powdered borax 1 3 

Rose water 2 § 

Oil rose 10 drops 

Melt the oils together and dissolve the borax in the 
rose water and glycerine. Add the other ingredients, beat- 
ing constantly until cold. Perfume last of all. 



THE SKIN. 31 

The list of these pleasing and useful cosmetics is in- 
deed a long one and might be continued indefinitely were 
it not decidedly impracticable for the ordinary amateur to 
indulge in the pleasing though expensive pastime of mak- 
ing cremes. Why it is, no one knows, but it is surely a fact 
that while women delight to make these cosmetics, they 
seldom have any faith in the efficacy of anything they can 
prepare, and it is probably due to this as much as anything 
else that so few women in business now manufacture their 
own cosmetics. 

Buying any of the ingredients in a small way is ex- 
tremely expensive, while the work of concocting the various 
articles requires much time as well as a special training. 
No one preparation can ever be used successfully for all 
defects, and it requires much knowledge to enable a mas- 
seuse to judge the requirements of each skin, as well as to 
know the best method of treating it. All work, to be bene- 
ficial, must be performed methodically and intelligently, 
and this applies especially to the use of the various remedies 
indicated in treatment of the ordinary skin affections. 

The operator must remember that much besides the 
possession of a good formula is necessary if she is to make 
cosmetics that are to be really beneficial. She may be mix- 
ing up ingredients that are really harmful if she does not 
know enough to be able to tell when an article is pure, or, 
when it has been adulterated. She must not only know 
chemistry, but she must also know the physiology of the 
skin if she hopes to do really good work in manufacturing, 
and unless she can afford to obtain the necessary apparatus 
she is foolish to attempt any work in this line. 

No greater mistake can be made by an operator than 
to tell her patients she knows a creme is pure because she 



32 



THE SKIN 



made it herself. The cities are filled with women who have 
never done anything to learn the correct method of making 
cremes but who nevertheless insist upon making the* at- 
tempt to do good work in this line. 

To be efficacious, a creme must not only be properly 
made but also properly applied, and not until all these con- 
ditions are understood can any one hope to do successful 
work. In fact, although many people dabble in mixing 
things just because of the enjoyment the work affords only 
a few reliable operators try to make their own cremes, but 
instead, purchase them of reliable firms, realizing that thus 
they are certain of doing much toward instilling into the 
minds of their patients a more implicit confidence in their 
method of treatment. 




Fig. 2. Massage-the Rotary Motion. 



CHAPTER IV. 



WRINKLES AND WHAT CAUSES THEM. 

Although the word wrinkle is unavoidably associated 
with the thought of age, in reality many wrinkles have little 
connection with the age of the person and are caused by 
the carelessness of the subject rather than by the weight 
of years. 

Habit lines form in early Hfe, and among those com- 
monly observed, some of which serve to alter the most 
winning face into one far from prepossessing, may be men- 
tioned the creases caused by elevating the eyebrows con- 
stantly while conversing. Lines of this kind are frequently 
deep and obstinate before the age of twenty has been 
reached. The straight line found running from the root of 
the nose up into the forehead, giving to the face a surly, 
disagreeable expression, is made by scowling or squinting 
when reading, or inspecting any object that requires close 
scrutiny. The appearance of these lines in exactly the same 
portions of the face in every member of a family from one 
generation to another undoubtedly points to the influence 
of heredity. It also indicates the existence of gross care- 
lessness, for by a little effort toward muscle control, it will 
soon be found that any of these habits may be cured, even 
if every member of the family for the past seven hundred 
years has insisted upon having them. 

Cosmetics containing harmful metallic astringents may 
aiso be mentioned as a cause of the appearance of deep re- 
pulsive lines, occurring particularly in the cheeks, and 
generally very difficult to remove. Wrinkles of this kind 



THE SKIN. 35 

are especially apt to cause an appearance of extreme age, 
even though the subject is a young person, for not only are 
the folds deep, but the surrounding flesh, as well, seems to 
be dry and lifeless. 

Ill health is another factor in causing lines to appear, 
and in most instances of this kind the skin seems poorly 
nourished as well, while the lines appear by the dozen, 
crossing and recrossing the flesh until the face looks like a 
bit of patchwork. When the skin has the feeling of parch- 
ment, the lines are apt to be particularly hard to erase, and 
constant inunctions of oil are necessary to make the com- 
plexion even presentable. 

Mechanical appliances are responsible for much trouble, 
and the use of the face steamer may be mentioned as 
being particularly harmful. The intense heat extracts the 
fat from the tissues and in time produces a flabby condition 
of the skin. The pores become large and the wrinkles form 
quickly. Another potent cause of trouble in this respect 
may be found in the small glass arrangement provided with 
a rubber bulb. By placing the glass upon the face and 
compressing the bulb, the flesh is drawn into the glass by 
suction. True, the blood rushes to the surface, and the skin 
becomes uniformly pink, but the mischief comes from the 
undue stretching that assists in producing fresh lines in- 
stead of removing the old ones. 

Strongly alkaline washes and bleaches, undiluted alco- 
hol, too much benzoin, and other similar preparations have 
an intensely drying effect upon the skin, and make much 
mischief by affecting the supply of oil necessary to a health- 
ful condition. 

An active factor in assisting wrinkles to appear may 
be found in nearly every bedroom. If the light streams 



36 



THE SKIN. 



directly from the windows toward the bed in such a man- 
ner that the sun's rays can penetrate through the crevices 
of the shades or around the edges, falling directly upon the 
face, the lines about the eyes and forehead will be found 
unusually deep. This is due to the unconscious contraction 
of the brows, causing the wrinkles to multiply rapidly and 
may easily be avoided by either changing the position of the 
bed, hanging heavy curtains over the windows, or by using 
the foot of the bed in place of the head so that the sleeper 
will not face the light. 

Lines of age are those that will come to every face in 
the course of time, for no power has been found as yet that 
is of avail in persuading Time to move less rapidly. The 
appearance of the unwelcome guests that mark the gather- 
ing years can therefore be treated only as a matter of 
course, at the same time making an effort to correct any 
faulty condition of the skin that may aid them in obtaining 
a stronger hold. Patient labor will do wonders toward 
making the traces less apparent, and if the skin is skilfully 
cared for, lines may not appear for many years. Of course, 
no face could be interesting without traces of expression, 
and the woman of a happy disposition who continually 
smiles whether at trouble or joy, will invariably have a face 
that will indicate this tendency, while the woman who is a 
victim of melancholia and allows her mood to govern her 
life, will just as positively exhibit to the world lines that 
betray her weakness. So the observant student who has 
cultivated the habit of studying human nature will be able 
to tell much of a woman's life by the appearance of her 
face, unless she has trained herself into exhibiting no emo- 
tion at any time. 

Wrinkles that form later in life and that so clearly 



THE SKIN. 37 

disclose these secrets are caused by; the loosening of the 
connections' of the skin, the disappearance of the subcu- 
taneous fat, and the connective tissue, and the flattening of 
the tiny papillae. Hence the only method that will retard 
this process is that which consists in gently but thoroughly 
cleansing the skin in such a manner that the pores may be 
thoroughly opened and the oil necessary to the nourishment 
of the tissues may be readily absorbed. This process of 
absorption must be assisted by manipulation or friction 
conducted by means of the finger massage. The circula- 
tion should be brought into action by exercise and by the 
use of electricity when necessary. The application of cremes 
and nourishing foods should be made at frequent intervals 
in a systematic manner in order to replace the constant 
waste, while baths and correct massage will so tone and 
strengthen the muscles that the skin will respond readily to 
the v/ork indicated. In the treatment of wrinkles emphasis 
should ever be placed on the use of gentle rather than forci- 
ble efforts to remove them and only the most scientific 
method should be employed in this work. By following 
instructions and observing the directions indicated in the 
illustrations the work may be done most successfully. 




Fig. 3. Massage of the Eyelid, 



CHAPTER V. 

WHY WE MASSAGE. 

Massage is now fully recognized as an important factor 
in the treatment of many skin affections. It is not only em- 
ployed to retard the appearance of age, but is also valuable 
as an assistant in promoting the absorption of the various 
ointments used in the many skin affections. In fact, so great 
has been the progress of information regarding the best 
methods of treating the skin that one rarely sees an "old 
woman" now. Judging from the presence of children, and 
grandchildren, a woman will be known to have passed a 
certain age, but aside from this actual knowledge, her ap- 
pearance will positively give no suggestion of her real years. 

In reality massage bears to the face the same relations 
that careful cleansing does to the gowns that simply must 
last a certain length of time. Every woman knows that 
attention of this kind is necessary if she would keep her 
wardrobe in good condition, and in time all women will be 
convinced that they owe themselves at least as much atten- 
tion as they bestow upon their clothing. 

Although very excellent results are attained by the 
trained masseuse, still there is much to be said in favor of 
the home work, for by patient application of the principles 
of massage, any ambitious woman can succeed in keeping 
her face entirely free from those dreaded heralds of age — 
wrinkles. There is no doubt that the woman who is will- 
ing to give ten or fifteen minutes each day to this work, 
can practically clear her face from any signs of creases or 
lines. 



40 THE SKIN. 

Of course, there is much of advantage in being able 
to obtain treatment from those who have every appliance at 
hand to aid in the work, and in addition there is that sooth- 
ing sensation of absolute rest so gratifying to the nervous 
soul who submits herself to the care of the professional. 
However, when it is not possible to do this, there is great 
comfort in the thought of what may be accomplished by 
dint of will and perseverance. When circumstances per- 
mit, the massage treatments may be taken twice a week 
with great benefit, and the systematic work continued at 
home just the same. If one has spent a restless night, and 
the morning shows signs of this wakefulness, a little cold 
water dashed over the skin and followed by a brisk mas- 
sage for but two or three minutes will freshen the com- 
plexion and, in fact, invigorate the entire system, as w T ell 
as do much service in the way of routing the enemy. 

A skin food or creme is always used in connection with 
the massage treatment, not only because the materials will 
be absorbed into the skin, but also to aid the fingers in the 
work, as otherwise the skin would become red and irrita- 
ted by the constant friction. In this climate, with its varia- 
tions of heat and cold, every woman who wishes to appear 
well must positively pin her faith to the use of prepara- 
tions of this kind. Nature may have intended all people 
to have beautiful complexions, but she also planned at the 
same time many other things, and as lives are lived with- 
out any reference to her suggestions excepting to com- 
plain because she has not done more, it is rather foolish to 
blame her for all the troubles that most of us possess. 

The country maid is often quoted as an example of 
health and beauty, but alas ! her comeliness is not permanent, 
and at thirty the buxom lass has lost her roses and most of 



THE SKIN. 41 

her teeth. The cheelcs are hollow, the forehead lined. 
Streaks of brown invade the tan and make the complexion 
hopeless, while round shoulders aid to make her look every 
day of fifty. The worst of the matter is, she feels it, too, 
and is assured that the best years of her life have passed, 
while her city sister of the same age blooming as a rose, 
feels that life is just commencing to be of the most interest. 

Physiologists tell us that the majority of people are not 
perfectly developed until they have passed twenty-eight 
years. Some of the muscles are only then perfectly capable 
of doing the work required of them. If this is true, the 
period of maturity may well be advanced another ten years 
and fifty should find a woman at her best. The majority 
of intelligent women are at their best at this age, but some 
of them who have not progressed so rapidly still feel du- 
bious of the propriety of making an efifort to appear youth- 
ful and look forward with dread to an inefficient and unen- 
joyable old age. 

However, each day brings more recruits to the ranks of 
the hopeful, and as information becomes disseminated widely 
more women will see in the gathering years the time when 
perfected mentally, and in good condition physically, they 
can really accomplish great things. 

Massage is naturally the one great factor in producing 
the best results in work of this kind, and of all forms of 
massage, nothing can give the benefit that the manipulations 
of the finger-tips bestow. Many devices have been invented 
and advocated. Many are excellent when combined with 
the original form, but all must be considered subservient to 
the soft yet forcible touch bestowed by the fingers of the 
good masseuse. 



42 THE SKIN. 

The cleansing process advocated as a necessary part of 
every treatment is based upon the requirements of the skin. 

HOW TO PREPARE THE FACE FOR MASSAGE. 

As a preparation for any massage treatment, the skin 
should always first be thoroughly cleansed by the applica- 
tion of a searching ointment that will remove the accumula- 
tion of fatty acids and aid in freeing the pores from seba- 
ceous matter. This application of creme has entirely super- 
seded the old fashioned use of hot towels because it cleanses 
without relaxing the muscles or enlarging the pores or in- 
flaming the eyes, and best of all positively does not make 
the flesh at all flabby. 

For the purpose of cleansing, an ordinary massage 
creme cannot be used as it is too heavy and dose not pene- 
trate sufficiently. Hence the lettuce creme is always in- 
dicated. Before making the application, however, the sub- 
ject should have her hair well protected by means of a head- 
band, the gown should be covered with a long white apron 
and heavy towels folded about the neck and tucked in care- 
fully so that there may be no danger of having the clothing 
soiled by any of the materials used. 

Then a liberal coating of the lettuce creme may be ap- 
plied upon the face and neck, not even omitting the ears. 
This should be rubbed in gently with the tips of the fingers, 
and allowed to remain on the face while the operator is pre- 
paring the water for the electrolytic massage. 

The water should be used as warm as it can be borne 
with any comfort, and after the tank has been filled one of 
the three saturated solutions may be added, depending upon 
the condition found. Borax is indicated in an abnormally 
dry, wrinkled or scaly skin, salt for the ordinary skin or one 



THE SKIN. 43 

that is inclined to be porous, while soda is always indicated 
in the treatment of moth-patch, pimples, blackheads or an 
oily skin. 

These solutions as the names indicate are made by add- 
ing to say a gallon of water just as much of the ingredient 
as can be dissolved. When a deposit is found on the bottom 
of the jar the solution is said to be saturated. One-half a 
cup of any of these solutions is sufficient for a treatment. 

As soon as the irrigating tank or bag is filled with the 
warm water and the solution added, the next step is to at- 
tach the electric current, and this is done by simply insert- 
ing the small tip from the battery into the projecting arm of 
the cup. 

Then with a bit of soft cotton the lettuce creme may 
be removed from the face and neck, the patient given the 
other electrode to hold, and then after allowing a little of the 
water in the tubing to run into the waste bucket the cup 
may be gently applied to the face until suction is established 
and the work of treatment commenced. 

Should the suction not seem strong enough, one of 
three things may be looked for as the cause. One is that 
the end of the outlet tube in the waste bucket may not be 
covered and hence the cup might be forced away from the 
face by the air, the other is that the inlet tube may be too 
near the face. This can be quickly remedied, and still 
another may be that the tubing itself may be plugged up a 
little. Any one of these difficulties may occur, but will 
cause but a trifling delay. 

The electric connection is in the meantime maintained 
by having the subject hold one electrode in the hand, while 
the other is attached to the cup. If the wall plate is used 
from one to two and sometimes even more milliamperes 



44 



THE SKIN 



may be used. With the small battery from eight to ten and 
sometimes more cells will be found necessary and when 
this battery is used care must always be taken to see that 
the electrode held in the hand is kept thoroughly moistened. 
In all of this preliminary cleansing work the negative 
galvanic current should be used and the effect produced 
is remarkable in that the skin is not only lifted from its 




Massage Cup, 
Showing Electrical Connection. 



old grooves, but cleansed and stimulated and brought into 
the most receptive condition for the application of the 
cremes afterward. The effect is far deeper and does more 
to the true skin than can be accomplished by any other 
mode of treatment. At the same time the effect on the 
subject is most beneficial, resting and benefiting her at the 
same time the complexion is being improved. 

Although electrolytic massage is always considered 
a necessary part of any treatment, still in connection with 
this work it must also be remembered that there are some 



THE SKIN. 45 

skins to which even water itself is an irritant, and any form 
of oil acts almost as an insult and hence. the use of the elec- 
trolytic massage would be impossible. In others the skin is 
made rough for a day or two, but afterward is shown to be 
much improved. In the great majority of cases however the 
method will be found superior to anything else and pro- 
ductive of the most permanent results. 

In the chapter on wrinkles it will be remembered that 
one of the causes of these unwelcome visitors was stated 
as "the flattening of the papillae" in the deeper layers of 
the skin. In this treatment the electric current so strength- 
ens and stimulates them that the appearance of age may 
be effectively retarded, pores long obstructed by black- 
heads may be cleansed, the sebaceous glands aided in their 
work, while coloring matter deposited in the deeper layers 
of the skin may also be sufficiently affected to make bleach- 
ing the flesh a far more simple matter. 

The manner of using the cup is not at all difficult, and 
in Figure 4 the method of applying it to the face is clearly 
shown. In beginning a treatment it is always well to apply 
the cup to the fleshy portion of the cheek before opening 
the shut off. Then hold it there long enough to establish 
a suction, and using the fingers as guides, gently move it 
in direction indicated by the arrow in the illustration, bring- 
ing it back toward the nose and then out again in a sort of 
triangular movement. By observing the general rules for 
massage and using sufficient deliberation in moving the cup 
about, and always remembering to keep the outlet tube 
pointed downward, but little water will be spilled by a 
beginner, while a professional will almost never experience 
any difficulty. The hardest places to treat are the forehead 
and the sides of the nose, but even here with care, there 
will be little real trouble. 




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THE SKIN. 47 

In every instance it must be remembered that the fingers 
simply serve as aids in the work and care must be exerted 
to avoid using undue pressure. When once the suction is 
established, the cup glides easily over the skin, thus good 
work is really retarded by attempting to hold it too firmly. 

The first treatment is always given with warm water, 
and in this may be placed the various substances indicated 
by the conditions found. If the skin is scaly, dry and 
shriveled, a half cup of saturated solution of borax may 
be added to the water and the negative electrode of the gal- 
vanic current attached to the cup, while the subject holds 
the positive in her hand. The galvanic current is indicated 
in every treatment because it alone has the power to change 
the solutions and force them into the deeper tissues. When 
the cup is used with the faradic current a stimulating 
action is the result, and when used without electricity the 
solution simply acts as when applied to the skin in an 
ordinary manner with the exception that the pores absorb 
more readily because of the gentle suction employed. 

If the skin appears lifeless and looks as though it need- 
ed stimulation, a half cup of saturated solution of salt is to 
be added to the water and again the galvanic current may 
be employed. This salt solution has a truly remarkable 
effect on many skins and is often employed by the author 
as the best method of aiding Nature in the work of remedy- 
ing existing defects. 

In the treatment of blackheads, or where the skin 
appears coarse and oily, a half cup of soda solution is used 
and the same electric attachment made. Negative to the 
cup, positive to the hand of the patient. 

For a yellow and discolored skin, or one covered with 
moth patch, the salt solution may be employed if there is 
no oily appearance and the soda solution where oiliness 



48 THE SKIN. 

exists. Thus for every condition found there is a possi- 
bility of reaching into the deeper tissues by means of this 
new method. 

Many operators who have never employed the galvanic 
current hardly know what to expect in the way of a sensa- 
tion, and are agreeably surprised by the pleasant tingling 
produced by this current. A slightly metallic taste is 
usually an accompaniment, but as this is not at all disagree- 
able no one ever complains about it. The effect on the 
nerves is so restful that it is recommended by many physi- 
cians for this reason alone. It must be remembered in giv- 
ing a treatment that if the skin is in very bad condition the 
more cells that are brought into circuit and the longer the 
treatment is continued the more rapid the effect. Of course 
this is a rule that must be used with discretion, and hence 
the following suggestion must be observed. In connection 
with this form of treatment, six cells from the ordinary 
battery may be employed at first, and others brought into 
circuit as required. The sensations described by the subject 
are usually the best guides to the number of cells used as 
the tingling gives way to an unpleasant pricking if too 
much electricity is used. The best equipment includes 
always a milliampere meter, which permits of accurate 
measurement of the current ; not more than two milliamperes 
will be tolerated by the average person, though of course 
a smaller quantity is tried to begin with, and more gradually 
brought into use as may be indicated by the tolerance of 
the patient. 

Following the use of the warm water the manipulation 
with the finger tips commences, and here especial emphasis 
must be placed on the use of the proper ointments, for the 
skin has been so cleansed and stimulated that it is in the 
most receptive condition. For the dry, shriveled skin, 



THE SKIN. 49 

tissue food should be employed. For the dark, discolored 
or freckled skin the whitening creme will be necessary, 
while for blackheads, pimples, large pores or oily skins 
the acne creme is always used. In every instance the neck 
must also be included in the treatment or otherwise the 
difference in color will be too apparent. 

Immediately after this finger massage the bag must be 
filled with cold water to which half a cup of saturated solu- 
tion of alum has been added. Here the faradic current 
may be employed if desired or the negative pole of the 
galvanic current may again be attached to the cup. The 
use of the cold water is especially to be commended about 
the eyes and beneath the chin because of its tendency to 
make the flesh firm. The effect of this last treatment is so 
deliciously invigorating that one enthusiast describes it as 
being just what she should imagine a "mental shower bath 
might be." 

Following this cold water, powder must be dusted over 
the skin before the subject is allowed to go into the air. 
If the skin is unusually sensitive and shows powder readily, 
the Acacia Balm may be applied as a substitute. If the 
skin is unusually oily and thus needs further attention, a 
soft cloth may be immersed in this solution and rubbed 
gently over the surface before applying the vegetable 
powder. 

One dram of aromatic spirits of ammonia, to which 
has been added twenty drops of the oil of lavender is added 
to one quart of water. Two spoonsful of bicarbonate of 
soda may next be added and the lotion well shaken. This 
makes a delightfully refreshing lotion that can be kept 
ready for use on all occasions and as it is not at all expen- 
sive will meet with the requirements of both subject and 
operator. 



CHAPTER VI. 



HOW TO MASSAGE. 



The work of massaging the face is not one that can be 
learned in two or three lessons or by means of reading a 
few lines on the subject. It is a study that takes both time 
and practice. Results will be excellent in all cases that are 
studied and worked upon carefully, but unless the work is 
done in this manner nothing worth while can be accom- 
plished. 

The system of massage advocated in this book is one 
that is based not on the pet ideas of one or two people, 
but on the strong foundation of the requirements of the skin 
as known from the study of physiology and anatomy. Not 
only the muscles have been considered, but the positions 
of the nerves and blood vessels have also been a matter of 
much study and as a consequence the method illustrated, 
when properly carried out, will indeed do much for the 
patient. The illustrations not only indicate from the posi- 
tion of the arrows just what direction the manipulations 
are to take, but also show just when the rotary motion 
is of most benefit, by the presence of the spiral. Most 
of the work should be done with the soft tips of the two 
first fingers excepting when in massage of the cheeks or 
neck or chin the flat fingers of the hand are indicated. 

The most successful masseuse will naturally be she who 
understands and practices her art in a conscientious man- 
ner. When in addition to the real interest she feels in each 
patient she is also sufficiently versed in the study of human 
nature to be able to give each one the most suitable advice, 




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she is doubly fortunate, for she will succeed in instilling a 
sensation of confidence always necessary for the best results. 

In the previous chapter the importance of thoroughly 
cleansing the skin has been 'Sufficiently explained. By fol- 
lowing the directions given and^ remembering the impor- 
tance of using the proper ointment during the manipula- 
tion by the fingers, the preliminary work will be well done. 
In all work one must remember that massage is to the 
face what careful pressing is to a gown. Both processes 
preserve an appearance of freshness and obliterate unsightly 
folds. Any one who is at all observant, and alert to the 
possibilities of improvement, may obtain results by prac- 
ticing the rules given in the care of her own face, and thus 
proving to her own satisfaction the absolute correctness of 
the method. 

In beginning a treatment it is not only unnecessary but 
undesirable to coat the face thickly with creme. If too 
much is applied the fingers slip about instead of manipu- 
lating the flesh properly and no real massage can be given. 
Just enough should be applied to make the work pleasant, 
and more may be added from time to time. 

For a sensitive, dry. scaly skin the tissue food should 
be selected as the best creme for massage purposes and if 
the skin is extremely dry and scaly the red light of the bell 
shown in illustration may be used for forcing it into the 
deeper tissues before the massage is commenced. If, on 
the other hand the skin is inclined to be yellow, or freckles 
or covered with moth patch, the whitening creme should be 
used, while for large pores, a coarse skin, oiliness, black- 
heads or pimples the acne creme should be employed. 

The creme should never be taken from the jar by the 







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54 THE SKIN. 

fingers but should either be dipped out by means of an 
ivory spatula and then applied to a bit of cotton to be 
rubbed on to the face, or a fresh ivory spatula may be 
utilized for each person, always taking out enough creme 
to do the massage. By observing this rule and by care- 
fully cleansing and disinfecting the hands, both after a mas- 
sage and before giving one, there will be no danger of 
carrying germs by carelessness on the part of the operator. 
Too much importance cannot be placed on careful adher- 
ence to these rules as in this way only can thoroughly honest 
work be done. 

The pressure exerted by the fingers should be firm 
though gentle and in no case should undue strength be 
exerted as the result would be to bruise the deeper tissues. 
The motion of the fingers must be leisurely. No good 
massage can be performed in a hurried or jerky manner. 
As a guide to the length of time necessary for the aver- 
age case it may be stated that at least forty minutes will 
be required for each treatment, allowing for the use of the 
electrolytic massage, both before and after manipulation. 
Work done by using hot towels in connection with the 
finger manipulation can of course be given in less time, 
but the entire practice is so wrong from every standpoint 
that it is to be hoped no really good operator will consider 
attempting it 

In every face some portions win De far more deeply 
lined than others, and of course in these sections more work 
must be done in order to make the wrinkles as dim as pos- 
sible, while advice should be given in regard to any habits 
that might induce the presence of these lines, for often 
only a few reminders will suffice to cure the subject of 
carelessness in these matters. 




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After applying the creme used it should be rubbed into 
the skin of the face and neck by means of a gently rotary 
motion and after a little of this preliminary stroking the 
real massage may be commenced by working first of all 
upon the forehead according to the directions given. 

The lines on the forehead are generally rather obstinate 
to erase, as in the majority of people the habit of raising 
the brows continually while conversing or of squinting the 
eyes' while attempting to do fine work has made the straight 
creases between the eyes and the horizontal folds extremely 
deep. In illustration (Figure 5) the proper motion for 
erasing the long lines is seen, the tips of the two first 
fingers are used for this purpose, pressing gently but firmly 
on the flesh. The fingers of one hand move down toward 
the brow, while those of the other move toward the fore- 
head, thus passing and repassing continually while the proc- 
ess is continued. After a few moments' work the effect 
will be seen to be remarkably pleasing, as even the deepest 
lines yield to the gentle pressure. 

The vertical lines between the eyes are best rubbed as 
indicated in Figure 2, in rotary motion made by pressing 
the fingers firmly upon the flesh and then describing small 
circles. In this work only the fingers of one hand may be 
used for the massage, though the two first fingers of the 
other may be used for keeping the flesh in place. When 
these lines show a tendency to spring back into place almost 
immediately, it is well to smooth out the forehead until it 
is free from lines and then paste bits of court plaster across 
the lines in such a manner that they cannot form again. 
This little precaution is extremely valuable and when ap- 
plied during the first part of the treatment often assists in 
the work of making the face appear better. The fact that 




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THE SKIN. 



the court plaster prevents contraction of the brows reminds 
the patient that the habit may be broken by the exercise 
of a little effort. 

The lines radiating from the eyes are apt to form the 
earliest of any, and often the deepest and most difficult 
are indicative of nothing more than an extremely merry 
disposition. Women who have much trouble, physical or 
mental, are also apt to have deep lines, while those with 
weak eyes are especially afflicted. In Figure 6 the correct 
motion for pressing out these lines is indicated. The flesh is 
held between the thumb and forefinger of the one hand 
firmly while the two first fingers of the other are used to 
rub down across the lines, and in a gentle rotary motion 
beneath the eyes. Figure 3 shows the manner in which 
the eyelid is to be rubbed, and Figure 2 indicates the rotary 
motion used directly below the eye. This work about the 
eyes is most particular and must be carried on very gently 
indeed. Where there is much bagginess and puffiness be- 
neath the eyes there should be a great deal of the cold 
water used in the water massage treatment, and the rotary 
motion should be very light. The massage from the corners 
of the eye may be continued up to the temples, rubbing as 
indicated in Figure 2. 

The nose may be massaged as indicated in Figures 6 
and 8. In this work the motion may be continued down 
from the space between the eyes across the tiny lines that 
sometimes form each side of the nose. From the bridge 
down to each nostril the pressure may be firm or light, 
according to the results desired. People with thick nostrils 
generally desire to have them made as unobtrusive as pos- 
sible, and the work of massage will accomplish a great deal 
in so affecting the cartilages that the thick appearance may 
be effectively subdued. 




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60 THE SKIN. 

The cheeks, as indicated by the arrows, are best treated 
by rubbing in the manner shown from the center of the 
face outward. For this work it is well to use the flat portion 
of the hands and in rubbing, watch carefully to see that no 
new lines are rubbed in around the eyes or temples. The 
deep lines running from the corners of the mouth to the 
nose may be rapidly rubbed out by this method. In Figure 
7 the arrows indicate that attention should also be directed 
to rubbing the flesh below and directly in front of the ears 
also, as small lines forming there soon develop into per- 
fect furrows unless promptly discouraged. 

The mouth is peculiarly difficult to manipulate, both be- 
cause the lines about it are apt to be sharply defined, and 
also because the fingers are apt to slip away from the yield- 
ing surface. In Figure 8 the best method is illustrated. 
The forefinger is placed in the center of the circle and the 
thumb and second finger are placed at the corner of the 
mouth and then drawn slowly toward the center. This may 
need to be repeated a number of times before the exact mo- 
tion is acquired, as the flesh is so flexible. The lines are 
little half circles shaped thus ( ) at the corners of the 
mouth and are best obliterated by rubbing from the mouth 
in the direction indicated by the arrows. 

The chin is massaged as shown in Figure 9, the circular 
motion may be done by the two first fingers or else the 
chin may be grasped firmly in the hand and a twisting mo- 
tion from side to side given. The flabby flesh or baggy 
portion directly beneath the chin may be made much less 
conspicuous by using the proper motions very frequently. 
As indicated, the stroking is to be done from the center 
down toward the neck. The flesh will become firm and 
solid and the tendency to flabbiness will disappear gradually 
under treatment. 




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62 THE SKIN. 

The neck may be rubbed, as shown in Figure 9, by 
using the four fingers held flatly on the flesh and drawing 
them back from the center always. Never attempt to rub 
the neck up and down at the sides, but always in the same 
direction toward the back. The deep lines that form,Jback 
of the ears and run toward the front may be easily kept 
in suggestion by directing much attention to this spot in 
the use of the water massage. When the neck is at all 
discolored, as after the use of high or stiff collars, the mas- 
sage may be given with the whitening creme, thus accom- 
plishing two things at the same time in the way of bleach- 
ing and removing lines. 

Following the massage the cold water may be 
employed, always remembering the hints given before in 
regard to the tonic action of the liquid when used beneath 
the eyes and under a chin that shows a tendency to become 
flabby. The addition of alum to this water cannot be too 
strongly commended as it does much to restore firmness to 
the skin. In the use of this treatment there need never be 
any fear of injuring or stretching the skin in any manner. 
Continued use only tends to keep the flesh pliable, firm and 
fresh in coloring as well as in most healthy condition. In 
fact the flabbiest skin will be wonderfully improved by 
commencing this work even after years of neglect have 
tended to make the task appear hopeless. Of course, how- 
ever, in this, as in everything else, one must remember that 
the treatments must be given at regular intervals, and the 
care at home must be what common sense demands, to 
achieve the most pleasing and speedy results, though if only 
an occasional treatment can be taken the opportunity should 
be grasped, for in any event improvement is sure to follow. 

•If the face massaged is that of an elderly woman, or if 



THE SKIN. 63 

the skin seems poorly nourished, the use of electricity is 
advisable in place of the mallets. For this purpose the 
current may be used immediately after the supply of cold 
water has been exhausted, and may be administered through 
the finger-tips as illustrated. The skin should be powdered 
as usual after the treatment is finished. Very severe cases 
where the lines are unusually deep and the skin exception- 
ally dry in appearance, should be treated daily if possible, 
and a sensible diet, with sufficient exercise, recommended. 
Improvement is absolutely certain, though, of course, it will 
not be as rapid in older women as in younger ones. The 
necessary point is persistence, and if the woman troubled 
with lines is also endowed with a will, the work will as- 
suredly do all that can be wished. 



CHAPTER VII. 



BLACKHEADS, PIMPLES AND MILIA. 

One of the most difficult tasks assigned to the masseuse 
is the treatment of the loathsome pimple and blackhead 
cases so extremely common among young people of both 
sexes. The demand for this work has never been so great 
as it is at the present time, for it is only within the past few 
years that people have realized that affections of this kind 
could be termed skin diseases rather than blood disorders. 
Still, notwithstanding the interest manifested in the work, 
comparatively few of the operators even in the largest 
cities either understand or practice the art of improving 
skins so afflicted. 

In fact, even well-informed parents so far forget their 
knowledge of physiology as to declare the blackheads should 
not be removed, but allowed to "run their course." Their 
awakening has been indeed bitter, for ordinarily the result 
of neglect in these cases terminates in most repulsive erup- 
tions of pimples filled with pus, causing the skin to appear 
as though it were dotted with festered lumps. In many in- 
stances the flesh has become permanently thickened, and 
the complexion made dull and muddy by this failure to take 
the proper treatments. 

The great secret of success in this work is in the 
exercise of constant and untiring care. If all cases of black- 
heads were taken in hand immediately, and persistently 
worked upon until cured, there would be more good com- 
plexions to be seen, while obstinate disorders of this kind 
would indeed be rare. 




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The term "blackhead" really is not one used by those 
who wish to be correct, but it is so descriptive that it has 
become commonly accepted and is universally known. The 
text-books refer to these obstructions as comedones, while 
many people still persist in declaring that "flesh worm" 
describes them perfectly, at the same time insisting that the 
pests are really alive. In point of fact, whatever may be 
the term used, these much-discussed and troublesome inva- 
ders are nothing but fat, white plugs, formed by accumula- 
tions of the sebaceous secretions that persist in blocking up 
the pores and thus preventing, the glands from perform- 
ing their functions. 

Although at one time supposed to indicate uncleanli- 
ness blackheads are so frequently found that the old idea 
has given way to another in which all authorities declare 
that they are caused by some peculiar local condition and do 
not necessarily indicate anything beyond this fact, though 
functional disturbances and lack of sufficient nutrition may 
be cited as disturbing elements. However, the majority of 
cases are found in young and robust people who are other- 
wise models of physical excellence, so this latest idea seems 
to be based upon sound reason. 

There are many varieties of these black plagues, all of 
them requiring much attention and earnest work before 
they can be persuaded to leave. Some are fine and so tightly 
embedded in the skin that it seems impossible to dislodge 
them. Others are large and coarse, and even protrude above 
the surface, leaving deep pits in the skin where removed, 
thus making much massage necessary in these spots. Still 
others seem to possess a tendency to fester, and upon pres- 
sure, not only the blackhead but pus comes out at the same 
time. All of them require the same treatment, for if the 



THE SKIN. 67 

pores are to be made to appear as they should and the 
glands are to perform their natural functions, these obstruc- 
tions must be removed and the applications of ointments 
made that will assist in the process of reducing the size of 
the enlarged pores by restoring tone to the glands. 

In removing blackheads care must be taken not to 
bruise the tissue, and the habit of squeezing the skin be- 
tween the thumb nails, using a watch key or any instrument 
not especially intended for this purpose is to be strongly 
condemned. The use of the face steamer before the work 
of pressing these blackheads out, is also injurious, as the 
fat is extracted from the tissues by means of the intense 
heat and this increases the tendency of the skin to scar. The 
comedone extractor is provided with a tiny scoop at one 
end and is made with either a needle point or a knife at the 
other. This instrument produces the best effect, for it not 
only removes the blackheads easily by means of gentle pres- 
sure, but it also marks the skin but little, and never perma- 
nently scars or bruises the flesh. 

HOW TO PROCEED IN THE BLACKHEAD AND PIMPLE WORK. 

First of all, the face should be cleansed by anointing it 
with lettuce creme, and using the electrolytic massage and 
very warm water with soda solution. All superfluous creme 
may now be removed from the skin by the use of some ab- 
sorbent cotton, and the flesh well washed with a one per 
cent solution of formalin, using for this purpose a soft cloth 
or some of the cotton. The hands, of course, have been 
scrubbed with soap and water and immersed in an antiseptic 
solution, and the instruments cleansed as directed in the 
chapter on sterilizing. The tiny scoop on the end of the 
comedone extractor is now used to press down at the side 



68 THE SKIN. 

of each blackhead and gentle pressure exerted in order to 
force it out. If it seems unusually obstinate it is best to 
pass on to the next one or else use the needle point for 
puncturing the little fold that sometimes forms over the 
black dots. It is best not to remove too many at one time, 
and not to irritate the flesh very much at first, as the skin is 
apt to be extremely tender for a time. Pressure about the 
nose or on the forehead is rather painful and much care 
should be exerted when working on these sections of the 
skin. In Figure n the use of the comedone extractor 



The Comedone Extractor. 

and method of removing blackheads is nicely depicted. After 
all that will come out easily have been removed, the acne 
creme is applied, and massage with the finger tips follows, 
pressing with the balls of the fingers, especially upon the 
parts that have been treated. This treatment is especially 
directed toward improving the nutrition of the flesh and is 
a most important part of the treatment. After about fifteen 
minutes' work the bag may again be filled with warm water 
and used as before and the treatment finished by using the 
cold water. 

The work of treating pimples is to many so repulsive 
that they refuse to even consider it. However, when one 
considers the actual benefit not only physically but mentally 
that will come to the one who is properly treated, this re- 
pugnance will usually vanish, and instead a genuine interest 
in the work will be manifested. 

There are so many varieties of pimples that the very 




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70 THE SKIN. 

list of names would be confusing, hence in speaking of them 
they will all be classed under the very general title so com- 
monly used. Those found either in connection with black- 
heads or alone are invariably filled with pus and look red 
and angry. They will sometimes appear in certain parts of 
the face, and after remaining several weeks will vanish, 
only to be replaced in a week or so with another pimple in 
precisely the same place and quite as obstinate as the first 
one. Other pimples will appear and itch so intolerably that 
it seems absolutely necessary to scratch the skin. The 
finger-nails thus convey the infection from one part of the 
skin to another and as a consequence the entire face be- 
comes broken out in a disgusting eruption. In all cases, 
the only way of permanently removing and curing these 
pustules is by observing the following instructions : 

The skin should be cleansed and prepared as directed 
in the work on blackheads with, of course, special precau- 
tions in the preparation of the hands and in the sterilization 
of instruments. The comedone extractor should then be 
brought into play for the purpose of entering each pustule, 
using the curette for gentle pressure in the work of ex- 
pressing the contents. 

If there seems to be an obstinate cheesy substance pres- 
ent that does not yield to this pressure, the use of the neg- 
ative galvanic electrode in the shape of a sharp needle is 
indicated and this instrument should be introduced into the 
cavity and moved from place to place, using the current as 
strong as it can be borne with comfort until the contents of 
the pimple are sufficiently dissolved to yield to the pressure. 

As many pimples as possible should be 6pened in this 
manner, covering portion treated with a bit of cotton soaked 
in peroxide the moment the needle is withdrawn. When 



THE SKIN. 71 

the pimples seem deep and painful and yet nothing can be 
expressed even after the needle has been inserted, several 
applications will be found necessary to bring about the de- 
sired result. Old. obstinate cases of recurring pimples are 
always benefited and in time banished by this use of the 
needle. 

After as much of the surface has been treated as either 
time permits, or as judgment decides feasible, the face 
should be well coated with acne creme and the blue light 
used for fifteen or twenty minutes for forcing the creme 
into the deeper tissues, the fingers of the one hand, of 
course, all the time being employed in a gently rotary mo- 
tion. This done, the ball electrode must be covered with 
absorbent cotton that has been thoroughly moistened, con- 
nected with the positive current and used with deep pressure 
over all the portions treated with the needle. This treat- 
ment has an excellent effect in reducing the inflammation 
thus taking away the excessive redness so usually seen after 
such treatments. The finger massage finishes the treatment 
and then the face may be powdered as usual. Too much 
emphasis cannot be placed on the importance of this work 
just described, for whenever these directions are followed 
good results must ensue. Treatments for obstinate pimples 
should be given at least three times a week and in addition 
the subject must be instructed to bathe the body thoroughly 
once a day, the face for ten minutes with olive soap and 
hot water each night, rub in the acne creme and take a 
blood pill before retiring, limit the diet to plainest articles, 
apply the antiseptic lotion each morning, and if the con- 
dition generally is not good, in addition take a tonic recom- 
mended by a physician. 

The results of acne treatment in the hands of a com- 



72 



THE SKIN 



petent operator are nine times out of ten far more satis- 
factory than those obtained by a specialist, simply because of 
the amount of time consumed in giving the treatment and 
the effort spent in massage, use of the ball electrode, etc. 
No matter how bad the case, if these rules are followed im- 
provement will positively result. 

When the eruptions are very obstinate the needle may 
have to be used a number of times. In no instance, how- 
ever, need there be any dread of scarring the skin if care 
is taken to use but little pressure with the comedone ex- 
tractor, and just enough current when the electric needle 
is employed. All authorities are now united in declaring 
that blackheads must be removed and the contents of the 
pimples expressed, so if the work is done in such a manner 
that the surrounding flesh is not bruised, and if the after 
treatments are faithfully carried out, in a very few weeks 
the skin will show no signs of the operation beyond a 
marked improvement. The danger of scarring is not to be 
feared because if these directions are followed no such re- 
sult can possibly ensue, though many times this same needle 
may be used to remove the pit left by an old pimple or by 
one improperly treated. This process is explained in the 
section on electricity. 

Small pimples in which the pus seems upon the point of 
bursting out Should all be opened and the skin covered with 
the sheets of cotton soaked in the dioxide, after pressure 
has removed all of the contents that will come out readily. 

In many instances, where the face is covered with pim- 
ples and treatments have to be continued for some time, 
the smaller ones that have not been touched will gradually 
grow more and more minute and will finally disappear. 
When this tendency exists, it is, of course, unnecessary to 
open them. 




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Of course, many instances have been quoted where 
people have been scarred for life. This has been where the 
instruments have not been properly sterilized or where the 
patient, unable to keep her fingers away, has so irritated 
the flesh that the inflammation has persisted for a long time. 
Pimples opened in the usual manner at home by the aid of 
a cambric needle, or any other instrument that happens to 
be about, usually do leave a dull purple scar that takes 
months to vanish and in some instances may remain perma- 
nently. Professionals are so careful in their work and in 
the use of nourishing ointment on the skin, that after the 
course of a few days no obtrusive mark is visible, and in 
two weeks or so the skin is generally smooth, as ea-n be seen 
in illustration. 

The results of these treatments are invariably all that 
can be expected when the work is properly done and there 
is no grave disorder of the system. Even where there are 
other complications the use of these antiseptic preparations 
on the skin will positively improve it greatly. Ordinarily 
the statement may be made that every case with no draw- 
backs in the way of physical disturbances of any impor- 
tance will be permanently cured. Even after years of neg- 
lect the greatest of changes can be made in skins that seem 
absolutely hopeless by going at the work systematically. In 
those who are young, and where the disease has not become 
chronic, improvement is often most marvelous. 

Unfortunately for both the masseuse and the patient, 
they seklom meet until every other method recommended 
by every authority has been tried. This leaves the masseuse 
not only with much work to do, but also with more to undo, 
for frequently the efforts made to abolish the pimples have 
been the very things that should, under no circumstances, 
be attempted. 



THE SKIN. 75 

The masseuse who achieves the best results will be she 
who plainly and honestly explains to her patients the method 
she uses and who makes them realize that not only her 
efforts but theirs are necessary if the work is to be success- 
ful. She must impress upon them that these afflictions 
have in a manner become "habits of the skin," and that like 
other habits, time will be required to correct them. She 
can make no promises as to the length of time required, 
for, as in everything else, it is impossible to definitely 
promise relief by a certain date, owing to the uncertainty in 
regard to the manner in which the skin takes the treatment. 
In some instances the improvement in two or three weeks 
is wonderful ; others require a month before much of a 
change can be seen, and all skins require treatments at in- 
tervals for some time, as there is often manifested a ten- 
dency to relapse unless the work is continued long enough. 

In small towns it is often impossible to find a good 
masseuse, so in this event it will be necessary for the patient 
to do the work at home. Of course, the progress is slower 
than when the treatments can be taken from a professional, 
as it is nearly impossible to obtain the deep massage except 
when given by another person. Upon this one thing much 
hinges, that when there is even the slightest chance to ob- 
tain treatments they should be taken in order to obtain the 
effect of the finger massage on the skin. Extremely diffi- 
cult cases need at least one hour per day for treatment, 
lighter cases require, say, two treatments a week or work 
performed every other day, while ordinary cases may be 
treated every fourth day until much improvement is. mani- 
fested. After that time once a week will be sufficient. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

DIET AND DIRECTIONS FOR HOME WORK IX CURE OF 
BLACKHEADS. 

When work must be done at home without other assist- 
ance it must be performed systematically if the results are 
to be pleasing. One of the most important requisites is in 
the use of a good cleansing agent, for even after the pores 
have been freed of the plugs, there is often a tendency to- 
ward the formation of new ones. The ointments are twice 
as efficacious when readily absorbed, hence the cleansing 
agent must be used frequently and thoroughly to further 
this end. If the skin is dry, sensitive and easily irritated, 
it must be cleansed each night with soap practically neutral 
in reaction. If on the other hand it is not only speckled 
with blackheads, but appears to be oily and greasy, the tinc- 
ture of green soap should be used. This is made as fol- 
lows : 

Tincture of green soap : 

Green soap 45 

Alcohol 4 § 

Ether 4 § 

Dissolve the green soap in the liquids and use by pour- 
ing a little into hot water or directly upon the washcloth 
and then immersing it in water. The cleansing must be 
religiously done each night and the special creme (acne is 
the best) should be rubbed in Well with the tips of the fin- 
gers after this process. In the morning the face may be 
washed in cold water and the antiseptic lotion applied with 



Til E SKIN. 77 

a sponge. If the skin seems unduly irritated by this, the 
lotion may he diluted by pouring a little into a bottle con- 
taining some water. Then oraduallv the full strength may 
he used. If the skin appears badly, and the patient feels 
embarrassed about going out in public the acne creme may 
he applied and rubbed in well and the vegetable powder 
dusted over it as a sort of disguise 

This work must be done every night, of course, even 
when under treatment by a professional, and it will be 
noticed that the rubbing recommended has a remarkably 
good effect on these obstinate little eruptions, for very fre- 
quently, by applying a little acne creme and then using the 
ball of the finger for massage with deep pressure, the pim- 
ple that is just appearing will be persuaded to depart. 

The use of the comedone extractor may be continued as 
described, and at night before retiring after washing the 
skin well with the warm water the little scoop may be used 
by pressing gently at the side of each blackhead and en- 
deavoring to remove as many as possible without producing 
much inflammation. The automatic massage may be easily 
used after a little practice and will be valuable in making 
the improvement more rapid. 

The diet is most important and should be closely 
watched. One of the greatest skin specialists who uses this 
method of treating his patients and who especially advo- 
cates the comedone extractor and the deep massage is also 
most anxious in regard to the diet adopted. The most diffi- 
cult cases are placed upon a diet of bread and milk without 
too much bread. Little meat is allowed excepting where 
the patient is deficient in blood, and the following articles of 
food are absolutely denied in all cases : Pastries, cakes, 
rich gravies, salads, liquor, spiced food, fried foods of any 



78 THE SKIN. 

description and all sweets. The articles that seem most dif- 
ficult to abstain from using are the sweets and pastries. By 
urging and insisting, fruit may be substituted for these 
dainties and the effect has been to so change the appetite 
that the forbidden foods have not been desired. 

Constipation must positively be abolished ; the woman or 
girl who expects to look well while in the possession of a 
torpid liver may as well make up her mind to be disappoint- 
ed. In addition to the use of laxatives it is well to regulate 
the bowels by eating as much fruit as possible and also by 
physical culture exercises, especially those in which these 
organs may be affected. Drinking a glass or so of warm 
water a half hour before meals will also be most effective, 
especially when followed by eating foods that are properly 
prepared. 

Bathing is most important, and a very warm bath should 
be taken at least three times a week, with a sponge once a 
day over every portion of the body so that all of the pores 
may have an opportunity for excreting the effete matter 
and absorbing the materials applied. When the skin is ex- 
tremely oily, the bath made by adding rock salt and 
ammonia to the water may be used with good effect. The 
liquid sulphur bath, also mentioned in the chapter on bath- 
ing, will be found extremely beneficial in cases of this de- 
scription. Care must be taken, however, in using this bath 
to wash the face with clear water both before entering and 
before leaving the bath. 

Electricity is equally essential and should be employed 
as suggested. In case the patient has obstinate pimples that 
have recurred constantly for months and years after they 
have been opened and the pus extracted, the cavities should 
be entered with the needle attached to the negative pole. 



THE SKIN, 



79 



This should be done after the pus has been removed ex- 
cepting in instances where it seems impossible to press out 
the cheesy matter. In this event, the needle may be inserted 
several times from different directions until the matter be- 
comes sufficiently affected by the heat to become softer and 
press out easily. The positive needle is not indicated in this 
treatment, as the resulting scar is apt to be permanent. 
After the pimples have disappeared fairly well, and there is 
a desire to improve the nutrition of the skin, the bipolar 
method may be used as illustrated and the lotion forced into 
the skin using a treatment that lasts for about fifteen minutes. 

The masseuse will usually obtain better results in the 
treatment of blackhead and pimple cases than the physician, 
because she spends more time upon the after treatment. 
All specialists insist upon the importance of massage as of 
aid in restoring tone to the skin, but they object to the labor 
involved, and after opening the pimples and removing the 
blackheads dismiss the patient with either no massage, or 
else so little that the effect is not worth mentioning. In 
this work every detail must be considered and every aid 
suggested intelligently employed, if the desired effect is to 
be obtained. 

The suggestions outlined here may seem to the casual 
reader a bit difficult. In reality they are most simple and 
the refined and sensitive woman who realizes the importance 
of possessing a clear and attractive skin will most assuredly 
not object to the amount of labor involved; and, when one 
contrasts the repulsive and loathsome condition that results 
from eruptions of this kind made even worse by the pres- 
ence of innumerable blackheads, no task will seem too ardu- 
ous if relief can be obtained. The presence of some dis- 
gusting disease is invariably thought by the multitude to be 



80 THE SKIN. 

indicated by an eruption of any kind, while the semblance of 
uncleanliness is so marked that it is impossible to imagine 
a person so afflicted as really being clean. Actual practice 
so quickly proves that it is unnecessary to possess these 
pests, that any one who is sufficiently ambitious will devote 
every spare moment to the work, sparing no effort to rid 
herself of the unsightly blemishes which not only disfigure 
her face but also disturb her peace of mind. 

MILIA. 

An affliction almost as discouraging as blackheads, al- 
though it possesses the distinction of being less repulsive, 
is that known by the scientists as "milia^ from the word 
"milium" meaning millet seed. This name so aptly de- 
scribes the appearance of the skin that it is indeed happily 
chosen for the tiny, hard lumps sometimes yellow and again 
pearly white, varying in size from a small protuberance to 
one the size of a large pin head, resemble more nearly than 
anything else, the appearance of seed scattered over the 
face. Of course, these same scientific people who have be- 
stowed this appropriate name have spent much time in 
attempting to find out why this condition exists, and have 
finally ended by deciding that it is purely a local affair, hav- 
ing little or nothing to do with the condition of the body. 

As internal medication seems powerless to affect this 
condition, it is well to consider the best means of applying 
the external treatment for each tiny seed, whether em- 
bedded in the skin or projecting above the surface is well 
protected by a singularly tenacious little cap or sac that 
must be opened by some' sharp instrument such as a large 
needle or the sharp end of the comedone extractor. The 
lumps must then be pressed out and the cavity thoroughly 



THE SKIN. 81 

cleansed to do away with the chance of any recurrence and 
the cure will then be permanent. 

The face is prepared as in the treatment for black- 
heads, by the application of a cleansing creme, and the use 
of warm water and the electrolytic massage. It is then 
carefully washed again with a one per cent solution of 
formalin, and the sac opened by a sharp instrument. The 
small cheesy lump is then teased out, and the cavity entered 
by a sterilized needle, dipped into a forty per cent solution 
of chromic acid. The sac is often surprisingly difficult to 
penetrate, and even after it is opened the milium sometimes 
remains obstinately attached to the upper surface, requiring 
the expenditure of much skill in order to dislodge it with- 
out injury to the skin. Naturally some discretion is to be 
exerted in this w 7 ork, as it is often unwise to remove many 
of the milia at a time. Experience alone can teach how to 
judge each individual case according to its peculiarities, how 
much pressure to exert in coaxing these intruders to depart, 
and how many to remove at a treatment. Care must be 
taken to avoid any chance of a local inflammation and sensi- 
tive skins will be difficult to work upon long at a time. 

In some cases the face will become covered with tiny 
red scabs, after the milia are removed. These scabs must 
not be removed but allowed to drv and drop off, thus mak- 
ing the danger of scarring much less. In others, the milia 
are so small that the use of the needle or knife seems almost 
impossible. In cases of this description the finest iridio 
platinum needle attached to the negative pole of the gal- 
vanic battery may be inserted in each little lump for a mo- 
ment, and as a rule the effect is all that can be desired. In 
very obstinate cases the use of the electric roller is a very 
excellent supplement to the knife or curette, and treatments 
may be given every other day. 



82 THE SKIN. 

After treatment consists in using the electrolytic mas- 
sage with warm water as before, followed by the use of the 
deep finger massage given the same as in the blackhead 
treatment. The same ointment, acne creme, is 'employed 
with very good success, as the astringent properties are so 
marked that the places operated upon seem to heal more 
rapidly when thus worked upon. 

In this work as in blackheads the chief requisite is in 
persistence in a faithful endeavor to follow directions, not 
occasionally, but as specified. In addition to the local work 
it is well to bathe frequently in warm water and to exercise 
methodically. 



CHAPTER IX. 

TREATING CHLOASMA OR MOTH-PATCH, BY MEANS OF THE 
INSTANTANEOUS BLEACHING ECORCHEMENT PROCESS. 

The appearance of yellowish brown patches upon the 
face has not only caused much mortification but also the 
most strenuous efforts to banish. These so-called moth 
or liver patches not only appear upon the cheeks, forehead, 
upper part of the lip and neck, but are also found on various 
sections of the body, and although for many years said to 
have been caused by either a nervous or functional disease, 
they very frequently appear without the least apparent rea- 
son and remain quite as obstinately as those that are caused 
by disease. Many patches of this description either precede 
or accompany physical disturbances, also remaining long 
after the cause has disappeared, thus making local treat- 
ment a necessity, if relief is to be obtained. 

The coloring matter is, as explained in a previous chap- 
ter, situated in the rete malpighii and also to some extent 
in the corium, both deeper layers of the skin. The applica- 
tions of powerful remedies for the purpose of bleaching the 
skin have, instead of curing the trouble, augmented it by 
causing an inflammation which has resulted in an increased 
deposit of pigment at this spot, lasting during the lifetime 
and impossible to remove. 

If the application of such remedies had been continued 
only until redness appeared no such trouble would have 
occurred. Hence in treating any such difficulty care must 
be taken to warn the patients against a too vigorous use of 
a remedy in an effort to become beautiful immediately. 



84 THE SKIN. 

In all external treatment of course, the object is to have 
the material employed absorbed as quickly as possible and 
to have it so well prepared that the work shall be directed 
particularly to the affected portions. To assist in this 
process of absorption it is necessary that the skin should be 
in the most cleanly condition and this is only possible when 
baths are taken frequently and the pores are kept free from 
obstructions. The average person has about fourteen square 
feet of skin to keep clean, and in this surface are approxi- 
mately 2,000,000 sweat glands and 500,000 oil or sebaceous 
glands to assist in throwing off the waste matter. The 
daily bath will thus be seen to be a common necessity if the 
skin is to be kept as it should be. 

In addition to this daily bath, it will also be necessary 
to prescribe some method of aiding the patient to thorough- 
ly cleanse the system of all impurities, and for this purpose 
it is well to advise the use of copious draughts of water be- 
tween the meals. Eight and ten glasses are none too many 
to be taken during the day, with more at night and in the 
morning before breakfast a good mineral water may also 
be taken with excellent effect. In connection with this 
work it will also be well to flush the colon at least twice 
a week by means of injections of hot water, for in addi- 
tion to the cleansing of this important reservoir, the use of 
the water stimulates the functions and nerve centres of all 
the organs in contact with the colon. 

In every case in which the subject admits the presence 
of constipation, this procedure is a necessity, while in the 
cases in which no such admission is made the treatment will 
at least do no harm and should therefore be advocated 
wherever chloasma is found. In fact the mere statement 
that no constipation exists is no sign at all that impacted 




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86 THE SKIN. 

foeces may not be found, for in some of the most obstinate 
cases of costiveness such statements are not uncommon. 

It must be remembered that the colon is not only a 
reservoir but is also largely endowed with absorbent glands, 
and that these glands are capable of taking up and carry- 
ing through the circulation, the poisons contained in it. 
These properties of the colon can also be used for nourish- 
ing the system and so it is often called the "second stomach/' 
as in cases in which people with cancer of this organ 
have been unable to take any food by way of the mouth 
sometimes not being able even to swallow a drop of water, 
they may be kept alive for days and even weeks by food 
properly prepared and injected into the colon. 

So, when one finds a subject with dull eyes, yellow 
skin and furred tongue, this cleansing treatment of the 
colon must be insisted upon, for in this way alone can one 
avoid having poison from the fecal matter absorbed from 
the colon and carried to the skin, lungs and in fact every 
organ of the body. 

Flushing the colon, however, differs from the ordinary 
injection, inasmuch as the object is to carry the heated 
water far up into this reservoir and have it retained as long 
as possible in order to thoroughly soften any of the harden- 
ed fecal masses and thus cause a cleansing of the whole 
canal. When this result cannot be accomplished by the 
means of the ordinary rectal tube, the long flexible tubes 
should be obtained and in this manner the water may be 
carried directly into the sigmoid flexure. Several trials 
may be necessary before this process can be done success- 
fully, but as the results will show a marked improvement 
almost immediately after such treatments in both health 
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88 THE SKIN. 

to continue her efforts until she understands the best 
method of performing this task. 

For local treatments of the skin not only the ordinary 
massage but also the instantaneous bleaching process and 
also the ecorchement system may be used. 

Instantaneous bleaching, as it is called, consists in 
making the skin from four to six shades lighter in one 
treatment by means of this process. First of all the lettuce 
creme is applied and allowed to remain for a few moments. 
It is then removed by means of soft bits of cloth or cotton, 
and the skin thoroughly washed with a strong solution of 
soda in order to remove any signs of oil. A paste is then 
made by adding to the refining powder some dioxide of 
hydrogen, and this is spread over the face and neck and 
allowed to dry. If one wishes the arms bleached or w T ishes 
to make the shoulders more presentable for an evening party, 
the process may be continued over all of the surface. As the 
paste drys a pricking burning sensation sometimes is felt. 
This is usually due to the action of the dioxide, and in very 
sensitive subjects has been known to make the face appear 
red and blotchy for a day or so though afterward it looks 
much better. However, it is well to ascertain the condition 
of the skin before applying the paste and then if it is very 
sensitive dilute the dioxide with witch hazel before apply- 
ing it. 

After the paste has become thoroughly dry it may be 
removed by washing the skin with luke-warm water, and 
then if the patches on the face or neck are very deep, the 
bleaching lotion may be forced into the skin by means of 
the negative electrode, as shown in Figure 14 con- 
tinuing the process until the skin is thoroughly reddened. 
This process, it should be understood, is only used for moth 




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90 THE SKIN. 

patch or chloasma, and would not be used in the ordinary 
treatment at all. Whether the lotion is used or not, however, 
the next step is the same and this consists, as shown in 
Figure 15 of forcing the whitening creme ' into the 
deeper tissues by means of the use of the red light of the 
radio bell. The eyes are better covered with cotton 
moistened in cold water or witch hazel, while this work is 
going on, in order to avoid any irritation. 

After the skin has been sufficiently absorbed, finger 
massage may be given in the usual way and the treatment 
finished by applying a protecting coat of the vegetable 
powder. This process may be repeated several times a 
week with the greatest of benefit, though if the use of the 
paste seems at any time too severe, the use of the regular 
massage and a prolonged treatment with the negative elec- 
trode and the bleaching lotion may be effective. 

The ecorchement system is a popular and effective 
method in removing the cuticle and thus refining the skin. 
Many people profess to believe that this process is a remedy 
for all the ills of the skin. Properly used, however, it is 
better after other treatments have been given for some time. 
As this particular form of treatment is not at all dangerous 
nor painful to the subject, it naturally has received a great 
deal of attention as well as commendation and may be 
recommended for the following troubles : — for refining the 
skin after a severe case of blackheads and pimples, for 
whitening and removing most of the wrinkles in ordinary 
skins, for making the skin wonderfully better in cases of 
obstinate chloasma, in fact, practically removing every 
vestige of this trouble and finally of most remarkable benefit 
in the treatment of eczema for which indeed it is almost a 
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92 THE SKIN. 

In the subject illustrated for bleaching treatments after 
a prolonged use of the negative electrode and massage, the 
ecorchement system was finally tried with best results. In 
Figure 16 the manner of removing the old skin and the 
mask is shown, while in Figure 17 the skin after treatment 
is exhibited. 

The process is performed as follows: — Each day for 
from five to seven days, a searching, antiseptic ointment is 
rubbed onto the skin and forced in with the blue light. 
The , applications are made with cotton to prevent staining 
the finger-tips of the operator. After a few days the skin 
begins to assume a parchment-like appearance and becomes 
dry and leathery. As soon as this appearance is uniform, a 
number of coats of a liquid preparation must be painted on 
and allowed to dry until it forms a complete mask. After 
a number of days this mask begins to crack and then the 
old skin and the mask may be peeled off as shown in the 
Figure 16, leaving a perfectly formed new skin beneath. 
Xeither the peeling process nor the application of the oint- 
ment nor the wearing of the mask will be found at all pain- 
ful, but the results will certainly be all that one could 
desire. Hence, as the only disagreeable feature is the en- 
forced seclusion for a matter of a week or ten days, the 
process does not possess many terrors for the truly ambi- 
tious soul who is determined to look her best. 

It is true that this last process is not always necessary 
nor desirable for the other treatments, though milder, will 
nearly always perform the work effectively. However, as 
it is a gcod process it is well to know of it, for any dis- 
coloration of the skin that assumes the proportions shown 
in Figure 16 is certainly worthy of systematic effort to 
displace and remove it. 



THE SKIN. 93 

A wise man once declared, after gazing on the repre- 
sentations of women who had made history, that notwith- 
standing her ability, he was sufficiently convinced of the 
power of beauty to wager that "if Cleopatra's nose had been 
a little shorter, it would have changed the history of the 
world/' With this as a hint of what wise men believe, it 
may be well to remember that very likely none of these 
famous beauties ever were perturbed by the presence of 
chloasma, and that none of our modern beauties can hope 
to deserve the title unless they persevere in their efforts to 
procure and retain that most desirable of possessions — a 
clear, smooth and healthy complexion. 



CHAPTER X. 

OILY, STIPPLED, AND SALLOW SKINS. 

One of the most disagreeable and trying afflictions is 
the condition commonly described as an "oily skin." The 
greased and shining appearance is so marked that nothing 
can conceal it. Drops of oil stand out in place of the ordi- 
nary perspiration and the victim is frequently so mortified 
that she dreads appearing in society, as the slightest exer- 
tion causes this sebaceous secretion to be poured out like 
an oily coating on the face and scalp and in some instances 
upon the entire body. 

The ducts of the sebaceous follicles are generally 
plugged with comedones and the surface of the skin fre- 
quently appears pallid and poorly nourished. The treat- 
ment should be directed not only to the care of the face 
and scalp but also to the proper care of the entire body, 
and the diet as well as daily bath must be made matters of 
much importance. 

The lettuce creme may be applied most liberally before 
using this massage treatment in these instances, as the un- 
guent possesses great cleansing qualities. When, after a 
few moments it is rubbed off, the amount of dirt that is 
found on the towel will be found to be surprisingly great, 
for the oily skin will naturally attract much soot and dust 
from the air. In some instances it is even advisable to re- 
peat the application* and thus cleanse the skin as thoroughly 
as possible before using the massage. In this event the 
solution of soda may be used in just twice the proportion 
and hence to every bag of water, one cup of this mixture 



THE SKIN. 95 

may be added as the alkaline mixture possesses the same 
cleansing qualities exhibited by a mild soap. The water 
may be applied as warm as possible and if the face is ex- 
tremely oily the first treatment may be prolonged to some 
extent. 

The work has much better results where the treatments 
may be taken at least two or three times a week, for the 
first two weeks. After this time once a week will be suffi- 
cient. It is especially necessary to restore tone to the skin 
and for this purpose the manipulation is extremely bene- 
ficial. 

The diet should be limited to simply nourishing foods 
and all oily articles resolutely cut out. No sweets or fats 
or pastries should be eaten, but the fresh vegetables, broiled 
or roasted meats, and fruits may be eaten in abundance. 
The warm bath should be taken daily, and if the entire body 
has this oily appearance it is well to add to the bath one 
cup of soda and one of salt, allowing the entire body to be 
immersed in the water for some few moments and then 
using the shower with clear water. 

Treatment of the face at home will consist in washing 
it with warm water and a mild soap each night, the olive 
soap being particularly fine in such instances. Then acne 
creme may be rubbed in well until every particle has been 
absorbed. In the morning cold water with no soap should 
be used on the face and the lotion applied immediately 
afterward. 

The results of this treatment generally become mani- 
fest in a very short time and improvement will not only 
become more marked each day but a cure will result if 
sufficient patience is exercised. Of course, where this ten- 
dency exists .it is always well to watch the diet carefully 



96 THE SKIN. 

and in all cases bathing daily will naturally be a part of the 
life. 

Stippled skins looking as though the faces had been used 
formerly for the purpose of a pin-cushion, are also usually 
found in connection with an oily condition of the skin. In 
some instances these large pores have been caused by long 
neglected or chronic cases of blackheads and pimples and 
in such instances the insertion of the negative needle for 
a time will do much toward helping cleanse the cavity and 
stimulate the skin. Sometimes this alone will make the 
opening smaller. When, however, such is not the case, then 
the positive current, attached to a pure gold needle (thus 
leaving no sign of oxidation) can be used with most ex- 
cellent effect. 

For generally improving the condition and making the 
skin look more refined the same mask described in the chapter 
on chloasma, made by mixing refining powder with dioxide, 
can be used to great advantage. 

SALLOW AND MUDDY SKINS. 

Why people in perfect health should have complexions 
that resemble russet leather is one of the puzzling problems 
that all of us meet occasionally. Yet, there is rarely a day 
that one cannot see a woman who might make a fine ap- 
pearance were it not for the sallow hues that make almost 
any color absolutely impossible. Cases of this kind may be 
wonderfully benefited by systematic work, but to be effective 
it must be impressed upon the mind of the patient that as 
the skin seems to have this tendency naturally, the daily 
effort will therefore need to be systematic and persistent if 
the skin is to be kept in a good condition. 

Complexions of this kind do not need a skin food. It 



THE SKIN. 97 

is not powerful enough to bleach the skin and will therefore 
be superfluous, unless there are lines to rub out, in which 
instance, of course, it may be used in connection with the 
whitening and bleaching creme. The masseuse generally 
has a difficult customer to meet in the person of the woman 
with a complexion that has been obdurate to treatment. Dis- 
couraged and disheartened by past failures she demands a 
positive improvement immediately, or she will not attempt 
the work. The first treatment is therefore a matter of much 
importance both to the masseuse and to the patient. 

If the skin appears not only sallow but muddy and even 
at a hasty glance as though it needed a good washing, in- 
stead of using the lettuce creme as a preliminary to the 
treatment it is well to wash the face thoroughly with soap 
and water and then rinse it ofif with water to which a little 
borax has been added. Then the undiluted dioxide of hydro- 
gen may be mixed with the refining powder until a paste 
is made and this paste spread over the skin and allowed to 
dry. This may then be washed ofif with luke-warm water 
and the whitening creme used for massage after forcing 
it in with the red light of the radio bell. 

When the process can be repeated several times a 
week, or in very bad cases, even applied each night by the 
subject the skin soon begins to look dry and rough and 
commences scaling ofif. The new skin is invariably fine and 
better, and so the process is quite often used for this pur- 
pose. 

As the sallow and muddy appearance is often caused 
by exposure to the air, it is well to advise a protecting coat 
of powder before going out. This precaution will frequent- 
ly keep the skin from acquiring the unbecoming color in 
the spring and fall. 



98 THE SKIN. 

The home treatment will, of course, be recommended 
as consisting of the daily bath, plain food, and in many in- 
stances a good course in physical culture is especially bene- 
ficial, and the flushing of the colon as recommended in 
chapter of chloasma. The whitening creme may be used 
each night after cleansing the skin thoroughly with soap and 
water and the bleaching lotion should be applied in the 
morning and again at noon if the face is in bad condition. 
If the skin seems to need a thorough bleaching it may be 
done without injuring the cuticle by simply applying the 
lotion twice a day and omitting the creme at night for a 
time. When the face begins to get rough again omit the 
lotion and resume the creme for a day of two. Continue 
this until the skin is sufficiently whitened. More rapid 
bleaching results may be obtained by applying the lotion 
by means of the battery. 

In connection with the subject of bleaching it is well to 
explain that it is unnecessary to remove the cuticle in this 
process. Quite as good work can be done by systematic 
use of the massage and lotion and creme, and the results 
will be far better, for all. those who have undergone the 
process of having the cuticle removed must also use most 
exquisite care of the skin for months afterward, as other- 
wise it will tan and peel and become utterly unmanageable. 
The process itself is not so complicated that it cannot be 
easily done, but the results are unsatisfactory and not to be 
commended. The skin of the face and neck may not only 
be bleached light enough to satisfy any one, but may even be 
made whiter than the skin of the body by using the ma- 
terials recommended and being careful to protect with 
powder when going into the air. By applying a creme 
whenever the face gets at all rough and by discontinuing 



THE SKIN. 99 

the lotion there will be no trouble with an irritated surface, 
no weeks of seclusion and months of care spent in protect- 
ing a sensitive skin, but instead a clear, fresh complexion 
in a healthy condition. 

The coarse pores and rough appearance frequently 
found with muddy complexions will in nearly every instance 
yield speedily to the methods described, thus making the 
appearance far more refined, for no woman can appear to 
good advantage if the complexion does not bear inspection. 

L Of & . 



CHAPTER XL 

SCALY, DRY AND FLABBY SKINS. 

Fortunately for the majority of womankind, there are 
comparatively few who are troubled with abnormally dry 
or rough skins. In a few instances this trouble has ap- 
peared in every member of a family, and from infancy, upon 
any exposure to the air, the skin would immediately look 
as though some strong irritant had been applied. Tiny 
scales w r ou!d flake off in great profusion and the skin appear 
tight and drawn, with hundreds of tiny lines covering the 
surface as though acting the part of forerunners for 
wrinkles. A number of people have acquired this tendency 
after a severe nervous strain or upon recovering from an 
illness. 

The face frequently burns and smarts and when washed 
becomes red and inflamed, any application of soap making 
the condition much worse. No powder can be applied to 
protect the face, and even the slightest exposure always 
means an increased amount of trouble ; the cases seem hope- 
less indeed. 

The use of the automatic massage is in many instances 
absolutely impossible, while in others it may in time so 
harden the skin that the trouble becomes much less than 
before. 

When the skin is abnormally sensitive the following 
method will be found extremely beneficial. The face and 
neck may be coated well with lettuce creme, and then w T arm 
cloths applied, using them as warm as can be borne with 
comfort. This process may be contined until the flesh be- 



THE SKIN. 101 

comes uniformly pink, when the superfluous creme may be 
removed by drawing the softest towels gently over the 
surface. Then an application of tissue food can be used 
and the regular finger massage may be given. 

Occasionally one finds a case in which the use of water 
at any time is actually impossible, as it produces a rough- 
ness immediately. In every instance such as this an oil 
must be used for cleansing the skin, instead of soap and 
water, and to get the best results it should be used as warm 
as possible. 

In cases of this description the lettuce creme may be 
used for cleansing, omitting the use of water altogether. 
The tissue food or the whitening creme may be used for 
massage and may be forced into the skin by means of the 
red light of the radio bell. When the skin is so dry and 
scaly and rough that nothing seems to benefit it, the wearing 
of a rubber mask after the application of tissue food each 
night will soon be seen to have a remarkably softening 
effect. In nearlv all eczematous conditions the use of a 
mask of this description often without any application of 
oil used in conjunction has been found most advantageous 
and has been recommended by some of the very best medi- 
cal authorities. 

Complexions of this description need constant care to 
keep them in good condition, and women who are so af- 
flicted should make up their minds to submit cheerfully 
to the inevitable in the shape of constant and frequent ap- 
plications of oils and skin foods in order to keep the skin 
smooth. The fact that other people use an application of 
this kind once a day or once in two days should be no guide 
to the work, for every woman must study her own needs and 
fulfil them according to the peculiarities of her complexion, 
regardless of what other people advise. 



102 THE SKIN. 

FLABBY AND WITHERED SKINS. 

On many occasions young women have presented them- 
selves for treatment with skins that looked as though they 
belonged to women of seventy. In nearly every instance the 
beginning of the trouble could be traced to some severe 
illness or protracted strain or nervous occupation. Return- 
ing health seemingly does not affect the appearance of the 
skin in such instances, and hence much work is necessary, 
especially in the line of tonic treatments. 

The use of the electrolytic massage is here most valu- 
able and should be used every day if possible, or the treat- 
ments may be arranged as near together as conditions per- 
mit. Salt will be used in the warm water followed by much 
finger massage while at least two bags of cold water to which 
alum has been added will be found necessary for each treat- 
ment. In all cases of this description it is well to use the faradic 
current with the cold water and alum on account of the stimu- 
lating action it imparts to the skin. When the flabby con- 
dition has resulted from the use of steaming or frequent 
applications of hot towels more work is necessary before 
the desired results can be obtained. In any event it will 
require at least six weeks' or two months' work to give 
the skin its normal appearance. 

In the meantime the diet and manner of living must be 
considered also. Cold sponge baths should be taken each 
morning; a regular course of exercise should be adopted 
and practiced and all manner of nourishing foods eaten, 
while pastry, sweets and other indigestible condiments must 
be strictly prohibited. 

Where one is compelled to do this work at home the 
same general rules may be followed with great success, and 
as nothing but sufficient practice is needed to make the use 



THE SKIN. 103 

of the cup possible, no one need feel that her case is hope- 
less because she is debarred from the privilege of employ- 
ing an expert in this line. 

The use of the galvanic current may be alternated with 
that of the faradic if the patient desires, or it may be con- 
tinued to the close of the period. Although this treatment 
is mentioned particularly for younger people, it also does 
great things for those who are older and as a consequence 
many of the elderly women who have pride in their appear- 
ance take these treatments regularly, as the effect is so 
beneficial. 



. 



CHAPTER XII. 

HOW TO REMOVE FRECKLES, TAN AND SUNBURN. 

The freckled maiden may have Titian hair and brilliant 
coloring and dewey eyes with long black lashes, but if her 
complexion is as spotted as the guinea hen's her beauty 
is marred indeed. The pigment spots, as in the case of moth 
patches, are situated in the deeper layers of the skin, arid 
are almost invariably made more pronounced by exposure 
to the sun and air. 

As a rule, those afflicted with freckles have unusually 
fine skins, and when free from these discolorations the com- 
plexions generally far outshine the ordinary type. In al- 
most every case most wonderful improvement may be made 
by adopting the best method of caring for the skin, and 
clinging to it until the freckles have vanished. The most 
difficult part to learn is that of constantly protecting the 
skin from the influence of the sun and air, as even two or 
three hours' exposure without proper protection will almost 
invariably result in a fresh crop of brown spots. In some 
instances the effect of the heat and light, even when kept 
away by thicknesses of cloth, is sufficient to freckle the arms 
and neck. 

The treatment of lentigo or freckles is limited to the 
use of some form of treatment that shall protect the skin 
from the sun and air and also to the use of strongly bleach- 
ing lotions and ointments. Fox advocates touching each 
freckle with a minute drop of carbolic acid by means 
of a tiny bit of cotton wound around a wooden tooth- 
pick. He declares that although the immediate effect will 



THE SKIN. 105 

be to whiten the spots and that in a day the spots will be 
darker than ever that after a few days the epidermis de- 
stroyed by the acid will have fallen off in the shape of thin 
crusts and nothing but a pinkish hue will be left in their 
stead. 

This treatment has the disadvantage, however, of caus- 
ing quite an unpleasant burning and can hardly be recom- 
mended to the average operator. 

Hardaway recommends touching each spot with an 
electric needle, and in many instances this plan has been 
most successful. Ordinarily, however, it will be found that 
the bleaching process recommended for the treatment of 
chloasma, in Chapter IX, will be most efficient, always re- 
membering that it is not alone sufficient to remove the 
freckles but that it is also necessary to use sufficient pre- 
cautions to protect the skin against their return. The 
freckled subject should therefore never venture out without 
a protecting coat of powder and whenever possible should 
wear a broad-brimmed hat as a protection. 

Work at home consists in using olive soap each night 
with warm water, and then massaging well with whitening 
creme before retiring. In the morning nothing but cold 
water should be used and no soaps should be employed at 
this time. Immediately after drying the skin, the bleaching 
lotion may be employed by using a small sponge and thor- 
oughly saturating it before applying. If the lotion is too 
severe it may be diluted as required by pouring out a small 
quantity and adding the same amount of water to it. The 
friction at night by means of massage with the finger-tips 
is most important and should not be discontinued until the 
freckles have entirely disappeared. Even then the whiten- 
ing creme should at least be employed alternately with a 



106 THE SKIN. 

skin food, using one or the other each night, and always 
applying a good powder before exposure to the air. 

The most obstinate cases of freckles can always be 
made much lighter by this process while ordinary varieties 
may be cured in a very short time. Of course, severe or 
dark freckles require much more work and it is because of 
them that so many women insist upon undergoing the "peel- 
ing process" each year. It is not necessary to remove the 
cuticle, as so many declare, though to thoroughly bleach 
the skin may, of course, irritate it to some extent. Those 
who wish to attempt it may use the articles advised and the 
galvanic treatment as well, discontinuing the use of the 
lotion when the face becomes decidedly red. No freckles can 
be kept in subjection without work. Those who have them 
must remember that this tendency is inborn and must be 
watched and guarded against the same as other blemishes 
of this kind. In some instances, as people grow older, this 
inclination or tendency seems less marked, and frequently 
the skin becomes free from spots, from no particular reason. 
The majority of sufferers, however, need to use constant 
care to prevent acquiring more freckles as well as to aid in 
getting rid of the old ones. In all of this work the habit of 
protecting the skin is the most important and care should be 
taken to avoid washing the face either just before or just 
after exposure to the air. The best manner to use a powder 
is to apply it after a skin food has been rubbed in well, and 
in order to make it effective care must be taken to see that 
the powder is one that will cling to the skin well. No am- 
bitious woman will be deterred from this work by the fact 
that she must be constant in her attentions, for she knows 
all good results require much and untiring application. 



THE SKIX. 107 

TAX. 

The bronze coloring has been so popular for the past 
few years that some of the faddists have spent much time 
in acquiring a coating, that cost many dollars to remove. 
The desire to look weather-worn can usually be easily 
accomplished, for few pepole need more encouragement than 
an occasional outing on the river or driving through the 
country with no protection to the skin in the way of head 
covering or even a coat of powder. Once obtained it is 
extremely difficult to remove, and very frequently a thorough 
bleaching must be undergone before the brown shade- van- 
ish sufficiently to make the face presentable if light colors 
are to be worn. 

That there is no necessity for acquiring this coloring 
may be seen by the scores of enthusiasts who spend much 
time on the golf links or boating with none of the added 
tints so undesirable in the majority of case- The care of 
the skin necessary in preventing such complications is prac- 
tically the same as in freckles, and cremes and powders 
must be used liberally as directed if the skin is to be kept 
free from defects. It is well to avoid the use of much water 
on the skin when out in the air a great deal, using a cleans- 
ing creme of some kind instead of water. The whitening 
creme should be used religiously each night and the creme 
celeste may be employed as a sort of skin food before using 
the powder, or the tissue food may be used for that pur- 
pose. If one is desirous of trying a few of the home-made 
concoctions, the strawberry paste and cream may be ap- 
plied for the purpose of removing the tan. The recipes ap- 
pear in the chapter on the making of creams, and are ex- 
tremely effective when carefully prepared. 



108 THE SKIN. 

SUNBURN. 

Sunburn is generally dreaded by those who suffer from 
it, not only because it is particularly unbecoming, but also 
on account of the actual discomfort and pain suffered by 
those unfortunate enough to be afflicted. In reality, there 
are few things easier to avoid than this very trouble, as 
hundreds of people who have become enlightened can cheer- 
fully testify. The same general rules applying to the pro- 
tection of the face in preventing tan and freckles also ap- 
ply here. Where there is evinced a decided tendency to burn 
on the slightest exposure, it is best to use no water upon 
the face for days at a time, instead using the cleansing 
creme during the day and the tissue food or creme celeste 
at night. If much time is spent upon the water, the care 
should be redoubled, as it seems particularly difficult to 
avoid burning when subjected to the strong glare of the 
sun, and the reflection back from the water. 

If one has been unfortunate enough to incur a severe 
burn the treatment is simple, and consists of applying the 
most soothing ointments until the skin is again in a normal 
condition. If it is impossible to obtain any of the articles 
mentioned, it may be remembered that any good cold 
creme or pure oil may be used. If almond oil is not to be 
secured, olive oil may be applied, and if in an emergency 
the powder has been lost or mislaid the best substitute is 
found in pure household cornstarch. This simple remedy 
dusted on inflamed surfaces proves to be very soothing and 
will greatly assist in the work of reducing the inflamma- 
tion. The warm oil mixture under the treatment of scaly 
skins may also be used for cleansing the face during the 
day, though the other articles are usually amply sufficient 
for any case. Properly managed, the most sensitive skin 



THE SKIN. 109 

may be kept from burning, no matter how great the ex- 
posure may be. The exceptions to this statement are found 
only where, either from indolence or ignorance, sufficient 
care has not been taken to insure a thorough protection 
from the sun. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

THE USE OF POWDER. 

For some mysterious reason women who are otherwise 
well informed have exhibited a most unreasonable preju- 
dice against the use of powder. They gaze upon the inno- 
cent puff with horror and flee from the attractively labeled 
box containing this cosmetic as though it were also marked 
"dangerous." When some of these fastidious souls are ques- 
tioned as to a good substitute, the answer is almost invar- 
iably the same and one hears talcum recommended vigorous- 
ly. A distinction without a difference and one that makes 
the average woman chuckle, for she has tried the same 
thing and knows that talcum as a protection is useless. 

If the antiquity of the custom could make it more com- 
mendable nothing more would be needed, for the ancient 
volumes are filled with references to the use of cosmetics, 
and specially to those used for the purpose of concealing im- 
perfections of the skin. In fact, Job's third daughter was 
named Keren-Happuch. meaning horn of paint (Job. 42: 
14), indicating rather plainly that there must have been 
some degree of favor shown this particular cosmetic in 
one household. 

Returning to more modern times, it is refreshing to 
learn that nearly all men have been wise enough to realize 
how necessary the use of powder is as a protection to the 
skin, and as a consequence the barbers insist upon powder- 
ing the faces of their customers immediately after shaving 
them, thus avoiding the danger of irritation from the sun 
or air. For the purpose of protection the powder must be 



THE SKIN. HI 

of a variety that will adhere well and smoothly, otherwise 
the face will appear scaly and rough and give the impres- 
sion of being coated with the material used. 

A pure vegetable powder is thus in great demand, for, in 
addition to the office of protection, the fastidious woman in- 
sists that it shall possess the very desirable quality of harm- 
lessness, and this is not possible when any of the well-known 
heavy, white mineral substances are employed. Rice flour, 
though much quoted, is rarely used, as it is difficult to pro- 
cure, and hence either one of the many starches made from 
corn, wheat or beans is usually employed as a basis for a 
mixture of this kind. The ideal powder cannot be made by 
the amateur or the ordinary manufacturer, as the process is 
so complicated that it requires a most elaborate outfit to 
produce the cosmetic properly, as in the many different 
sittings not only many varieties of bolting cloth and the 
employment of people who understand the work, but also 
the presence of a competent chemist as well. Of course, 
there are many formulae extolled, but the one in greatest 
favor demands the use of the finest and purest almond pow- 
der, orris powder, wheat starch and rice starch, sifted 
through bolting cloth several times, then tinted and per- 
fumed and blended with a most delicate oil into a mixture 
not only soft and fine, but also possessing the quality of 
sticking on the skin as well. The sifting process is what 
really makes the powder — making a work much beyond 
the reach of the ambitious amateur owing to the expense 
of the different grades of bolting cloth required, varying 
from the ordinary mesh to the very finest. It is said that the 
best powder is sifted at least seven times. The tinting, too, 
is a matter of some consequence, and as there is never a skin 
that is positively white, the well-made powder should as 



112 THE SKIN. 

closely as possible simulate the colors observed-. The ap- 
plication of a pure, white powder to the ordinary skin 
makes it look as though it were coated with something like 
whitewash, the dark-colored portions showing through in a 
bluish shade, presenting a most unnatural appearance. The 
color most popular for use on all skin is that termed "flesh" 
and is made by adding traces of carmine, or carmine and 
ochre to the white materials until a peculiar chamois tint 
is produced. 

Powder should always be applied before venturing into 
the air, and especially when about to embark upon a boating, 
driving or any other expedition. The most practical man- 
ner of applying it is to first rub on some skin food and 
after a few moments remove all the oil that may be found 
upon the skin, then dust on the powder with a soft bit of 
cotton cloth and remove all that does not cling well by 
rubbing a dry cloth over the face. In this manner the 
roughness, burning and irritation generally following upon 
exposure to the sun may be avoided and the skin kept 
smooth and fresh. Coats of tan are much more easily ac- 
quired than lost, and the girl who values her appearance 
will endeavor to preserve the most precious of possessions — 
a good complexion — while p/otecting a poor one from fur- 
ther defects. 

A pleasing and fragrant mixture that may be used after 
the bath for the purpose of preventing the disagreeable 
odor from perspiration from being noticed is made by mix- 
ing these ingredients together : 

POWDER FOR USE AFTER BATHING. 

Powdered orris root 4 o 

P>oracic acid (powdered) I 3 

Sub-nitrate bismuth I o 

Corn starch 4 o 




u 
c 

o 
O 



en 

o 

.s 

<u 
u 
u 




P^ 

be 

C 

• — i 

o 

CO 



00 
1—1 

6 

I— I 



114 THE SKIN. 

Those who are anxious to try mixing powder that, 
though not purely vegetable, is still uninjurious, may try 
the following recipe, said to have belonged to a collection 
made by the famous Catherine De Medici, who was almost 
as much envied for her knowledge of the cosmetic art as 
she was hated for her attempts to rid the world of those 
she disliked : 

Best Venetian talc 4 § 

Sulphate barium 5 § 

Corn starch «4 5 

Rice flour 2 § 

Sift all together through a coarse sieve, several times, 
so that the lumps in the barium sulphate may be broken up. 
Then add one-half ounce of lanolin and one ounce of 
almond oil and sift again. Add to these ingredients sufficient 
carmine and ochre to make the tint a soft tan and sift 
through three grades of bolting cloth before adding the per- 
fume, which may be either oil of rose, nerolli or any other 
odor desired. .The next four sittings will be necessary in 
order to make the powder fine enough to use on the face. 

A powder for which there is much demand is that made 
by mixing one of these strongly white ingredients with water 
and thus making a so-called "liquid powder." Although 
useful for the neck and arms when unsightly blotches or 
redness prevent making a good appearance, the application 
upon the face should be made most sparingly lest the skin 
be made dry and scaly. 

LIQUID COSMETIC. , 

Oxide of zinc 1 § 

Barium sulphate 1 § 

Glycerine 1 3 

Alcohol 1 § 

Water 6 3 

Cologne 14 3 



THE SKIN. 115 

Mix thoroughly and strain through cotton or fine bolt- 
ing cloth. Keep in a tightly corked bottle and apply with 
a sponge when required. 

Equal in importance to the proper application of the 
powder is the manner of removing it, and if the skin is to 
be kept in a thoroughly fine condition the powder must 
positively be removed by a thorough cleansing each night. 
The most harmless substances may cause a great deal of 
trouble unless this precaution is observed. When traveling, 
a cleansing creme will remove the dust and the powder 
quite as effectively as soap and water. On other occasions 
the ordinary means may be employed. The respect with 
which this cosmetic is held by some people may well be 
estimated by the very general use it enjoys, for it is said of 
the modern maid that — 

She may live without love, never owning a heart, 
She may live without music, and drama and art; 
She may live without having a sin to confess. 
With a calm disregard for new hats or a dress ; 
She may live without rarebit or lobster or chowder, 
But where is the maid who can live without powder? 



CHAPTER XIV. 

HINTS ON BATHING AND THE USE OF SOAP. 

To the ordinary mortal the bath is a matter of routine, 
to be taken at regular intervals for the purpose of cleansing 
the body. That it may have far-reaching results in the way 
of relieving certain conditions or of remedying grave de- 
fects of the skin, many are unwilling to believe. However, 
it is not necessary to convert, for just a little insistence in 
the way of prescribing the bath will soon bear speedy 
results. 

The educated bather, and by that is meant the woman 
who understands just what benefits may be derived from 
the proper use of the bath, has her daily plunge into luke- 
warm water, followed by the cold sponge. In addition to 
this'there is the warm bath, taken at least twice a week, at 
a temperature sufficiently high to induce vigorous perspira- 
tion. If possible, one of these baths should be either a Rus- 
sian or Turkish bath, followed by massage given by an 
experienced operator. The results of this system of bathing 
may be seen in the clear skin and youthful appearance of 
the devotee to cleanliness. Her figure, too, bears testi- 
mony to the fact that rarely does superfluous flesh persist 
when the pores are kept free from obstructions and the body 
maintained in an absolutely active condition. 

Of course, there are numerous methods of taking baths 
and many improvements on the plain bath, all of which will 
be considered in order of importance. The first considera- 
tion is naturally the kind of water that must be used for 
the purpose. If this is extremely hard, making the skin 



THE SKIN. 117 

feel peculiarly sensitive and irritated afterward, it will be 
well to make use of the following formulae, mixing the in- 
gredients and keeping a large supply on hand constantly, 
so that the effort may be systematically conducted : Borax, 
one pound ; aromatic spirits of ammonia, one pound ; soda, 
one pound. Mix together and keep in a mason fruit jar, 
using one cup of the mixture for the ordinary tub bath. 
Then in lieu of a washcloth nothing can be better, both for 
the effect on the skin and for the pleasure of using it, than 
the bran mitten. This is made by cutting out a piece of 
cheesecloth into a six-inch square. These squares may then 
be stitched together, leaving only a small opening at one 
end in which to put the bran. When filled comfortably — 
that is, just enough to make the mitten about three-quarters 
of an inch in thickness — the opening may be closed and the 
mitten is ready for use. The benefit from the bran is sup- 
posed to come from the gluten in it, which strengthens and 
softens the tissues. The warm water, of course, assists in 
this process. In a bath of this kind no soap is necessary 
to assist in the cleaning process, as the bran is sufficient. 
If the skin is at all sensitive after leaving the bath, showing 
a tendency to peel and flake off, nothing can be better to use 
for anointing the entire body than the following prepara- 
tion, made easily by observing the directions : 

Gum tragacanth 15 

Borax 1 § 

Glycerine 25 

Alcohol 25 

Water enough to make a thick jelly. 
Powdered orris root 25 

Dissolve the gum tragacanth in enough water to make 
it thoroughly transparent and then add the glycerine and 



118 THE SKIN. 

alcohol. More water may then be added as necessary, using 
the orris powder last of all. This mixture is generally 
named jelly of violets and has the advantage of drying in 
almost immediately, thus obviating all danger of producing 
a sticky feeling. In addition to the use of this jelly after 
bathing it is often necessary to anoint the body with a good 
creme before entering the bath. In this case Creme Celeste 
will be found extremely beneficial. 

People troubled with eruptive diseases of the skin or 
obstinate comedones are much benefited by the sulphur 
baths. When it is impossible to take baths of this kind 
excepting at home, the method may be made extremely easy 
by purchasing a bottle of the liquid sulphume. There is said 
to be enough in one of these bottles for eight baths. The 
best way to use this substance is to pour the amount re- 
quired into the water that is about body-temperature, and 
then after entering the bath, have a sheet drawn over the 
tub and up closely around the neck of the bather. The 
warm water may then be added until the bath is as hot as 
can be taken with any comfort. This will usually induce 
a copious perspiration. Before entering a sulphur bath, the 
face and neck should be carefully washed with clear, warm 
water, and after leaving the bath the same precaution should 
be observed. 

Nervous temperaments are wonderfully benefited by 
means of the electric bath, and so great is said to be the 
curative effects of these baths that in many instances most 
stubborn cases have been improved rapidly by the prop- 
er amount of bathing. This fact should be of especial 
interest to the many who are afflicted with the brown dis- 
coloration termed "moth patch/' for it is said that many 
of these most obstinate and disfiguring spots may be much 
assisted by this process. 




a uttc Bath Apparatu 

Diagram Showing Bath Tub with Movable Flectrcdes connected to Switch Board 
A maximum of convenience and efficiency at a minimum of expense. 

it m;i\ be used Id any bath room in connection with any porcelain or porcelain 
lin«-d Iron tub, the movable oath tub electrodes being placed in any desired 
poslti< pposite sides 9 of ihe tut', thus permitting application of the 

• t«» an.\ portion of the bodj of the patient. 





Movable Hath Tub Kk-otrode. 



120 THE SKIN. 

When the effect of friction is desired from the use of 
bran baths, this may be obtained by adding a peck of the 
ordinary bran to the warm bath, and rubbing the body 
vigorously with the hands. Some people prefer to use oat 
meal in the bath, claiming that the effect is even better, while 
still others assert that common rock salt added to the water 
in large quantities and then used to produce a decided glow 
is the best of all. Of course, the difference in action be- 
tween salt and a substance containing gluten is too great to 
admit of any comparison. Hence those who prefer salt 
baths may use them for the purpose of stimulation, but not 
with the idea of softening the skin. 

The temperature at which the water should be used may 
be regulated according to the effect desired. In baths near 
the body temperature the perspiration ceases, no sweat is 
secreted, but instead the fluid generally excreted is retained 
in the skin. Warm baths have a relaxing effect. They 
dilate the blood-vessels and cause an abundant excretion 
of fluid. Cold baths harden the skin and have much in- 
fluence in accustoming one to low temperature, but do not 
cleanse the skin to any extent, while in addition they pro- 
duce a shock not either agreeable or safe for those of 
weakened constitutions. A safe rule to adopt in order to 
avoid the danger of catching cold, or of becoming at all 
weakened by warm baths, is that of using a cold sponge 
immediately afterward, thus uniting the methods in a way 
that is sure to be beneficial. 

In connection with bathing, the use of the best soap 
is a matter of much importance. And, strange as it may 
seem, not one person in a hundred seems to realize what a 
good soap really is. The majority of people long for soaps 
producing great quantities of lather. Others insist upon 



THE SKI X. 121 

finely perfumed articles and pay exorbitant prices for dain- 
tily scented packages. Wise people cling to the mild olive 
soap that is nearly neutral in reaction. 

The harm clone by some of the strongly alkaline soaps 
can hardly be overestimated. They not only induce a pre- 
maturely aged appearance of the skin by extracting the fat 
from sebaceous glands and tissues, but also produce more 
or less deep cauterizations. Dry or scaly skins are espe- 
cially injured by the USC of such soaps, while people in- 
dined to wrinkle easily may, upon observation, notice that 
each application of a soap of this description is followed 
by the appearance of numerous small lines that indicate the 
coming of the deeper creases. 

The best of all soaps is the one that can cleanse with- 
out injury. It should be nearly neutral in reaction, produce 
but a little lather, and leave the flesh feeling soft and smooth 
instead of dry and drawn. 

In short, it must be made of the purest ingredients if the 
effect upon the skin is to be at all beneficial. The well-in- 
formed woman would as soon think of traveling without her 
toothbrush as without her own soap. True, nearly every 
hotel is now provided with some highly scented variety that 
makes the skin feel as though it had been scalded, but it is 
just because of the important action soap has upon the skin 
that all these varieties should be avoided. Carelessness in 
this respect has caused many an obstinate case of skin 
trouble, while the use of the soap belonging to others of the 
same household is many times the means of causing a skin 
disease to be contracted. 

As a guide in deciding as to the best quality of soap the 
sensation experienced after using it is to be relied upon. If 
the skin feels as though smiling would crack it, or as though 



122 THE SKIN. 

any motion of the muscles would in some way disturb the 
"taut condition/' or if there is a burning sensation it is not 
sufficiently neutral in reaction to be a good soap even though 
it may have been put up in a very elaborate package and 
may have cost $1.00 a cake. Select a pure, as nearly neu- 
tral soap as possible and use it with discretion if you would 
be comfortable, cleanly and contented, for only such a soap 
can produce the desired results, for it is said by an eminent 
authority that "even from the body's purity, the mind re- 
ceives a secret, sympathetic aid." 



CHAPTER XV. 

USEFUL SUGGESTIONS TO THE OPERATOR WITH DIRECTIONS FOR 
STERILIZING THE INSTRUMENTS. 

The masseuse who would do good work must not only 
understand how to manipulate the muscles, open and cleanse 
pustules and coax the signs of age away, but she must also 
learn and practice how to thoroughly sterilize her instru- 
ments for this work. 

The necessity for this knowledge is so great that it is 
strange in this age of universal information to find so many 
who neither seem to know nor care anything about this 
extremely important subject. Not only must the instru- 
ments themselves be thoroughly cleansed, but the hands of 
the masseuse must also be taken into account and rendered 
as harmless as possible. Soap and water alone are not 
sufficiently powerful to really clean any hand, and especially 
to make the finger-nails properly free from germs. In 
every instance there must be used, not only these ordinary 
agents, but also something stronger, such as either the 
1-2000 per cent of mercuric chloride, as advocated in many 
hospitals, or the three per cent formalin solution used effec- 
tively and very generally for skin work. 

The cleansing or sterilizing of instruments may be ac- 
complished by two methods, either by boiling for a few mo- 
ments in water to which one per cent of soda has been 
added, or by immersing in a ten per cent solution of forma- 
lin. It is a well-known fact that heat destroys nearly all 
germs very effectively, while chemicals are more or less 
limited in their action, though, of course, effective in many 



124 THE SKIN. 

cases. The careful masseuse should be provided with a 
ten per cent solution of formalin and water, and after 
using an instrument should cleanse it with water and alco- 
hol, and then allow it to remain in this solution for a few 
moments ; for instance, there should be a little flat enameled 
dish used for this purpose,, and into this the formalin solu- 
tion may be poured, using a fresh supply, of course, for 
each patient, and always afterward rinsing the instrument 
off with clear hot water. If the boiling process of steriliza- 
tion is used, the instrument may be cleansed first and then 
subjected to the action of the boiling water for, say, four 
or five minutes. This does not mean water from a tap that 
is extremely warm, but really boiling water, such as may 
be obtained by placing the tiny dish over a flame and allow- 
ing the water to boil vigorously. This process of steriliza- 
tion must extend to everything used, the tiny cup of the 
electrolytic massage, the curettes, and rollers used for mas- 
sage. These last-named articles may perhaps better be im- 
mersed in the formalin solution, as the boiling water is not 
the thing for hard rubber or ivory, while the steel instru- 
ments may be subjected to the boiling. 

The hands of the operator should be carefully cleansed 
before she touches the face of the patient, and this is to be 
done by scrubbing well with soap and water and then rins- 
ing in either the bichloride or formalin solution. The skin 
is always covered with a multitude of germs, some of them 
entirely harmless; others, undoubtedly, germs of disease; 
any of them well calculated to make much mischief at the 
first provocation, or when they can gain an entrance into the 
skin, as through an incision. Hence before opening any 
pustules or removing blackheads the skin should be washed 
with an antiseptic solution of formalin. In order to prevent 



THE SKIN. 125 

irritation this solution may be made by using distilled 
water and adding a little glycerine, thus : Distilled water, 
48 ounces ; glycerine, y 2 ounce ; and formalin, y 2 ounce. 
This solution may be poured onto the bit of cotton, and 
then used for washing and cleansing the face. Then the 
pimples may be opened with the instruments previously ster- 
ilized, and the peroxide of hydrogen used to destroy the ele- 
ments upon which the germs multiply, though of course this 
liquid may be of some use in destroying germs as well. The 
acne creme, to be used for massage, is an ointment contain- 
ing an antiseptic which may by absorption tend to destroy 
the germs contained in the pustules, and thus prevent recur- 
rences ; hence the necessity for deep massage after the con- 
tents of these spots have been removed. 

In using any creme, it is well to take the precaution of 
using from a small amount, rather than from large portions 
that may be made a breeding-place for the multiplication of 
germs by the careless masseuse who places her fingers from 
the face to the jar, and back again, times innumerable. The 
ordinary skin food is rarely possessed of any germicidal 
power and may thus be made a medium of much danger. 

Hence care should be taken to see that the cremes are 
used from small jars, and renewed daily, or oftener if neces- 
sary, to invariably use bits of absorbent cotton for remov- 
ing the creme and applying to the face, and if it has been 
impossible to get enough the first time, to employ a fresh 
bit of cotton each time the creme is applied to the skin. In 
applying powder this same precaution should be observed, 
and the powder should be sifted onto the fresh bit of 
cotton used for each patient, instead of dipping the cotton 
into the box. 

The moment after an instrument has been used it 



126 THE SKIN. 

should be placed in formalin solution always kept in the bot- 
tom of the sterilizer. After twenty minutes it may be 
placed on the upper section where the liquid will drain off 
and here all of the instruments should repose when not in 
use, for in this way they can always be ready for work and at 
the same time thoroughly protected from the dust. 

Large-mouthed candy jars will be found excellent as 
receptacles for the cotton and gauze in constant use, while 
the towel supply and head-bands should also be kept out of 
sight and away from contact with the furniture. Alcohol, 
witch-hazel, boracic acid, lavender lotion and other 
liquids in constant use should be kept in special bottles 
neatly labeled, while all cremes or ointments in use should 
be kept supplied with fresh labels in order to make the ap- 
pearance as neat as possible. 

There is no excuse for carelessness in this respect. The 
appearance of any room for the purpose of skin treatment 
should be as scrupulously neat and attractive as possible. 
Every patient has a right to demand that all possible effort 
be made to keep the articles used upon her face and hands 
absolutely free from any danger of infecting her. The com- 
petent masseuse will need no urging to devote the time 
necessary to this work. 

Those who read these lines feeling that such precautions 
are unnecessary will do well to remember that each year 
is raising the standard ; and requirements for these respon- 
sible positions are consequently becoming more rigid. Op- 
erators who get the best results will naturally be the most 
popular, and will obtain equally pleasing returns financially. 

The skilful operator occupies a prominent place in the 
lives of women, for she means to them a powerful aid in 
preserving ^their complexions, increasing their period of en- 



THE SKIN. 127 

joyment in proportion to the youthful appearance they are 
able to present. Many women are really young as long as 
they appear to be, and they dread the encroachments of age 
not so much because of the fear of losing their beauty, but 
more on account of the dread of the loss of affection and 
attention they think will follow as their ability to attract 
and please decreases. 

It is especially with the hope of impressing upon all 
women in this business the necessity for absolute honesty 
that these lines have been written. The more generally 
full knowledge on this subject is disseminated, the better 
for investigators, for then there will be fewer despondent 
and discouraged souls in this world, and more who are 
happy and contented. 

The woman who makes a failure in this work of beauti- 
fying others has usually no one to blame but herself, for 
in every community there are scores of women absolutely 
hungering for an opportunity of learning how they may 
best be improved. If a masseuse is careless of her appear- 
ance and has not tried to remove in herself the defects she 
claims to cure in others she cannot hope to be considered 
particularly desirable. Another fault she may possess is 
that of gossiping with one patient about the defects of 
another. This is most disastrous and inevitably means ruin. 
Finally she must remember that a certain amount of public- 
ity is desirable and that cards, printed matter and a judicious 
amount of advertising are good investments, not a waste of 
money. 

We have known of no failures among women who were 
well-grounded in their work, punctual in keeping their ap- 
pointments, scrupulously neat in appearance, discreet in 
conversation and industrious. In no other field is there 



128 ' THE SKIN. 

found so great an opening as in this special line today, for 
while there are very many people who claim to do the 
work, not one in a hundred is really well enough informed 
to do as she should, and hence there is ever an opportunity 
for the woman who is wise enough to realize this fact and 
learn her work thoroughly. 

The ideal masseuse possesses a certain amount of per- 
sonal magnetism that makes her presence restful. She 
must be alert to every possibility of improvement and 
strong enough to consider every episode of a disappoint- 
ing nature a spur to further effort rather than a draw- 
back to future progress. Each day will bring to her fresh 
material for experiment and study, and if she truly loves 
her calling, she will find that her enthusiasm grows as she 
progresses into a full realization of the wonderful possi- 
bilities within her reach. The demand for honest, earnest 
work has never been so great as it is now, and the one who 
enters into her vocation with the determination to put 
heart and soul into her labors may rest assured that she 
will reap a well merited success. 

"Let your light so shine that others may see your good 
work." 



CHAPTER XVI. 

HOW TO FURNISH THE TREATMENT ROOMS. 

The most practical and effective method of furnishing 
the rooms to be used for the treatment of the face, scalp 
and hands is a question that interests every woman in busi- 
ness. But a few years ago the fad was to have heavy rugs, 
expensive and dust-gathering hangings, all sorts of orna- 
ments and most elaborate surroundings in order to impress 
the ordinary observer with the sense of luxury and comfort. 

Today, with our knowledge of hygiene and our desire to 
do the best work, we reject everything that is not of practi- 
cal use and hence use in the operating rooms only the neces- 
sary articles of furniture — and to go a step farther, we are 
endeavoring to have all of these articles made of white 
enamel and iron so that they may be perfectly aseptic. 

This care extends also to the floor and walls, and when- 
ever it can be so arranged the tiling effect in pure white will 
be found excellent for both. When this is not within the 
range of possibilities the tiled linoleum will make an excel- 
lent substitute for the floor, while for the walls, either tiled 
oil cloth or sanitary paper may be used with most satisfac- 
tory effect. The wood work, of course, should always be 
painted white and then enameled. 

Each department should be completely furnished, and 
should be so arranged as to be practically shut off from the 
others, either by screens or partitions. For instance, in the 
shampoo or hair-dressing or scalp treatment work, as well as 
in the massage of the face the operator and subject should 
be kept completely screened from observation so that the 



130 THE SKIN. 

ordinary visitor may not be able to see who is being treated 
or what is being done. When partitions cannot be built and 
screens are found too expensive, effective and economical 
substitutes may be arranged by tacking plain white or the 
tiled oil cloth onto wooden lath frames an.i thus making 
a complete division of an apartment. 

In addition to the care observed in protecting subjects 
from the casual observer, an effort must also be made to 
have every article necessary for work in each booth. Thus 
every treatment may be given without interruption or the 
necessity for the operator running from one booth to another 
to secure the especial instrument she needs. In short to 
use the old expression — "there should be a place for every- 
thing and then everything should be kept in its place." 

The average woman in business, as a rule starts in with 
just enough money to buy the absolutely necessary equip- 
ment. Hence in giving a description of what is really de- 
sirable, this fact should be borne in mind, as in every in- 
stance it will be quite possible to spend more money should 
one have the desire. 

The reception room should contain in addition to the usual 
number of chairs, the display cases for goods, writing desk 
with supply of stationery and table covered with periodicals, 
also business cards giving kind of treatments and prices for 
work. If the room is large enough one or two manicure 
tables may be placed in this room, as manicuring is perhaps 
the one exception to the rule that work of this kind should 
be done with as much privacy as possible. If the room is 
small another little department may be added and the furni- 
ture necessary will be as follows,, if the new aseptic material 

IS u>ed : 




Fig. 19. Shampoo Chair and Board. 






132 THE SKIN. 

Table ■ $ x 5-°° 

Chair 6.00 

Stool 6.00 

Manicure Instruments 4- 00 

Emery boards, polish, etc 1.50 



$32.50 



In the massage department the cost of furnishing varies 
very widely. For instance, one may want to start in busi- 
ness with the least possible expense and would therefore use 
the bag with electrolytic cup, the 14 dry-cell battery in place 
of the wall-plate, a Morris Chair in place of the regular 
massage chair, and possibly would not use the vibrator at 
all. 

In the accompanying list prices are given for the best 
equipment, and these may be decreased as either taste or 
necessity may make such a matter desirable. The massage 
chair in either the aseptic furniture or in the other style will 
amount to approximately $40, and as both varieties of the 
new kind are designed not only for the comfort of the sub- 
ject, but also with a view to saving the operator the many 
weary hours of standing otherwise necessary, this invest- 
ment would seem to be a wise one from every point of view. 
With the battery, it has been explained that just as ten 
horses will pull a greater load than one, so will a battery 
with a greater number of cells or one that is connected with 
the city current have a more powerful effect than one with 
a limited number of cells. Hence, of course, one w T ill see 
that in every instance in which it is possible an investment 
should be made in the very best apparatus that can be pro- 
cured, as in time it will be found by far the cheapest. 







Fig. 20. Irrigating Stand for Use with Electrolytic Cup. 



134 THE SKIN. 

Massage Chair $ 40.00 

Glass Top Table , 7-°° 

Small Sterilizer 2.35 

Irrigating Apparatus with the Electrolytic 

Cup 10.50 

Galvanic and Faradic Wall-Plate or Im- 
proved 27-Cell Battery 35-00 

Radio-Bell 5- 00 

Electrodes, Needle Holders and Needles. 

etc 5-°° 

Screen — Steel — White Enamel 12.00 

Mirror with White Frame 8.00 






$12485 

To this list a vibratory machine costing any price from 
$25.00 for the hand machines to $75 for the standards, may 
be added if one so desires. Should, however, necessity de- 
mand a less expensive outfit, by omitting the screen, irrigat- 
ing apparatus, using the 15-cell battery in place of the other, 
securing a smaller mirror and using a Morris chair the ex- 
pense may be decreased to a minimum of about $60.00. 

The difference in price will hardly appeal to the ambi- 
tious woman, for with the one equipment she will have an 
ideal operating room while with the other, naturally, there 
will remain much to be desired. 

Ordinarily the work of shampooing, scalp treatment 
and hair-dressing will be conducted in the same room, 
though this will doubtless also be separated into booths by 
oil-cloth or wooden partitions or better still by screens so 
that at least three departments will be provided. Here will 
be found necessary the usual number of chairs, at least one 
dressing table and the following articles : 



THE SKIN. 135 

Electric Hair Dryer $40.00 

Shampoo Board and Chair 25.00 

Battery . ., 15-00 

Sanitary Hair Brush 2.25 

Curling Iron Heater 1.35 

Brushes, Combs, Irons etc 10.00 

Radio-Bell 5.00 

Small Sterilizer 2.35 



$100.95 



In this estimate once more a complete equipment has 
been given, so if necessity demands, by omitting the battery, 
radio-bell and using the shampoo stand instead of the sham- 
poo chair, a reduction of $30.00 can be made. 

The shampoo chair and board will, however, be found 
a very good article, as after the shampoo is finished, the 
board may be removed and the chair used for scalp treat- 
ments, and as it is aseptic this is a very desirable feature, 
as it can be kept perfectly clean at all times. The shampoo 
board possesses the advantage of being so arranged that the 
subject can sit in an ordinary position with her neck rest- 
ing against the collar of the board while her hair is being 
shampooed. This permits the most thorough cleansing of 
the hair and scalp without the slightest inconvenience to the 
subject, and at the same time makes work far easier for the 
operator. The advantage possessed by the board as over the 
scooped-out bowl, is that it can be adapted to any person 
of any height and in addition the long hair can be much 
more quickly and effectively rinsed free from soap than 
when washed in the bowl. 

The electric dryer is a decided innovation and has quick- 
ly attained a marked degree of popularity, owing to the fact 



136 THE SKIN. 

that the heat generated is not sufficiently intense to injure 
the hair, and also because by using electricity alone the very 
disagreeable odor always attendant on the use of gas as well 
as the too intense heat are both avoided. 

In addition to the expenses mentioned there will of 
course be made an allowance for a supply of coverings for 
the gowns, Turkish towels and small hand towels, head- 
bands and aprons. Including everything that can be used 
however, the expense can be made to come under $250.00, 
or may just as easily be increased to twice that amount, with 
a suitable allowance of course made for advertising matter 
such as cards, announcements, etc. 

The expense of this investment though is so ridiculously 
small, as compared with the earning properties of the same 
amount of money invested at what is called a "safe rate of 
interest,*' that the practical woman who wants a pleasant, 
lucrative and popular means of earning a livelihood will 
hardly hesitate many moments at making the decision to 
start in a new career. She well knows that $500 at six per 
cent will only make for her $30 in a year, while the same 
amount ,of money used wisely in securing her apparatus 
will make her self-supporting and independent. Therefore. 
given a good foundation in the way of practical training, 
a desirable location and the necessary equipment and will- 
ingness to work, nothing more can be desired, for success 
is assured. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

ELECTRICITY. 

Electricity is now regarded as a force corresponding 
to the other manifestations of Nature such as light, heat, 
etc. It is really a mode of motion, a form of vibration or 
some other manifestation of that form of matter called ether. 
It is manifested in three general forms, magnetism, static 
or franklinic electricity and galvanism. 

In the work of removing facial blemishes, for cata- 
phoresis, stimulation of the skin or scalp or similar opera- 
tions the use of either the galvanic or faradic current is 
indicated and hence it is necessary that the student become 
familiar with their nature, use and possibilities. 

The importance of these two forms of electricity can 
hardlv be overestimated, for thev can be used in countless 
ways for conditions most dissimilar, and in many instances 
can produce desired results in fully one quarter of the time 
required by other methods. 

It is true that in the past many operators have been 
deterred from attempting to use electricity, because of the 
feeling that the course of study necessary would be far be- 
yond their means. Books of instruction onlv made the mat- 
ter more difficult, as the terms used to describe the various 
measurements were not made sufficiently clear for the aver- 
age mind to grasp, and as a consequence, investigation 
brought confusion rather than enlightenment. 

With these facts in mind the author is determined to 
make the directions for work as cl'ear and concise as possi- 
ble, using only the terms actually necessary for the proper 
explanations, and endeavoring always to keep before the 



138 THE SKIN. 

mind of the student the fact that instead of working blindly, 
with a mysterious element, Electricity is a natural force, and 
its use is clearly indicated as a practical method: of accom- 
plishing the best results in the shortest possible time. 

Again referring to the definition it will be remembered 
that electricity is a manifestation of that form of matter 
called ether. To understand the subject clearly, it will 
be therefore necessary to know some of the properties of 
ether, and for this purpose it will be well to give this defini- 
tion. 

ETHER. 

"Ether — an hypothetical medium of great tenacity and 
extreme tenuity pervading all space, the interior of solid 
bodies not excepted, and acting as a medium for the trans- 
mission of light and heat." 

Ether, then, pervades all space, is present everywhere, 
and consequently we have electricity present in a passive 
state. To make use of this force, we must therefore "dis- 
turb the equilibrium of the ether" by some form of action, 
and it is by varying this form of action that we secure the 
different forms of electricity. 

GALVANISM. 

The Galvanic Current is that form of electricity gener- 
ated by chemical action. It is sometimes called voltaism or 
voltaic electricity, or, to use the most commonly accepted 
term, the continuous or constant current — because it may 
be used without interruption or breaking of the current. 

MANNER OF PRODUCING THE GALVANIC CURRENT. 

The simplest form of galvanic cell consists of two 
pieces of dissimilar metals partially immersed in diluted 



THE SKIN. 



139 




sulphuric acid. The illustration shows a 
single galvanic cell composed of zinc and 
carbon plates. When these plates are in- 
sulated from each other there is no action 
between them ; but when they be con- 
nected by a wire, chemical action at 
once begins at the surface of the zinc, 
electricity is generated which passes 
across the liquid to the carbon. The zinc is known as the 
negative element and the carbon as the positive element. 
The current of electricity passes through the fluid from the 
zinc to the carbon and from the carbon passes along the wire 
back to the zinc, thus completing the circuit. The current 
generated in the battery cell always takes this direction, 
hence the current from the carbon pole is always posi- 
tive and the current from the zinc pole is always negative. 
If this fact is kept well in mind there need never be any doubt 
or fear about using either the positive or the negative, 
whichever may be desired or indicated as necessary in any 
particular treatment. 

When six cells or twelve cells are used the current is con- 
tinuous from the zinc of the last cell of the series, whether 
it be six or twelve, through the fluid to the carbon, and 
by means of the wire to the zinc of the next cell, and so on 
through the entire series, finally emerging from the carbon 
of the first cell through the copper wire back to the zinc of 
the last cell, six or twelve, as the case may be. Now, if the 
copper wire connecting carbon of cell "one" with the zinc 
of cell "twelve" be cut and a living body (the patient) be 
placed in the circuit, the patient the'n becomes a part of the 
circuit ; if the right hand is holding the wire from the car- 
bon, then the positive current is entering the body through 



140 THE SKIN. 

the right hand and the negative current is passing out of the 
body through the left hand and back through the wire to 
the battery. Or, as in practice, if the sponge or 'inert pole is 
connected with the wire or conducting cord from the carbon 
and the needle or active pole is connected with the conduct- 
ing cord from the zinc, then the needle becomes the nega- 
tive pole and is properly connected for negative electrolysis. 
The quantity of current from one cell is as great as the 
quantity from six or twelve cells ; but the penetrating power 
is increased by each additional cell; and just as we add two 
or four or six horses to overcome the resistance of mud or 
hill or heavy weight of load, so we add two or three or six 
or twelve cells to overcome the resistance of the human 
body and secure sufficient force or push (electro-motive 
force — E. M. F.) to force the current through the resist- 
ance interposed. 

BATTERY. 

A battery is a machine for the production of electricity. 
As the electric current is produced and may be used from 
the simplest form of cell, so this also may properly be called 
a battery. A combination of cells would be known under 
the same name, only designating whether the battery were 
composed of one, two, twelve or more cells, by mentioning 
the number in use or by stating it to be connected with city 
current. 

THE CIRCUIT. 

The circuit includes the constituents of the battery, the 
connecting wires and anything with which the free end of 
the wires may be connected. For instance, in illustration — 
should the operator hold a connecting wire from "c" in one 
hand and from "z" in the other, the circuit is completed 
and is called a "dosed circuit/' 



THE SKIN. 141 

Should, however, the first "z" and last "c" be connected 
directly by a short wire or by touching the tips of the 
connecting cords together, a "short circuit" is caused, de- 
stroying the efficiency of the battery by exhausting the cells. 

An open circuit is made by disconnecting the wires and 
thus putting the battery out of working order. 

POLES. 

The points from which the electric current enters and 
leaves, are called the poles. The positive pole is designated 
by the letter P or the sign + , the negative by the letter N 
or the sign — . 

BINDING POSTS. 

The metallic posts into which the conducting cords are 
placed are called "binding posts" and are designated by the 
letters P and N to show to which pole the cords may be at- 
tached in galvanic section, or P and S in faradic section, 
meaning primary and secondary. 

ELECTRODES. 

The instruments to which the conducting cords are fast- 
ened are known as electrodes. Thus a hair brush would be 
known as a "hair-brush electrode," a sponge as a "sponge 
electrode," the carbon cylinder as the "carbon electrode," 
etc. Oftentimes the expression "Apply the positive or the 
negative pole" confuses the beginner. These terms simply 
mean to apply the electrode connected with the positive or 
the negative current. 

CONDUCTORS. 

All materials or substances such as gold, silver, cop- 
per, etc., which readily permit electricity to pass over them, 
are called good conductors. The term conductors is applied 



142 THE SKIN. 

to the electrodes and cords by which they are attached to 
the battery. 

INSULATORS. 

Substances hindering the passage of electricity are 
called insulators. Among them may be named glass, rubber, 
shellac, etc. As an example of the necessity for insulation, 
the conducting cords may be taken. They are of wire, but 
are covered with silk or cotton, thus insulating them so 
that an accidental contact between the wrapped cords can- 
not produce a "short circuit" and thus exhaust the battery. 
In some work in which the operator only desires to obtain 
the action of the electric needle for a certain distance, all 
but the portion of the needle inserted beneath the skin will 
be covered with shellac, thus insulating, and preventing any 
trouble from accidental contact. 

In addition to a knowledge of the names of the various 
parts of the battery it is absolutely essential that the stu- 
dent be familiar with the electric measurements, that she 
may be able to realize at all times the quantity of current she 
is employing. 

The volt, ampere and ohm, are the first three measure- 
ments in electricity. 

VOLTAGE. 

Voltage, also called Electro-Motive-Force or E. M. F., 
is one of the component parts of electrical energy. It is in 
reality the pressure at which electricity is used and repre- 
sents the "push power." One volt is equivalent to the pres- 
sure from one Daniells cell. But although we may have a 
great amount of pressure and must know accurately what 
proportion we are using, it does not always follow that the 
quantity of electricity in use will be great, because we must 
also remember that the pressure is to be exerted against a 



THE SKIN. 143 

resisting force. It follows, therefore, that the current avail- 
able for performing work will be only the excess over what 
is required to overcome resistance. 

OHM. 

The ohm is the unit of resistance. Resistance may be 
well illustrated by this very simple example. Supposing a 
force of ten pounds were to be utilized for driving a steel 
pencil into first a block of stone, next a block of wood, and 
last of all a pat of butter. Naturally the steel would only by 
the exertion cf tremendous force — or voltage — make an 
impression on the stone, because the resistance would be so 
great. On the wood the resistance being far less, the same 
pressure would produce a greater effect, while with the but- 
ter the steel would have no difficulty at all, as the resistance 
would be practically nothing. 

As electricity is constantly used upon bodies having 
varying grades of resistance the ohm is therefore used as a 
unit of measurement, and technically one ohm is said to 
equal the resistance of a column of mercury 106 centimeters 
in length, having an area of cross-section of one square 
millimeter, at o degrees C. or 32 degrees F. 

AMPERAGE. 

The ampere is the unit of current and represents the 
amount of electricity that can be pushed through a resist- 
ance of one ohm by one volt of pressure. The ampere would 
of course be too much current for use in the work of apply- 
ing the electric current therapeutically, so for convenience 
sake has been divided into 1,000 parts called milliamperes. 

The human skin offers a decidedly high resistance to 
the passage of electricity, representing with ordinary sponge 
discs from 5,000 to 14,000 ohms. A battery of say 20 dry 



144 



THE SKIN. 



cells would when fresh represent a voltage of thirty. This 
interposed against the average body resistance of 6,000 
ohms, the quantity of current obtained could be found by 
dividing the number of volts by the number of ohms show- 
ing the body resistance and in this instance would therefore 
represent 1-200 of an ampere or about 5 milliamperes. 

MANNER OF MEASURING THE CURRENT. 

As all bodies differ in respect to the amount of resist- 
ance they interpose, and as in the human body different 
parts vary owing to the texture of the skin, presence of fat, 
etc., it can easily be seen that the resistance plays an impor- 
tant part in any operation in which electricity is used. Thus 
although one knows that the average cell when new can 

exert what is practically 
equivalent to one and a 
half volts of pressure, the 
amount of current used 
will naturally depend 
upon the resistance inter- 
posed, and hence the ne- 
cessity of knowing with 
some degree of accuracy 
how this current may be 
measured, for the voltage 
is only the propelling 

Mcintosh Improved Milliamperemeter power, it is the current 
Carpenter-Deprez Type, Pocket Form. (amperage) that accom- 
plishes results. The instrument used for the purpose of 
measuring the current passing through the patient is called 
a milliampere meter. By the use of this instrument, we can 
always tell just how much we are using, no matter what 
may be the resistance of the subject. It is therefore a very 
valuable and in fact a necessary part of every battery. 




THE SKIN. 



145 



MANNER OF CONTROLLING THE CURRENT. 

It has been explained that resistance is a most important 
factor, and must always be considered in the amount of cur- 
rent used for any treatment. In many batteries of the newer 
type the direct or street current is used as a means of supply 
and as the voltage varies 
from 90 to 500, it is some- 
times necessary to inter- 
pose a greater resistance 
than that offered by the 
body and hence the use of 
the "rheostat." When the 
rheostat is to be connected 
with the direct lighting 
current a Vetter series at- 
taching plug with 16 candle 
power lamp should be em- 
ployed. The attaching 
cords leading from the 
Vetter plug should be 

tested for polarity by dipping them in a glass of water, the 
negative pole being indicated by a great profusion of fine 
hydrogen bubbles ; this cord should be attached to the bind- 
ing post at back of rheostat marked "N," while the other 
cord should be attached to the binding post marked "P." 
After the connections are made and the current is turned on 
the rheostat regulates the current by means of a small arm 
which may be moved about until the meter registers the 
amount of current usually employed in the operation. This 
rheostat is also used in all large batteries and is extremely 
helpful in regulating the current. 




The MacLagan Wire Rheostat, 



146 THE SKIN. 



HOW TO SELECT A BATTERY. 



After studying the subject of electricity the student 
naturally desires to purchase a battery and immediately the 
question occurs, "what kind do I need?" Nine times out of 
ten, the matter has been decided not by considering the use 
to which the battery is to be placed, not by the fact that a 
good battery always costs more than a poor one, but simply 
by the question of price itself. 

The utter absurdity of such a course is apparent to any- 
one who realizes that as the electric current is now used in 
practically every treatment of the scalp and face, it is im- 
perative to procure a battery that will be capable of furnish- 
ing the different currents indicated for treatment of the con- 
ditions found. 

Of course, one must also take into consideration the 
manner in which the operator is obliged to employ the cur- 
rent. For instance if residence work is to be cared for, a 
portable battery is a necessity, and hence the number of cells 
must be limited. If one is a long distance from supply sta- 
tions or is living under climatic conditions that preclude the 
use of the dry cells, now so commonly employed, a wet cell 
battery must be purchased, while on the other hand if the 
work can be done in an office under the most favorable con- 
ditions and the city lighting current is direct, the wall-plate 
may be utilized. 

In any event, no matter what economy she may practice 
in other directions the operator who wishes to obtain pos- 
itively the best results, should without the slightest hesitation 
procure the very best outfit for her particular kind of work ; 
it is really upon the proper use of the electric current united 
with her other treatments, that she can base her fondest 
hopes for success. 



THE SKIN. 



147 



Ordinarily the average operator has purchased the 
faradic battery and has used it for every operation. The 
faradic current, the use of which will be explained later, is 
excellent in many cases, but the operator who hopes to give 
all treatments successfully by means of it and thus to limit 
her use of the electric current, cannot hope to do good work. 

Hence it will always be well to procure a battery that 
combines both currents, the galvanic and the faradic, and 
in this manner offers a much wider range for a variety of 
treatments. 




Mcintosh 14 Dry Cell E. & M. Battery, 



148 THE SKIN. 

For a portable battery, combining both currents, noth- 
ing better can be found than the form here illustrated. In 
this there are twelve cells for the galvanic portion and two 
for the faradic. It is so constructed that all the instruments 
in use may be packed closely into a section left for this pur- 
pose, while either portion may be repaired or changed with- 
out disturbing the other. A small switch circle makes the 
increase or decrease of active cells an easy matter. For a 
beginner this battery will be especially good, for while it is 
quite all that can be desired for the work of removing super- 
fluous hair, and minor facial blemishes, scalp stimulation, 
etc., it is also so simply constructed that the most diffident 
novice will be able to understand and use it sucessfully after 
carefully heeding the directions. 

The cost of recharging this battery is but trifling, and 
as with hard usage the cells last for six months, while with 
average use they will be good for at least eight, it can easily 
be seen that the battery will but seldom be out of working 
order, and at such times the delay will only be of a short 
duration, as the work of replacing the cells is simple indeed. 
As all cells, either wet or dry, are practically of the same 
strength in the beginning, the same rules that have been 
given for the use of the other battery wall apply in this, and 
as a rule four cells will be found all that will be necessary 
to use in the average treatment at first, although six and 
seven and even eight will usually have to be added gradually 
in the treatment of moles or warty growths, while ten and 
twelve may be used in giving the electrolytic massage. 

A more elaborate dry cell battery, furnished either with 
or without the rheostat and the milliampere meter, is also 
illustrated. The manner of using is the same as with the 
smaller form and the results will be found most excellent. 



THE SKIN. 



149 



This battery is decidedly in favor in sections where the 
direct lighting current cannot be utilized, and yet where the 
operator desires a heavier current for use in cataphoresis as 
well as for stimulation. 

THE MC INTOSH "SIMPLIFIED" 2*] DRY CELL GALVANIC AND 

FARADIC BATTERY. 

It is of similar construction to the Fourteen Dry Cell 
Combined Battery, and is fitted with twenty-seven dry cells 




The Mcintosh ' ' Simplified ' ' 27 Dry Cell Galvanic and Faradic Battery 



twenty-five being connected in the' galvanic circuit and two 
utilized for the faradic coil. 



150 



THE SKIN 



THE MC INTOSH 



i » 



ELABORATE 2J DRY CELL GALVANIC AND 
FARADIC BATTERY. 



In this battery the galvanic current is obtained from 
twenty-five dry cells connected in series, controlled by the 
MacLagan wire rheostat and measured by the Mcintosh 
improved milliampere meter, scale-reading O-150, and ob- 
tained from the binding posts facing the meter. 




The Mcintosh ' ' Elaborate " 27 Dry Cell Galvanic and Faradic Battery 

For office work, or where one uses a battery constantly 
•'""1 ran secure the direct dynamo current, a wall plate is 
most desirable. The great advantage in the use of this bat- 
tery hes m the fact that it is always ready for work, never 
gets on! of order, and provides a current that may be used 
7 CTV Jour of the day with practically no deviation in 
Strength. Phis battery also furnishes a current that may 
be used for any kind of treatment from the light work 



THE SKIX 



151 



necessary in all treatment of facial blemishes to the heavier 
currents customary where disorders of the system have to 
be considered. Where one desires to use -imply the gal- 
vanic current, the form of plate illustrated below, embracing 

rheostat and milliampere meter only, is practical. 




Galvanic Plate. 

1 he use of the milliampere meter makes the work far 
more satisfactory in many way-, as by glancing at the meter 
one can at a glance see exactly how much current the pa- 
tient is taking. 

The combined battery is really the ideal apparatus for 

the Operator who likes to feel that she lias at all times at her 

command, just the kind of eurrent she desires to use on any 
ea There is very little expense connected with a battery 
of tin's kind, and it is so useful and so complete that one 
who is once accustomed to it will prefer it to anything- else. 



152 



THE SKIN. 



Even in instances where the lighting current is not 
direct, it is possible to use a wall plate by securing a num- 
ber of dry cells and making the connections accordingly. 




Combined Galvanic and Faradic Plate. 



This form of battery can also be provided in a wall cabinet 
or in a case that will stand on the floor if one desires such 
an arrangement. For all practical purposes, however, just 
the plate itself is all that is necessary. 

When a fluid battery 
is found to be a necessity 
it may be obtained with 
cells varying from six to 
twenty-four, as desired. 
In the use of this form of 
battery, as in that of the 
dry cell, it will not be 
found practical to use 
anything smaller than the Mcintosh Galvanic and Faradic Battery 




THE SKIN 



153 



one in which there are twelve cells of the galvanic portion 
as well as suitable arrangement for the faradic section. 

Before attempting to charge and use a zinc-carbon 
bichromate fluid battery, the beginner will do well to heed 
the following directions. It is quite necessary to know how 
to make the fluid and fill the cell, as it is to make the proper 
connections and proceed with the work. Much difficulty 
may be avoided by sufficient care in mastering the prelimi- 
nary details. The battery fluid is made by means of the fol- 
lowing directions : 

To make the battery fluid : Sulphuric Acid, Commercial, 
3 fluid ounces ; powdered bichromate of soda, 3 ounces ; 
water, 16 fluid ounces ; bisulphate of mercury, 2 drachms. 
Dissolve the bisulphate of mercury in the water ; then add 
the bichromate of soda. Slowly pour in the sulphuric acid 
and stir until the ingredients are dissolved, then allow the 
liquid to cool, as the mingling of the acid and water pro- 
duces heat, and if the mixture is used when warm it injures 
the battery. , 

The bisulphate of mercury keeps the zincs well amal- 
gamated. 




Figure 1. 



Figure 2. 






154 THE SKIN. 

Fig. I shows the hard rubber plate of a section (on 
the under surface of which is cemented a sheet of soft rub- 
ber). The binding posts which project through the hard 
and soft rubber screw into the brass piece holding the zinc 
and carbon couples. The rubber plate on which the couples 
are clamped projects over on one side enough to cover the 
cells when the zinc and carbon plates are placed in the drip 
cups. When the cells are not in use and the lid of the bat- 
tery box is closed, it presses on the spring handle of the 
section (Fig. i) and holds the soft rubber firmly over the 
cells and drip cup. B\ T this arrangement the hydrostat is 
made water-tight. 

Fig. 2 shows a section of six cells and a drip cup made 
of one piece of hard vulcanized rubber. The drip cup is to 
receive the zinc and carbon couples when not in use. 

By the aid of a simple current selector any number of 
cells can be used. (See cut.) 

To use six galvanic cells lift section I and remove the 
elements from the drip cup ; carry forward and place them 
in the galvanic cells ; then connect one conducting cord with 
Pi and the other with N6 (all parts marked P are positive 
and N negative). 

To use twelve cells lift section 2 from the drip cup, 
move it forward near section 1 and place the elements in the 
galvanic cells ; connect N6 with P7 by means of the horizon- 
tal bar and the conducting cords, one with Pi and the other 
with N12. 

The bifurcated or forked cord is for the purpose of 
preventing a shock while changing to a less or greater num- 
ber of cells while using the galvanic current. For example : 
Suppose you are using seven cells. One of the bifurcated 
ends would be connected with cell No. 7 and the other end 



THE SKIN. 



155 



hanging' loose. If you wish to use, say, twelve cells, take 
up the loose end of the bifurcated cord and connect it with 
No. 12 before you pull the other end out from No. 7. Thus 
all shock is avoided in the change. The same method of 
procedure is necessary to prevent shock when reducing the 
number of cells in use. 




Figure 3. 



Figure 4. 



To use the faradic section of the battery holding the 
coil lift the section marked O from the cell and drip cup, 
fill the large cell half full of battery fluid, reverse the sec- 
tion and place the elements in the large cell C and the bat- 
tery will commence to work at once, which may be known 
by the buzzing of the rheotome. To ob f ain the primary 
current insert the tips of the conducting cord in posts P and 
N, on either side of "prim." To obtain the secondary cur- 
rent insert the cord tips in post N and P on either side of 
"Sec." Either current can be made stronger by drawing 
out the shield in the coil. 

To connect the coil with one or more galvanic cells : 







156 THE SKIN. 

In a case of emergency, like an attempt to resuscitate a 
person from drowning, where greater intensity is needed 
than one cell will give, the coil can be connected with the 
galvanic cells of section i by means of the long, spiral wires, 
as follows: Reverse the coil section, immerse the elements 
of section i and connect post A near the coil with post Pi 
on section i, and post B on coil with post 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, on 
section 1. 

Sometimes the inexperienced operator will say : "I 
have fluid made according to formula, but I cannot obtain 
a current even from tw r elve cells. When I immerse the 
elements in the fluid the liquid boils or froths and the bat- 
tery gets hot, the zincs are rapidly eaten up, but I get no 
current." When such conditions are observed it shows that 
the battery fluid is not made according to formula, but con- 
tains too much acid. When the battery fluid contains large 
excess of acid the zinc is rapidly destroyed, the fluid bub- 
bles or boils and becomes hot. Hydrogen gas is generated, 
but no electricity. The remedy in such a case is to add on- 
third to one-half its volume of water to the battery fluid. 

Diluted acid acts very slowly upon the zinc ; there is no 
violent action ; the fluid does not become hot ; there is very 
little generation of hydrogen gas, but a good and constant 
current of galvanic electricity. 

The Mcintosh galvanic battery is constructed with 
its metallic cord tip fitting firmly into the metallic 
binding post, which in its turn is screwed firmly into the 
metallic bridge, and this bridge securely fastened by metal- 
lic connection to the zinc and carbon plates, so that when 
the zinc and carbon elements are in good condition, and the 
fluid properly compounded, and the conducting cords all 
right, it is impossible to avoid getting a satisfactory current 



THE SKIN. 157 

through the electrodes when the elements are immersed in 
the fluid. 

By glancing over this list, it will be quickly seen that 
the variety of batteries described, offers any operator a 
very good opportunity for making a choice of exactly the 
kind of an apparatus most convenient and suitable. Conse- 
quently she has but to consider the uses to which her battery 
must be put, the conditions under which it must be oper- 
ated, the opportunities for obtaining any supplies she needs, 
and after giving each subject the consideration it deserves 
she can easily make her selection, remembering always that 
true economy consists in buying the best instruments and 
the most modern equipment. 

THE USE OF THE GALVANIC CURRENT. 
ELECTROLYSIS. 

Electrolysis is the process of resolving a chemical sub- 
stance into its elements by means of the use of electricity, 
or, in other words, to chemically decompose it by means of 
the current. 

In the work of removing facial blemishes such as the 
destruction of superfluous hair, warts, moles, naevi, reduc- 
tion of enlarged capillaries and treatments of this nature 
the electrolytic process is always used and hence the neces- 
sity for the galvanic current. 

For work of this kind, nothing smaller than a twelve- 
cell battery should be provided, because as there is a great 
difference in the amount of resistance in different subjects, 
and as hence some patients require the use of more cells 
than others and as in this manner the number brought into 
circuit for operations of this kind will vary from four to 
eight and even ten, it can readily be seen that a battery 



158 



THE SKIN 



composed of fewer cells could not possibly be practical for 
all occasions. 

Before commencing the study of how to proceed in 
this work of electrolysis it is really necessary that the stu- 
dent should understand the differentiation between the 
negative and the positive pole and should be made thor- 
oughly familiar with the methods of testing the batteries. 

It has previously been explained that in the cell the 
zinc is the positive pole because the current flows from it, 
but that outside of the fluid the order is reversed and the 
carbon terminal is always called the positive and the zinc 
the negative. 

Certain important peculiarities are attached to these 
poles and in fact the whole theory of treatment by means 
of the electric current rests on a proper understanding of 
these properties. 

THE POSITIVE POLE. 

The positive pole has an acid re-action. It releases 
oxygen. It will stop bleeding and is therefore indicated 
in the treatment of a hemorrhage. It hardens the tissue, 
and so can be used for making the flesh firmer, as in the 
treatment for flabbiness. It is sedative, and hence is always 
indicated for use over painful surfaces or for treatments of 
strained muscles, wry neck, neuralgia of the face, head, etc. 
It is an acid caustic, leaving a hard unyielding cicatrix, and 
hence should never be employed for the purpose of remov- 
ing a facial blemish. It is called a "vaso-constrictor" be- 
cause it causes a constriction of the blood supply and is 
therefore useful in reducing the redness caused by an over- 
supply of blood to the surface. For this same reason and 
on account of the sedative action of the current, the use of 
the ball electrode after removal of superfluous hair, treat- 



THE SKIN. 159 

ment of acne, etc., is excellent not only for removing the 
soreness but also in reducing any inflammation. 

THE NEGATIVE POLE. 

The negative pole has an alkaline re-action. It re- 
leases hydrogen, as seen by the tiny bubbles of gas always 
appearing about the needle when the process of electrolysis 
is performed. It increases bleeding, and produces a hyper- 
sensitive condition, hence should not be used on a tender 
or inflamed surface. It liquefies and disintegrates, thus is 
necessary in the removal of hair, treatment of obstinate 
pimples, and removal of blackheads that refuse to yield to 
the ordinary pressure. It is an alkaline caustic, leaving a soft, 
pliable cicatrix. For this reason it is indicated in the work 
of removing all facial blemishes, as the danger of causing a 
scar is thus removed. It is a "vaso-dilator ;" that is, it 
causes an increased blood supply and is thus excellent in 
any treatment for the face or scalp in which one is anxious 
to increase the circulation to that portion. 

By remembering these facts in connection with the 
use of each pole the student can in a few moments' thought 
easily decide which one is best for active application. In 
short, the knowledge of the action of these poles means 
everything, for it can easily be seen that should the positive 
pole be used in a treatment in which the negative is neces- 
sary, the results would be exactly contrary to those desired. 

Another point upon which the student should be in- 
formed is the method of testing the battery to see whether 
the polarity has changed. In the use of a wall plate con- 
nected with the lighting circuit, this is especially necessary. 
Hence, the careful operator will always be provided with 
the necessary materials and will invariably test her battery 
before applying the current. 



160 THE SKIN. 

RULES FOR DETERMINING POLARITY. 

1st. Turn on the current, and immerse the tips of the 
conducting cords about an inch apart in a cup of. salt water. 
Immediately the bubbles of hydrogen gas will form about 
the negative needle, or 2nd, moisten blue litmus paper with 
clear water and attach the tips to the strip. The portion 
that the positive pole touches will immediately become red. 

Another rule that may be of assistance -to the beginner 
is that for detecting the presence of the current itself. Often 
the beginner becomes confused and declares that her bat- 
tery is not working, when by knowing how to test for the 
current, she could easily prove it. 

HOW TO DETECT THE GALVANIC CURRENT. 

Put one sponge, well wet in the palm of the hand, and 
let the other be held between the thumb and the first finger 
of the same hand. A slight pricking sensation will be ex- 
perienced. Those only accustomed to the induced or far- 
adic current will be disappointed to find that the galvanic 
current causes only a slight burning or pricking sensation, 
or when applied to the head a slight dizziness. A galvanic 
current that is too strong to be applied to the head can 
hardly be felt in the hand. Acute sensation or shock from 
the galvanic current is only experienced when the current 
is suddenly broken. 

In the use of electrolysis, many points are to be con- 
sidered not only in regard to the peculiarities of tempera- 
ment and sensibility but also in respect to the work itself. 

Rockwell says: "There is a great difference in the 
average susceptibility of different nationalities and of the 
higher and lower orders of society with occasional excep- 
tions both ways. The tough, coarse-fibered laboring classes 



THE SKIN. 161 

are much less susceptible to electricity just as they are less 
susceptible to drugs than the delicate, finely organized, 
brain-working class." 

Different sections of the same face also varv in this 
respect, the region about the mouth and nose being particu- 
larly susceptible, while the middle of the cheeks and chin 
can usually be operated on without any complaint. Another 
singularity is observed in the manner in which the current 
of the same strength affects the same person on different 
days. For instance, in the work of removing superfluous 
hair or moles, six cells may be easily tolerated on Tuesday 
when on Thursday only four can be borne with comfort, or 
it may be even necessary to increase to eight. Hence the 
careful operator will always do well to commence the treat- 
ment with as low a current as possible, gradually bring 
more into circuit, thus avoiding any danger of shock. 

Ordinarily, however, it may be said that the average 
operator experiences absolutely no difficulty in this work, as 
for the one person who is extremely sensitive there will be 
found one hundred who do not in the least object to the use 
of the needle. 

POSSIBILITY OF PRODUCING SCARS. 

As the action of the electric current when used by in- 
troducing the needle into the tissues is to disintegrate and 
decompose, it may be easily seen that it will therefore be 
necessary to limit both the amount of current used, and the 
area of skin treated in order to avoid such a destruction of 
tissue as to leave a visible mark in the shape of a scar. 

It is true that in many cases in which hair has been re- 
moved, the resulting scars have been quite as disfiguring as 
the hairs were originally, but in every instance of this kind, 



162 THE SKIN. 

the result was caused either by an ignorant operator, or by 
an improper use of the electric current. 

It is also true that some tissue must be destroyed, but 
by care this amount will be so microscopical that only ex- 
amination under a magnifying glass with a strong light will 
show any signs of the operation. This same statement ap- 
plies to the removal of moles and to the treatment of pim- 
ples. In every instance where proper care is employed the 
result will be a skin free from any disfiguring marks. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

THE REMOVAL OF SUPERFLUOUS HAIR. 

Hypertrichosis, or an abnormal growth of hair, is the 
cause of more real heart-aches than any other defect of the 
skin. It may be congenital and consist of an unusual hairi- 
ness of the entire body, with of course the exception of the 
palms, soles and other regions where no hair follicles are 
to be found, or it may be local, as in the case of a hairy 
mole, a grow T th on the upper lip or chin. 

The causes of this affliction are never apparent and the 
only really plausible or satisfactory explanation that can be 
given is that it is a freak of nature. In some instances the 
tendency to such a growth is certainly hereditary. In others, 
the face may be absolutely free from any sign of such a 
growth until all of a sudden a luxuriant growth appears, as 
though by magic. Some of the victims are found in excel- 
lent health, others are invalids. Some are married, others 
are maiden ladies of uncertain age. Some have used mas- 
sage and ointments for protecting and beautifying the skin, 
others have never even thought of employing any aid 
toward beauty and only apply for relief from the growth of 
hair because they feel it to be a mark of masculinity. 

In many instances this growth is only found as middle 
life is approached, and in some cases after the age of fifty, 
even without the aid of the electric needle, it has disap- 
peared. In several cases that came under my observation, 
in which the growth was truly disheartening and was more 
of the nature of a beard, improvement in general condition 
and a trifling operation seemed to be factors in causing it 
to disappear. 



164 



THE SKIN. 



"Fox says : 'The idea that sea-bathing or the persistent 
use of vaseline on the face will cause an abnormal growth 
of hair, is too fantastic for serious discussion. No proof of 
the assertion is ever shown, and how such an erroneous idea 
originated, is difficult to imagine. " 

In any event the only practical remedy is the removal 
of this growth by means of electrolysis, and in order to do 
the work successfully it will be well to heed the following 
suggestions. First of all, of course, is the question of the 
battery, and as explained before, this should never be less 
than twelve cells. Should the wall plate be used instead of 
the portable battery the procedure would be exactly the 
same excepting that of course the current used would be 
registered by the milliampere meter and care would be 
taken to use the lightest possible quantity to begin the treat- 
ment. 

In addition to the battery there will be found necessary 
a pair of epilation forceps, a hard rubber needle holder, a 
magnifying glass, needles of various sizes, and, whenever 
the work is to be done away from the direct light, the head 
lamp. 




Hard Rubber Needle Holder. 

If it has been impossible to obtain instruction in this work 
the beginner who wishes to attempt the process will do well 




Hard Rubber Needle Holder. 




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166 



THE SKIN. 



to practice first upon the coarse hairs found on the arms 
and hands of those inclined to this growth. The first trial 
will show that practice is the most essential point in good 
work, for not only a knowledge of the proper procedure is 




Depilatory Forceps, 
required, but also a sure eye and a steady hand. 




Magnifying Glass. 

The patient should be seated in a comfortable position 
or possibly better still, should assume a nearly reclining 
position in such a manner that the direct light will fall upon 
the portion to be operated upon. The battery may then be 
brought into play and after the current is turned on to say 
four cells as a beginning, the patient may be instructed to 
hold the well moistened electrode, and the bulbous needle 
should then be passed gently down the side of the hair into 
the follicle. As shown in the cut on the skin there is a 
slight constriction at the mouth of the follicle, so many 
times this little impediment to the passage of the needle will 
occur. Ordinarily, however, the use of the needle causes 
the entrance to be effected very easily, and in fact it is by 
the sense of touch as well as by evidence of the eyes that 



THE SKIN. 



167 



the expert operator knows she is doing good work. In Fig. 
B the needle is shown after it has entered the follicle, rest- 
ing by the side of the hair. 

The object in using a needle attached to the electric cur- 
rent is to destroy the tissue 
composing the hair papillae. 
Naturally, a small portion of 
the surrounding tissue must 
be affected by the current, 
and the problem confronting 
the operator is how to remove 
the hair growth with as little 
destruction of tissue as possi- 
ble. It has been found by ex- 
periment that the negative 
current is by far the best for 
this purpose, and hence it is 
always employed, as the effect 
on the tissue is not only less 
severe, but the danger of 
scarring is not nearly so great. 

Note — When the positive pole is used, it is essential 
that the needle be either gold (not gold plated) or plati- 
num, as these metals are not attacked or corroded by the 
current. If a steel needle is used as the positive pole, a de- 
posit of iron salt will be left in the hair follicle, and a black 
scar will inevitably result. An additional reason for giving 
preference always to the negative current is that negative 
electrolysis produces alkaline hydrates, destroys less tissue, 
and allows the needle to be easily withdrawn. Positive 
electrolysis, on the contrary, releases oxygen acids, coagu- 
lates the albumen, destroys tissue and causes the needle to 




Magnifying Glass Mounted on 
Head Band. 



168 THE SKIN. 

adhere, making it difficult to withdraw the needle without 
lacerating the tissue. 

In order to destroy the hair, it is necessary to enter the 
follicle with a bulbous or pointed needle, the majority of 
the operators preferring the bulbous variety. The depth 
of the follicle varies greatly, in some instances being not 
more than one thirty-second of an inch, while in others it 
is fully one-quarter of an inch. In finding the follicle it 
will be necessary to insert the needle as closely as possible 
by the side of the hair. The difference in the sensation of 
touch when the right path has been entered is usually suffi- 
cient proof of success. 

At any rate, when everything is in readiness the needle 
is inserted as directed, and is continued until it meets a 
slight obstacle. There it must pause, while the patient 
grasps the positive electrode in her hand, thus completing 
the circuit. 

If the follicle has been entered, in about twenty sec- 
onds, bubbles of hydrogen gas will commence to appear 
about the site of entrance and in about fifty or sixty sec- 
onds the hair may be grasped by the epilation forceps and a 
gentle traction exerted. If the process of destruction is 
complete the hair will come out easily. If not, the current 
should be continued for about a minute and then the same 
effort made. If at this last attempt the hair does not con- 
sent to come, it will be well to remove it forcibly and then 
use the needle for still another insertion. This procedure 
will only be found necessary in a few cases as the expert op- 
erator is nearly always able to enter the follicle and thus 
dislodge the hair. 

In many cases advice has been given to have the needle 
inserted before the patient grasps the electrode and to have 




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170 THE SKIN. 

the grasp on the electrode loosened before the needle is 
withdrawn. In actual work this practice is neither satis- 
factory nor advisable. Many patients persistently loosen 
their grasp and thus interfere with the work and others be- 
come hysterical unless consulted each time before the hair 
is withdrawn. Hence the most practical manner is to have 
the electrode either held in the hand from the very com- 
mencement of the treatment or else placed on some indiff- 
erent portion before the treatment is commenced. Work 
on the coarse hair of the hands or legs will be excellent 
practice, before working on the face. 

Aside from the regular equipment mentioned Fox says, 
"Good eyesight and a steady hand are as strictly essential 
as they are in rifle shooting. But many a man thus en- 
dowed can never acquire^ the art of repeatedly hitting the 
bull's eye, and many physicians I have found have failed to 
acquire the peculiar knack of introducing the needle into the 
follicle without pricking the skin. Some simply jab it into 
the skin as near the follicle as possible and thereby give rise 
to the erroneous impression that the operation is a very 
painful one and apt to leave scars." 

THE SELECTION OF THE NEEDLE. 

The selection of a needle is an important item in this 
operation, and the point should always be examined with a 
strong glass that we may be able to ascertain its shape. An 
ordinary jewelers' broach will do if the point be ground off 
on an oil stone and its temper drawn by heating, but the 
bulbous pointed needle, as recommended by the late Dr. P. 
S. Hayes, a magnified drawing of which is here shown in 
Figure A, is best suited for the work. There are several 
very important reasons why a sharp-pointed needle should 



THE SKIN 



171 



not be used : First, there is a depression in the epidermis at 
the base of every hair, very plainly shown in Figure B. The 
bulbous-pointed needle will always find this depression, 




Figure A. 



while the sharp-pointed needle is just as liable to miss it, 
and not get into the hair follicle at all. Again, the hair fol- 
licles are not always the same depth or the same direction, 
but the sheath surrounding the hair is tough ; in fact, it 
takes considerable pressure to force the bulbous-pointed 
needle through, and it naturally will find the 
proper depth, while, as Dr. Hayes remarks, 
"the sharp needle would, in many cases, pene- 
trate the walls of the follicle and wander 
into the tissue far from the desired point, 
and failure rather than success would be re- 
corded. " Many hairs are removed with sharp- 
pointed needles, and many writers advocate 
their use, but success is purely accidental. 
Figure B shows a magnified hair shaft and 
follicle into which a sharp-pointed needle has 
been plunged and has not entered the depres- 
sion at the free surface of the skin, but which 
has accidentally penetrated the sheath from 
without and gained access to the papilla. Of 
course, such hair will be permanently destroyed. By refer- 
ring again to Figure B, it will be noticed that the sheath is 
narrowest at the top or at the point of insertion of the 
hair shaft into the epidermis, which shows the necessity of 




Figure B. 



172 THE SKIN. 

actually following the hair shaft with the needle in order 
to be certain of entering the follicle. 

Again, the bulbous needle presents a larger surface 
within the hair follicles, the benefit of which is apparent. 

The illustration — Figure 21 — shows how the work may 
be performed. 

Caution must be observed in several particulars in this 
work, and it may be well to impress upon the beginner that, 
first of all, it is wiser to use a weak current for a long time 
than a strong current for a short time. In removing hair 
it is never advisable to continue the current for more than 
a minute or a minute and a quarter, unless the hair is very 
coarse and bristly. Of course, in this instance it must be 
used as needed. Too many insertions in the same sections 
should be avoided in order to prevent an inflammation, thus 
making work impossible for several days. By using dis- 
cretion in selecting different places upon the face the work 
may be continued for at least twice as long as where it is 
confined to one portion, and treatments may be given in this 
manner as often as every other day until the hairs are 
removed. 

DESIRABLE CONDITION OF THE SKIN. 

The skin should be as dry as possible, and if any mois- 
ture is present in excess it should be removed and the flesh 
powdered. If the action of the current seems too painful, 
the positive electrode may first be used for the purpose of 
forcing in a solution of cocaine. This is never desirable, 
however, excepting in the most extreme cases. 

LENGTH OF TREATMENT. 

As a rule no treatment should last for more than half 
an hour, as the strain is too great both on patient and oper- 




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. 



174 THE SKIN. 

ator. About sixty hairs may be removed in an hour,, unless 
they are extremely obstinate. No section of the face should 
have much work done on it at a time as there is danger of 
producing an extensive inflammation and thus preventing 
work for some time and, too, there is more danger of pro- 
ducing scars. 

STERILIZATION. 

Although some authors declare the current to be an 
antiseptic, caution should be employed in the work of steril- 
izing the needles, and it is never advisable to enter a pustule 
or small pimple and then attempt to remove the hair imme- 
diately afterwards, as there will always be danger of infec- 
tion unless the needle is thoroughly sterilized between times. 

DO THE HAIRS RETURN ? 

If the hair has been properly removed it is impossible 
for a return to occur, because the follicle has been destroyed. 
There may be other hair coming in near that same place or 
perhaps the hair will seem to have a tendency to multiply, 
but in no case has it been proved that the use of the electric 
current encouraged such a tendency. Women troubled 
with these growths are always much more sensitive and 
consult their mirrors so frequently and so closely after 
treatments, that they can see many discouraging symptoms 
not perceptible to the operator. In any instance, however, 
the proportion of returns can never be called higher than 
four per cent when a skilful operator has been employed. 
Oftentimes the new hairs coming in are a result of the pa- 
tient's previous efforts to dislodge them some weeks or days 
before by means of the forceps. 



THE SKIN. 175 

AFTER TREATMENT. 

At the close of the sitting the skin should be thoroughly 
coated with the zinc ointment and then the ball electrode 
covered with cotton moistened in salt and water and placed 
to the positive pole should be used for gentle though firm 
pressure on all the spots operated upon. The use of this 
electrode should continue for some minutes until most of 
the redness has disappeared. All the superfluous creme 
may then be removed, the vegetable powder dusted over the 
skin and the patient allowed to depart. In every case, 
though, she should be cautioned not to scratch or in any 
other manner to irritate the skin ; not to use soap or water, 
but to use only the zinc ointment for cleansing and mas- 
saging. In this manner any danger of future trouble is 
avoided and, in fact, it may be said that this is the most 
effective manner of keeping the skin from looking at any 
.time inflamed. 



CHAPTER XIX. 

TREATMENT OF MOLES, WARTS AND PORT-WINE MARKS. 

Many times the operator is consulted in regard to the 
treatment of pigmented elevations of the skin, ordinarily 
known as moles. These deposits of pigment are by no 
means uncommon and may be found in many forms. In 
some instances the growths are like warts and are technical- 
ly known as naevus verrucosus. In others they are level 
with the skin, but bountifully supplied with a hairy growth 
and are called naevus pilosus. Instances of this kind are 
reported in which large surfaces of the skin have been cov- 
ered by a growth of this kind, giving the victim the appear- 
ance of an animal. 

Then there are the large unpigmented moles without 
hair called fibromata, and oftentimes found with the other 
variety of naevi or by themselves and in many portions of 
the face are the vascular naevi of which there are many 
varieties ranging from the port wine mark to the disfiguring 
condition known as angioma cavernosum in which it is diffi- 
cult to distinguish any other tissue. 

The treatment of any of these conditions is, of course, 
bv the careful use of the negative galvanic electrode in the 
shape of a needle suited to the size and kind of growth that 
is to be operated upon. 

Many authors contend that when the marks to be re- 
moved exceed one-third to one-half an inch in diameter, a 
knife is preferable to the needle. This is. however, not 
the case when the needle can be used by a good operator 
with sufficient caution not to cause too much of an inflam- 



THE SKIN. 177 

mation, and with the willingness to give as many sittings as 
the case seems to demand. In one case in which there were 
28 moles on one side of a face, two of them were fully one- 
half an inch in diameter while any number were from one- 
quarter to one-third of an inch across, the entire number 
were removed in the course of two months' treatment with- 
out leaving a single scar. 

In all of these instances, however, the treatments were 
given with just current enough to show a decided reaction. 
The moment the growth was thoroughly affected the treat- 
ment was closed, the positive ball electrode was used all 
about the surface surrounding the growth and the zinc 
oxide ointment was applied freely and treatments were only 
given after every sign of inflammation had disappeared. 

In another case the subject was afflicted by a hairy 
gowth fully an inch and a half long, just on the side of the 
cheek. Much care was exerted in the treatment of this 
form of naevus as the hair was very fine and abundant and 
had to be removed before the growth itself could be treated. 
However, at the end of the tenth sitting the growth had 
been reduced two-thirds, and after the fifteenth the hairs 
were all removed and nothing remained but a slightly ele- 
vated pink surface. By constant attention and applications 
of the zinc oxide ointment the color soon faded out and now 
it is only by the closest observation that one can distinguish 
a sign of a scar. 

In still another instance the subject presented herself 
with a decidedly disfiguring growth right on the end of her 
nose. It appeared to belong to the family called naevus 
lipomatodes — that is the elevation looked like that of a small 
fatty tumor, only there were also present dilated capillaries. 

Treatments were commenced by the use of the negative 



178 THE SKIN. 

needle as usual, but as the results seemed too slow, another 
needle was added and the negative needle was placed at the 
base of the growth parallel with the normal skin while the 
positive needle was of gold (so that it would not corrode) 
and was just gently touched to the top of the growth. The 
effects were seen very readily and the growth disappeared 
with remarkable and gratifying rapidity, leaving nothing 
but a very slight depression to mark the former site. 

The treatment of any of these growths will be very 
much the same as in every instance the negative needle is 
the active assistant. In cases in which the presence of hair 
complicates the work, the hair must be removed iirst of 
all, and here it will be well to state that it is neither wise nor 
desirable to remove all the hair from any growth at any one 
sitting as the same rules that apply to other treatments with 
the electric needle hold good here, and so to avoid causing 
an extensive inflammation and a correspondingly great de- 
struction of tissue, due caution must be observed. 

After the hair has been removed in the usual manner, 
the needle should be inserted as near the base as possible, 
transfixing the growth from as many points as seem neces- 
sary. That is the use of the needle might be said to be 
planned on the idea of the spokes used in a wheel, always 
passing from the outside to the center. 

In Illustration 24 the manner of giving the ordinary 
treatment will be seen. 

When the growth is exceptionally large and the cur- 
rent does not produce a satisfactory reaction it is well to 
employ both needles in the work by inserting the negative 
needle at the base of the growth and using the positive at 
the top as in Figure 24. 

In this work, however, one must alwavs be cautioned 




'S. 



;- 



- 



180 THE SKIX. 

about the use of the positive needle as it clings to the flesh 
and if a steel needle is used a deposit of iron salt is left on 
the flesh and a black scar will inevitably result. Hence the 
necessity in every operation of this kind for selecting either 
a gold (not gold-plated) or a platinum needle. 

The length of the treatment will depend entirely upon 
the reaction observed and here it may be stated that as a 
general rule it is only wise to prolong the treatment until 
the growth appears to be thoroughly blanched and a tiny 
red line of demarkation may be seen separating the pig- 
mented tissues from the other. In some cases this appears 
very quickly, in others takes a longer time, but in every 
case it is sure to be observed, and is the most reliable guide. 

So,, too, with the number of treatments. If they are 
given too near together, that is before every particle of in- 
flammation has subsided, there will be an undue destruction 
of healthy tissue and a scar will positively result. If, how- 
ever, care is observed in this respect and the time between 
the treatments properly arranged the results will be all that 
one could desire. 

In any instance these rules are to be followed. 

After carefully sterilizing the needle to be used, it will 
be introduced into the growth first from one direction then 
from another, and so on until the current has thoroughly 
penetrated and blanched the pigment. The subject in the 
meantime, will hold the positive electrode in her hand. As 
soon as the tiny line of demarkation is seen, or a decidedly 
pink hue is observed in the surrounding flesh, the treatment 
is stopped, the portion operated upon is anointed with the 
zinc oxide mixture, the surrounding flesh is treated with the 
positive ball electrode. In a few moments the superfluous 
ointment may be removed, the flesh powdered and the 



THE SKIN. 181 

patient allowed to depart with strict instruction to refrain 
from touching the growth in any way excepting to apply the 
ointment. 

Should the growth treated be upon the neck or on some 
portion of the body where there is any danger of irritation, 
a cap such as used in covering the site of a vaccinated por- 
tion, should be employed to protect the subject from any 
danger of infection. 

This, of course, applies only to growths of quite a size. 
The tiny growths sometimes found on the necks in great 
numbers need not be covered in this manner as very fre- 
quently just one treatment will cause them to dry away and 
disappear. 

( )ftentimes even large growths will require but two or 
three treatments, but ordinarily quite a number will be 
needed, and the conscientious operator will not hesitate to 
give her time as often as she finds it necessary. For this 
reason it is advisable in making a price for the removal of a 
mole to charge not for each treatment, but for the removal 
of the growth, whether it be necessary to employ one or one 
hundred sittings to affect the purpose. 

Ordinarily no trouble will be encountered in giving a 
treatment. Occasionally, however, if the subject is super- 
sensitive it will be well for the operator to hold the skin sur- 
rounding the portion operated upon betw r een the thumb and 
first finger of one hand while she uses the needle with the 
other. This method is said to greatly lessen the sensation 
and is shown plainly in Illustration. Figure 23. 

Should any infection take place through the careless- 
ness of the subject, there will be found a decidedly red, 
angry looking portion with a scab at the top of the growth 
that can easily be loosened. In any instance of this kind it 



182 THE SKIN. 

will be well to gently lift the side of the scab and squeeze 
into the cavity some peroxide of hydrogen, until every parti- 
cle of pus has been removed. Then cover the portion with 
a wet dressing made by immersing gauze in a saturated so- 
lution of boracic acid and instruct the subject to bathe the 
part affected several times a day with this liquid. It is need- 
less to remark in this connection that no further work can 
possibly be attempted, until every sign of inflammation has 
disappeared. 

TREATMENT OF VASCULAR NAEVI. 

Naevi consists of dilated and hypertrophied or newly 
formed arteries, veins and capillaries, usually covered with 
a normal epidermis and varying in color from the arterial 
naevi that are bright red to the venous ones of dark blue or 
violet. 

The form called Telangiectasis is more commonly ob- 
served and is seen on the cheeks and nose consisting of a 
vascular overgrowth without an increase in connective tis- 
sue. The capillaries and the fine arterial and venous 
branches are involved, forming a simple stain of the skin or 
appearing as a net work surrounding a central spot called 
naevus araneus. The color varies from bright red to a 
bluish purple depending upon which of the arterial or 
venous branches preponderate, and the size is from that of 
an ordinary pinhead upwards. These Telangiectasis form 
a part of the most troublesome feature in acne rosacea and 
are very commonly observed in middle life, increasing and 
progressing as the patient progresses toward old age. 

The most effective and satisfactory treatment is that 
in which the electric needle is employed and ordinarily this 
method is best. The patient may hold the positive electrode 




Fig. 25. Growth in Neck Removed by Electricity in Fifteen 

Treatments. 






184 THE SKIN. 

in the hand, the skin surrounding the growth may then be 
held firmly by the operator between the thumb and first 
finger. Almost immediately it will be observed that in the 
central portion, the blood supply becomes much more evi- 
dent. Into this portion the negative needle may be intro- 
duced and allowed to remain for some few seconds, possibly 
a minute. As it is withdrawn frequently there is a slight 
hemorrhage from the spot. This need excite no alarm, 
however, as it usually stops in a few moments. The capil- 
laries radiating out from the center may then each be en- 
tered by the needle, using for this purpose a very fine one. 
The treatment may be finished as before with the use of the 
positive ball electrode and an application of the zinc oxide 
ointment. 

Where the Telangiectasis are found on the nose the 
same treatment is indicated always firmly pressing the flesh 
between the fingers first in order to be able to determine the 
chief source of supply. 

The strength of the current will vary from four to 
eight cells from the battery or from one-quarter to two and 
even more milliamperes from the wall plate usually gauging 
it by the amount the patient can endure. 

In any case where the hemorrhage seems to persist an 
unusual time this can be avoided by reversing the current 
and inserting the gold needle attached to the positive elec- 
trode, when immediately the difficulty will be remedied. 

The relief and improvement afforded to sufferers from 
this disfiguring condition by the simple use of electrolysis 
is such a reward that the enthusiastic operator frequently 
insists upon doing this work for her patients whether they 
desire it or not. Much superstition has attached itself to 
the subject of the naevus arenous or so called "spider 



THE SKIN. 



185 



cancers" and so sometimes more than the ordinary argu- 
ment will be necessary in order to convince the patient that 
no harm will be done. 

Port wine marks can be removed by the simple process 
of tatooing the flesh. Of course, w r here these marks are so 
extensive as to cover a great portion of the face, sometimes 
it is wiser to resort to other means as in this case a white 
more or less scarred surface would certainly result. Ordin- 
arily, however, the process can be used to great advantage. 
If the discoloration is small, the platinum needle may be 




Needle Disc. 

For the removal of "Pigmentary Naevus" 

or wine marks. 

used, attached, of course, to the negative pole. This needle 
should be inserted first in the center of the growth, and then 
at least five punctures should be made in the tiny capillaries 
which radiate from this source. Should the growth be 
larger, the second method may be employed. This calls for 
the use of the needle disc, and in this method the entire area 
is treated by a single application of the numerous points. In 
some instances, much blood escapes from the tiny apertures. 
This generally lasts but for a few moments, and is of no 
consequence. If, however, it seems desirable to alleviate this 
condition, the application of the positive electrode by means 
of a platinum needle will almost instantly produce the de- 
sired result. 



186 



THE SKIN 



IMPORTANT FEATURES OF AN OUTFIT. 

The three features which are considered by most derma- 
tologists in the selection of a battery and outfit for this class 
of work are, in their respective importance ; Reliability, sim- 
plicity and portability. 

The twelve-cell fluid battery must ever hold the palm 
for entire reliability, but there are many operators who 
will insist upon the convenience of the simple and more 
easily portable dry cell battery, and to all such we commend 



r CHICAGO 1 , ~ ,: 




Mcintosh Dry Cell Electrolysis Battery. 



THE SKIN. 187 

the Mcintosh dry cell electrolysis battery. In designing 
this battery all of these points have received due considera- 
tion. • It is fitted with six Columbia No. 4 dry cells — cells 
which we have found to be the most reliable. With ordinary 
use and proper care they should last for from six months 
to a year. 

DIRECTIONS. 

The sponge electrode, well moistened, should be at- 
tached to one end of the conducting cord, and the tip on 
the opposite end of the cord should be inserted in the socket 
marked + (plus). This sign always indicates the positive 
pole. 

The needle holder should be attached to the conducting 
cord and the free end of the cord should be attached to 
the post corresponding to the number of cells it is desired to 
use; post "1" for one cell, post "2" for two cells, post "3" 
for three cells, etc. It will be found that three or four cells 
are sufficient to perform any ordinary work. When both 
the sponge electrode and the needle come in contact with 
the patient the circuit is completed. 



CHAPTER XX. 

BLANCHING THE SKIN, DISCOLORATIONS AND USE OF FARADIC 

CURRENT. 

A most mortifying condition, and one frequently en- 
countered, is that in which the nose assumes a most decided- 
ly red hue, varying from the lightest tint to deep purple. 
Close examination generally reveals a network of bright cap- 
illaries traversing the nose and cheeks for a short distance. 
The use of the electric needle is here found most excellent 
in results and it should be employed without hesitation. In 
this treatment the opinions of the various operators have 
been far from uniform, as some insist that the positive pole 
shall be employed, while others are equally firm in their 
praise of the negative. However, in actual practice, the au- 
thor has found that the negative pole filled all requirements. 
It is best used by introducing the needle into the blood ves- 
sel and allowing it to penetrate a certain distance, then 
closing the circuit as usual by having the patient clasp the 
positive electrode in her hand. It is wisest to choose the 
largest vessel in beginning the work, as the destruction of 
this will also affect the tiny branches, and fewer insertions 
will thus be required. But a short treatment will be neces- 
sary for cases of this kind, and in no other trouble is the 
benefit more readily seen. 

When the flesh seems reddened and inflamed without 
the dilation of the capillaries, much can be done by applying 
the electrodes over the affected part. The absorbent cotton 
is moistened before being placed in the electrodes, and the 
current may be continued as long and as strong as the pa- 



THE SKIN. 189 

tient can endure it. The skin will become extremely red 
after a time, and the burning sensation will be experienced. 
Ten minutes is long enough for a treatment, and for some 
time after it is ended the redness will persist, but will finally 
give place to a much lighter appearance for some hours. 
Treatments for this trouble should be given at least every 
other day for two or three weeks until the improvement has 
become permanent. 

This work is especially beneficial after blackheads and 
pimples have been removed from the face, and it is neces- 
sary to improve the nutrition of the skin. In acne rosacea 
this method is much used and is extremely efficacious. Of 
course, if the capillaries are dilated they are to be treated 
as directed, and the bi-polar method used afterward. 

In the use of the electrodes upon the face or near the 
head care must be taken, as in other cases, to commence 
with fewer cells, as some people are so sensitive that they 
complain of dizziness when electricity is used. If the pa- 
tient is extremely nervous and is subject to headache, one 
of the electrodes may be placed at the back of the neck and 
the other upon the face, thus causing a general as well as 
local effect, and sometimes improving the physical condi- 
tion as well as the nutrition of the skin. 

HOW TO REMOVE DISCOLORATIONS. 

Many times there will be a demand for something that 
will quickly whiten or bleach some portion of the skin, and 
the use of electricity has in such instances been particularly 
beneficial, for by its aid the substances to be employed may 
be forced into the skin, thus affecting directly the portions 
that require treatment. The most obstinate cases of moth 
patch and freckles have been speedily affected by this meth- 



190 THE SKIN. 

od when other means have failed, while in any process the 
results are more rapidly attained. 

Experiments have proved ihat by moistening electrodes 
with certain substances and applying them to the unbroken 
skin, making the current sufficiently strong, the materials 
have been forced into circulation. For instance, concentrated 
solutions of sulphate of quinine and iodide of potassium 
can be detected in the urine thirty minutes after they have 
been applied to the skin. The amount detected after four 
or five hours is even greater, showing that the process has 
been going on steadily. In all of this work the idea is, of 
course, to cause the drugs to enter the circulation. 

In bleaching the skin there is only a desire to cause the 
fluid to penetrate a certain distance in order to remove 
the discolorations. Great care must be taken to select 
liquids that can be used with the positive pole, as otherwise 
the work will be useless. The bleaching lotion mentioned 
elsewhere has been found most excellent for this purpose 
and may be used by moistening the cotton thoroughly and 
placing it in the positive electrode. The negative electrode 
may be used with cotton moistened with salt and water 
and held on some indifferent portion of the skin. 
At least fifteen minutes may be spent for each 
treatment and the current from six cells may be em- 
ployed to begin with, gradually increasing them to ten as 
desired. Where the effect of a general bleaching is desired 
the current may be used longer, say twenty minutes, chang- 
ing the poles, instead of using the positive alone, by sub- 
stituting the negative occasionally. Treatments of this kind 
are better given after the water massage has been used, and 
will be found to be most effective when they are given at 
least three times a week. Mild discolorations may be re- 



THE SKIN. 191 

moved with greater ease and will demand far fewer treat- 
ments. 

TREATMENT OF ACNE. 

In the treatment of acne no method has afforded better 
results than the use of the electric needle when combined 
with the other necessary rules in regard to manipulation, 
diet and exercise. 

By entering the pustule with the negative needle the 
cheesy substance often found in the centre of a pimple is 
dissolved or if pus is present it is liquified and can be forced 
out by use of comedone extractor. Then a much lighter 
pressure with the positive ball-electrode will reduce the in- 
flammation, using acne creme for massage, after. 

In work of this kind the current is employed of the 
same strength as in the treatment of moles, warts or any 
other growth, only oftentimes it is necessary to leave the 
needle in the pimple for some time before the desired re- 
sults are to be obtained. 

The use of the needle is found especially beneficial in 
cases where the pimples have a tendency to recur or appear 
in the same spots time after time. 

REMOVAL OF BLACKHEADS AND MILIA. 

In some instances there is experienced quite a bit of 
difficulty in dislodging large obstinate comedones or black- 
heads. In these the introduction of the needle will loosen 
them effectively and after pressure with the comedone ex- 
tractor has removed them it is well to again introduce the 
needle into the opening for the purpose of thoroughly 
cleansing out any of the sebaceous matter. Some author- 
ities have claimed that the use of a very fine platinum needle 
or pure gold attached to the positive pole and used after the 



192 THE SKIN. 

removal of blackheads, will have a tendency to reduce the 
size of the opening and in many instances this practice is 
advisable. In any event the treatment following the use of 
the needle will be the same as in the treatment of acne. 

Many times the work of removing milia is hastened by 
the use of the negative needle in place of the ordinary 
needle. The process is the same as used in blackheads ex- 
cepting that of course sometimes little difficulty may be 
experienced in entering the tough sac that incloses the 
cheesy matter. 

TREATMENT OF ACNE ROSACEA. 

In this disease in which the cheeks and nose both ap- 
pear covered with the red, lumpy discolorations, nothing 
can give so much relief or improve the condition so quickly 
as the use of the electric needle exactly as described in the 
treatment of naevi, until the brilliant hue is reduced. As 
can easily be seen the negative electrode is used for the pur- 
pose of emptying the distended vessels and thus relieving 
the congestion, while the use of the positive electrode after- 
wards will be for the purpose of relieving the inflammation 
and for restricting rather than encouraging a flow of blood 
toward the spot. 

Other treatment and the use of the acne creme is also 
indicated and in this trouble much attention should also be 
paid to the diet, as it is positive that any disturbance of the 
digestive tract shows itself almost immediately in the more 
inflamed condition of the nose and cheeks. 

TREATMENT OF SCARS. 

In the treatment of scars tw 7 o methods are used. Some 
authorities utilize the positive electrode attached to the 
platinum needle, declaring that the resultant cicatrix is 



THE SKIN. 193 

imperceptible. Others use the finest of cambric needle and 
simply prick the center of each depression in such a manner 
as to bring it up nearly level with the elevation. In both in- 
stances the use of the positive current and deep massage as 
an after treatment will be found productive of excellent re- 
sults. The author has found the most pleasing effects to be 
obtained by the negative electrode whenever it has been 
necessary to introduce the needle into the tissues. 

CATAPHORESIS. 

Cataphoresis is a process following closely the law of 
electrolysis, and thus whenever a suitable medicine is placed 
upon either pole of a galvanic battery the process of chem- 
ical decomposition or disintegration takes place and it is 
separated into its elements or "ions." 

The "ions" that appear at the positive pole are called 
"anions", while those found at the negative are called 
"kathions." 

This process is used for the purpose of forcing medi- 
cines or medicated liquids into the body, and is therefore 
very beneficial in the treatment of many skin diseases in 
which one is anxious to stimulate indolent glands or use 
antiseptic liquids without puncturing the skin. 

The skin itself is a poor conductor of electricity and 
therefore the current enters it through the numerous open- 
ings made by the mouths of the sudoriparous and sebaceous 
glands. This peculiarity explains the great sensitiveness of 
the skin to the use of electricity, and also makes clear the 
reason why when an electrode is applied to the body, the 
current does not diffuse itself over the entire surface, but 
enters the glands where there is the best conduction and 
hence is capable of exciting more or less pain. 



194 THE SKIN. 

In applying the process of cataphoresis to the treat- 
ment of the skin it is quite necessary to know which sub- 
stances have affinities for the different poles. Broadly 
speaking, nearly all the metals are kathions and hence ap- 
pear at the negative pole, while the bases are electro-positive 
and are found at the positive pole. 

In producing a local anaesthesia for relieving the pain 
incident to the use of the electric needle or comedone ex- 
tractor this knowledge can be utilized by forcing a solution 
of cocaine into the skin through the use of the positive elec- 
trode wound with cotton and well moistened with this solu- 
tion, while the negative electrode is held in some indifferent 
position. 

As an example of what may be really accomplished by 
the use of this process the following simple experiment 
offers a very good proof. Some starch mixed with saliva 
may be held in the mouth while a solution of iodine applied 
to the negative pole is forced into the body. In a very few 
moments a blue discoloration will be observed, showing that 
the iodine and starch have combined. 

The principles of cataphoresis are also exemplified in 
the use of the electrolytic water massage previously de- 
scribed. In this work the solution used is charged by elec- 
tricity and hence is forced into the deeper tissues by this 
process, thus causing a marked improvement in the appear- 
ance as well as a great change in the texture of the skin. 
For instance, in the treatment of obstinate acne with come- 
dones. The action of the soda solution aids in clearing away 
all of the fatty deposits while the electricity entering into 
the deeper tissues through the numerous openings stimu- 
lates the glands anew and aids in relieving the temporary 
paralysis caused by the presence of the plugs of sebaceous 
matter. 



THE SKIX. 195 

This result could not be obtained in any other manner, 
for the faradic current, while it has a stimulating action, 
does not possess the quality of cataphoresis. 

In the treatment of various scalp diseases, in which the 
hair follicle itself has become diseased, and where one is 
anxious to use an antiseptic remedy the use of cataphoresis 
is again indicated and has produced some very remarkable 
results. This may be especially remarked in the treatment 
of dandruff, eczema, psoriasis and diseases in which the 
scalp has been so covered with foreign matter that the 
glands have literally starved. It is true that the use of this 
process will not produce a cure in a single day or a night, 
but when properly employed it will positively bring about 
better results than any other process heretofore indicated, 
and hence may be called the "rational method'' for treating 
obstinate cases. 

Chloasma is another cosmetic defect that has yielded 
especially well to the use of cataphoresis. In this trouble, 
as. in fact, wherever an excess of pigment is found, the 
source of the trouble is in the Malpighian or mucous layer, 
and hence the most practical treatment is one that can force 
a bleaching substance into the tissues. Should the affliction 
be caused by nervousness the use of electricity will surely 
aid in overcoming this tendency, the general health will also 
be benefited, while in short there is ever} 7 " indication for the 
use of this method and no reason for abandoning it. 

In this treatment as described under the chapter on 
bleaching, the skin is first thoroughly cleansed and then the 
bleaching lotion applied to the negative pole is forced into 
the deeper tissues, continuing the work until the skin as- 
sumes a decidedly pink hue. 

The treatments with cataphoresis should be given as 



196 THE SKIN. 

frequently as possible in order to obtain the quickest results, 
and it will always be found advisable to give short frequent 
treatments, rather than long ones some days apart. Once 
in a great while a sensitive skin may become considerably 
irritated, and will simply become a trifle painful and com- 
mence peeling. Of course, during this peeling process the 
treatment mav be discontinued and resumed afterwards. 
Ordinarily, however, the trouble is not encountered at all 
if the massage afterwards is properly given and the face 
well protected by a good coating of vegetable powder before 
exposed to the air. 

THE FARADIC CURRENT. 

The faradic current, also called the induced, inter- 
rupted or extra current is that caused by rapidly interrupt- 
ing a current passed through a wire from one or more 
galvanic cells. It was discovered in 1831 by Faraday, 
who proved that a current passed through a wire induced a 
current in another wire nearby and parallel to it. The wire 
through which the galvanic current passes directly is called 
the. "primary wire," while that through which the induced 
current passes is called the induced or secondary w 7 ire. The 
currents from these wires are always indicated on a bat- 
tery by the two letters P and S, meaning primary and sec- 
ondary. 

This current though commonly used is but little under- 
stood, and in fact not one operator in a hundred under- 
stands the difference between the two currents other than to 
state the "galvanic current is noiseless and can be used for 
removing hairs, while the faradic current buzzes and may 
be used for massage of the scalp and face/' 

Then, too, the fact that it takes a number of cells to 



THE SKIN. 197 

produce a galvanic current that can barely be noticed, 
while only one or two cells are needed to operate a faradic 
coil that will give more current than a person can bear, is 
another source of amazement. Hence, the necessity for 
making the subject as clear as possible. 

The reason for the increased force of the faradic cur- 
rent is found in the winding of the wires surrounding the 
bar of soft iron or magnetic core. 

A faradic current is always made by surrounding a soft 
iron core with a primary wire. This is then insulated, that 
is, covered by a non-conducting substance and a secondary 
wire is then wound about it. An automatic hammer is also 
used for interruping the current from the battery cells. 
When the current is turned on it goes through the primary 
to the magnetic core. The iron core then becomes magnet- 
ized and throws out lines of force permeating both the prim- 
ary and secondary coils. The greater the number of wind- 
ings in the coil, the more powerful it becomes, though the 
quantity of the current will be correspondingly lessened. 

The primary current, therefore, gives more current 
and less force whereas the secondary current gives less 
current and more force. The excellence of the coil depends 
entirely upon the care with which it is made. A good fara- 
dic battery must have a good primary coil with enough 
wire to thoroughly magnetize the core and secondary wire 
much finer and longer while the interrupter should be so 
constructed as to vary the number of interruptions from a 
very few interruptions up to many thousand a minute. 

The applications of the faradic current are based upon 
the general assumption that the current is a general tonic in 
its nature, and is therefore highly stimulating. 

The interruption of this current produces muscular 



198 THE SKIN. 

contfaction, not only of the muscles, but also of the, con- 
tractile fibre cells, thus the circulation is stimulated and with 
it the processes of waste and repair. 

A simple experiment showing the action of the faradic 
current may be easily performed by anyone who cares to 
make the efifort. The arms should be bared, and the cur- 
rent turned on, the subject grasping both electrodes, one in 
each hand. As the force of the current is increased it will 
be observed that the muscles contract and the blood vessels 
become far more prominent, showing that the circulation is 
directly afifected by the use of faradism. 

Rockwell cites some interesting experiments with far- 
adism which prove the tonic effects. 

He subjected a certain number out of a litter of pup- 
pies to the faradic current while an equal number were 
left untreated. At the end of four weeks the puppies were 
weighed, and not only was there a decided gain in weight on 
the part of those that had been subjected to this process, but 
in general appearance they were also more attractive and 
appeared far stronger. 

He also states that "the permanent efifects of the use of 
electricity on the person of the operator are" 

First, a marked and sometimes rapid growth of the 
muscles of the arm caused by the muscular contractions and 
increase of the local processes of waste and repair, etc. 

Second, a very gradual but decided tonic influence on 
the system. 

In the work of the dermatologist as the faradic cur- 
rent is so generally in use, it is quite possible that the tonic 
effect of the current when passed through the arms in this 
manner may also aid in making her work less arduous. 

In practical work the faradic current is generally em- 



THE SKIN. 199 

ployed by passing it through the fingers of the operator as 
shown in illustration on page 201. In this it will be seen 
that the subject holds one electrode while the other — or wrist 
electrode — is fastened about the wrist of the operator and 
in this manner the current passed through the finger tips 
onto the face. 

It can also be used or applied by means of any of the 
metallic electrodes first covered with moistened cotton. It 
may be employed when considered advisable in connectior 
with the electrolytic massage cup. It is very frequently 
used in the treatment of the scalp by means of the hair- 
brush electrode and is excellent for work in filling out the 
hollows in the cheek, neck or in the effort to develop the 
bust. 

In using this current it must always be remembered 
that the effects are almost purely mechanical, the primary 
current giving, it is true, some of the galvanic effect, but to 
a very limited extent, while the secondary current gives still 
less. 

It is a very desirable aid in treatments and fills a decided 
want, but as its action is more or less limited it should 
preferably be used in combination with the galvanic cur- 
rent either after a treatment, before or else by means of a 
process combining the two. 

THE COMBINED CURRENT. 

In this method the attachment is made by connecting 
the cord from the negative pole of the galvanic portion to 
the primary of the faradic. The two other cords are then 
used by inserting them one in the binding post marked pos- 
itive and the other in the one secondary of the faradic. 
The current may then be turned on as usual and be added or 
decreased by bringing into circuit more of the galvanic cells. 



200 THE SKIN. 

This process is recommended by Rockwell as a method 
"in order to secure the advantages of both currents and at 
the same time avoid the trouble and inconvenience of em- 
ploying them in succession or alternately." 

In practical work it has been employed by the derma- 
tologist more for the purpose of stimulation, such as in the 
work of bringing new life to the hair and more vitality to 
the scalp, for use in the work of developing the arms and 
neGk and bust and for filling out hollows. 

In all of these treatments it is well to use the moistened 
hand as an electrode as the effect is far more pleasurable. 

USE OF ELECTRICITY IN MASSAGE. 

In massage of the skin, where there is a desire to stim- 
ulate, the faradic current is usually employed. In addition 
to the desired effect there is a pleasant tingling sensation, 
which to many people is really most soothing. Neuralgic 
pains of the face and head are quickly relieved by this cur- 
rent, while nervous headaches vanish so speedily that the 
cure seems remarkable. 

The faradic portion of the battery is used much as the 
galvanic section. The current is produced by immersing 
the plates in the solution, and the fact that this portion is in 
working order may be told by the humming, buzzing noise 
that commences as soon as the plates are in position. The 
current is utilized by attaching the conducting cords to the 
posts marked P and N and increasing the strength if neces- 
sary by extending the little shield that projects from the 
right of the coil. 

In massage work the patient holds one electrode in 
her hand, while the operator fastens the cord to her wrist 
electrode. The current thus passes through the fingers 



THE SKIN. 



201 



of the operator to the face of 
the patient. The directions in 
the rules for massage may be 
observed here, being careful not 
to extend the use of the current 
for longer than twenty minutes 
at any time. 

A way of uniting the cleans- 
ng and stimulating treatment Wrist Electrode, 

in onei operation may easily be practiced by the use 
of the same apparatus just as described and applying the 
water massage at the same time. This can be easily done 
and is considered an exceedingly beneficial treatment. The 
current used in this method will need to be very light, as 
otherwise the shock will be too great. 

The massage roller may be used by attaching 





The Massage Roller. 

it to the conducting cord and applying as it may most be 
needed. Of course, in all of this work the positive pole is 
the one to be applied to the skin for the purpose of stimula- 
tion, while the negative electrode is either held stationary 
upon the skin or is clasped in the hand. 

The faradic current is also employed with very pleas- 
ing results in the treatment of the scalp, and here it acts as 
a most reliable tonic, promoting the growth of the hair to 
a remarkable degree and improving the condition of the 



202 THE" SKIN. 

scalp. In the use of the electric hair brush if the 
bristles seem a little too sharp and the patient is sensitive, 
the tips of the fingers may be used on the scalp after the 
wrist electrode has been connected. In this way the current 
will have a milder effect. 

There are many other ways of using these currents, but 
as each operator has her own particular class of people to 
treat, she soon becomes accustomed to the methods best 
suited to her work and uses nothing else. In the use of 
electricity the same rule applies and only experiment and 
study can teach which is best suited for her purpose. With 
the experience acquired through persistent application and 
study any ciever woman can soon achieve marked success 
in this field. 



CHAPTER XXL 

THE CARE OF THE HANDS. 

The woman who wishes to preserve the beauty of her 
hands can easily do so if she will devote at least five min- 
utes a day to the work of attending to them. This will, pf 
course, be in addition to the weekly manicure, for in actual 
care the attention of a professional will be secured at least 
as often as this. It is said by close observers that hands 
show the beginning of age much sooner than the face, and 
that it is by this fact alone that many women otherwise 
beautiful have been unable to deceive their acquaintances 
in regard to the number of years that have flown. The 
flesh becomes flabby and withered in appearance, brown 
spots appear and the joints look as though much larger 
than formerly, simply from the falling away of the skin 
and the formation of the many folds. Care will remedy 
these defects to such an extent that a really fine-appearing 
hand may be preserved even in old age, hence the fastidious 
woman will do well to arrange for the expenditure of the 
necessary minutes each day if she wishes to maintain a rep- 
utation for youthful appearance. 

In reading of a beautiful hand the mind naturally pic- 
tures the ideal of the artist, with firm white flesh, long, 
tapering fingers, delicately tinted, filbert-shaped nails and 
soft, pink palm. A pleasing vision, indeed, but one seldom 
seen, for the model hand is nearly as rare as the model foot, 
and the majority of people must be contented with one that 
will at least not be classed as "impossible," even if it can- 
not be called beautiful. A great authority has said that the 



204 THE SKIN. 

truly patrician hand can only be found when there have 
been generations of noble ancestors. The student of palm- 
istry can easily contradict this fact, for experience proves 
that very frequently people of the humblest parentage pos- 
sess hands so perfectly molded that the noblest might well 
long to possess them. The earnest thinker and close ob- 
server has never been found with a hand of this type, neither 
has the successful or ambitious business woman. The idle 
dreamers or artistic souls are usually those who claim the 
ideal hand, and it is well that this should be so, for they de- 
serve some compensation for being so useless from a prac- 
tical point of view. 

The time to change or improve the shape of the hands, 
fingers or nails is that of infancy, and the careful mother 
will see that the tiny finger nails are treated with due at- 
tention. Infants who show a tendency to keep the fingers 
in their mouths not only change the shape of the finger and 
alter the beauty of the nail, but also spoil the mouth as well. 
This tendency may be checked by applying a solution of 
quinine to the tips of the fingers. As they grow older the 
tiny finger should be rubbed with oil, the cuticle pressed 
back with an orangewood stick and the nails trimmed care- 
fully that they may be encouraged to grow long and slender. 
Biting of the nails must positively be forbidden and if neces- 
sary stringent measures taken to prevent the practice. 
Children should also be. taught how to care for the hands 
and how to prevent the rough, red appearance so universally 
seen in childhood. It can hardly be argued that a child will 
not enjoy the playtimes as well without these bleeding, raw 
surfaces as with them, and by a very little work the habit 
may be formed that will be successful in preventing this 
condition. 







If) 

5 



vO 
CM 

6 



206 THE SKIN. 

The greatest amount of trouble comes because not one 
person in a hundred is taught to wash the hands properly. 
Soap is a cleansing medium made of alkalies and fats. 
Combined with water a lather is formed that cleanses 
the skin. Allowed to remain on the skin and become dry, 
the alkali keeps on actively irritating the cuticle and the 
result is shown in the reddened and coarse surface. Soaps 
for cleansing purposes, such as the common household 
soaps, are invariably strongly alkaline and should never be 
used to remove soil from anything less delicate than wood- 
work. The mixture for the hands should be as nearly 
neutral as possible, and a soap of this description will not 
make much of a lather. Children should be taught that 
after the hands are cleansed by the action of the soap and 
water they should be rinsed off well in clear water and then 
carefully dried. If they are at all inclined to become 
chapped or irritated each time after the washing process, a 
little jelly may be rubbed in well and the hands dried as 
usual. 

A very good mixture for this purpose is called Rose 
Jelly. It is easily made and will be found excellent for 
general use. 

ROSE JELLY. 

Mucilage of Irish moss 2 J 

Glycerine 35 

Extract witch hazel (dist.) 2 § 

Cologne 1 § 

Borax 30 gr. 

Dissolve the borax in the witch hazel, mix with half of 
the glycerine and cologne and add oil of rose sufficient to 
perfume. Mix other part of glycerine with mucilage and 



THE SKIN. 207 

then stir slowly into the part first prepared. After allow- 
ing it to stand three hours, strain and it will be ready for 
use. 

This jelly when properly made will not have an oily ef- 
fect and will dry in immediately. It is best applied while 
the hands are still damp. At least once a day after the 
hands have been thoroughly cleansed the cuticle should be 
pressed back with an orangewood stick and the nails thor- 
oughly rubbed with chamois skin. By folding this over the 
first finger it may be made into a most excellent buffer for 
polishing, using it alternately on the first finger of each 
hand as it may be required for polishing the nails of the 
other. 

Women of leisure and wealth rarely either require or 
need advice as to the care of their hands. It is those who 
are so occupied that they cannot take time to consult the 
expert or to those who are situated away from large centers 
or those, who though possessing the inclination, have not 
the money to spend on this work, that these lines will be 
most welcome. The woman who does her own housework 
may not always admit it, but the one great disadvantage 
that fills her with dismay is not so much the labor involved 
as the unsightly appearance her hands present. 

Much of this difficulty may be avoided not only by care 
in the use of soaps, and in cleansing the hands, but also by 
efiforts made to save them from all unnecessary trials. For 
instance, in washing dishes, hand mops can be purchased 
that will do away with the necessity for keeping the hands 
in water so long at a time. Rubber gloves are also a won- 
derful aid in this respect. When the work of sweeping or 
other heavy labor is to be done 1 the soft palms should be 
protected by an old pair of gloves, very loose and soft 



208 THE SKIN. 

enough to prevent callous lines from appearing where the 
seams are joined. In every part of domestic arrangements 
much may be done by expending a little thought to make 
the demand on the hands very much less. 

When the hands are very red and appear swollen, phys- 
ical culture will do much toward overcoming this proof of 
poor circulation. Tight lacing is now so little practiced that 
few women are guilty of undue compression, otherwise it 
might be mentioned as a frequent cause of the trouble men- 
tioned. Another difficulty equally embarrassing and one 
more difficult to cure is that of undue perspiration, in which 
the palms are constantly moist, ruining any gloves the first 
time they are worn, and making the act of shaking hands a 
positive torture. This last trouble may frequently be entirely 
cured by dusting this powder over the palms each time 
after washing them. 

DUSTING TOWDER. 

Boracic acid 15 

Alum (powdered) 2 § 

Salycilic acid 1 § 

Talcum 2 § 

Mix together and sift through several layers of bolting 
cloth until ready for use, then dust on as required. 

Cosmetic mittens worn at night do much to soften the 
hands and make them presentable, but if the work during 
the day is extremely trying, it is often unwise to attempt 
wearing them, as the hands are made so much more tender 
that they become rough more readily upon immersion in 
soap and water. For those who have no particular demands 
upon them for undue exertion the use of the mittens each 
night will certainly do wonders. They are prepared in a 




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210 THE SKIN. 

number of ways, and there are numerous recipes for the 
paste-like mixtures, but none of them are better than the 
one that follows : 

WHITENING PASTE. 

Rub into one pound of honey enough of the powder of 
almonds to make a stiff paste, and then add gradually the 
whites of eggs until six have been used. Stir in twelve 
ounces of almond oil, six ounces of solution of alum (satur- 
ated) and four of borax. Mix well, and if too thin add 
more almond meal. This is to be used by spreading upon 
the hands at night and then drawing on large mittens or 
loose gloves to protect the clothing. Another method is to 
spread the paste on mittens before applying, but the effect 
is more uniform if spread directly upon the hands. 

In the morning wash off with warm water, and before 
the hands are entirely dry rub in the rose jelly. 

At no time will hands appear to worse advantage than 
just when they should look the best. This is invariably the 
case on the occasion of some dinner or state occasion where 
these important members must be decidedly in evidence. 
More than one woman has shed bitter tears as the last mo- 
ment approached and the red or discolored appearance was 
as obtrusive as ever. A remedy that may be applied to 
very good advantage will doubtless be appreciated by those 
so bothered. This creme is too startlingly white to be used 
on the face, but may be rubbed in the hands whenever the 
occasion demands, with the happiest of results. It is best 
applied immediately after cleansing the hands well with 
soap and water, and is easily prepared. A clever woman 
who used this preparation with the happiest of results de- 
clared that to those who were obliged to resort to anything 



THE SKIN. 211 

of this kind the only appropriate term for this preparation 
was the Slave's Delight. It is made by sifting the subni- 
trate of bismuth into the blended oils and then stirring until 
smooth. 

DISGUISE FOR RED HANDS. 

Almond oil 4 g 

Lanolin 15 

Spermaceti 1 § 

White wax 1 § 

Subnitrate of bismuth 1 g 

Oil bitter almonds 10 drops 

In addition to home care every woman who can afford 
it employs the professional manicure at least once a week 
and oftener if necessary. The treatment when given by 
one who thoroughly understands the art is so pleasing that 
the expense of the work is but a small consideration. There 
has been a tendency of late years to make the fee for this 
work less. When one stops to consider that a good mani- 
cure cannot be given in less than one hour, to say nothing 
of the amount of material that must be used during the pro- 
cess, the complaints against the first-class professionals who 
persist in charging living rates will be heard with less pa- 
tience. A thoroughly good treatment will consume the 
greater part of an hour, besides involving the use of much 
material, and, if the work is to be well done, the remunera- 
tion must be in proportion. 

The instruments necessary for this work vary, as used 
by the different schools of manicuring, but should always 
consist of at least those in the following list : 



212 THE SKIN. 

i package of orange wood sticks. 

2 buffers. 

2 scissors. 

2 files. 

I package emery board. 

I box polishing powder. 

I box ointment. 

I box fine pumice stone. 

I bottle cleansing liquid. 

I cuticle knife. 

The best professionals generally commence the treat- 
ment by trimming the nails and shaping them on one hand, 
while the other is placed in warm soapy water. After a 
few moments the hand that has been soaked is taken in 
charge and the nails are brushed vigorously with the small 
nail brush and soap. The cuticle knife is then used for 
pushing back the flesh that has encroached upon the surface 
of the nails, and the orange wood stick is employed to push 
back the skin at the base of the nail. If the under part of 
the nails seem much discolored, a mixture of pumice stone 
and cleansing liquid, such as ongaline, is placed all about 
the selvage skin, just inside the nail, and allowed to remain 
for a time. During this process the second hand should 
have been soaking and should be ready for the work just 
described. 

The first hand is once more ready for treatment and 
the work of removing the pumice stone is now commenced 
by the use of the orange wood stick. If there is still dis- 
coloration in any nail the mixture must be replaced again. 
A bit of the polishing powder is then sprinkled upon the 
buffer and the work of imparting the gloss is commenced. 




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214 THE SKIN. 

In this, care must be taken to avoid heating the nail and 
the strokes should be given in a leisurely manner. After 
the polishing with powder has been finished, a little of the 
white or rose colored ointment is rubbed on the nail, more 
powder is placed upon the buffer and the work again re- 
sumed. When the nails seem uniformly polished the hand 
is again placed in water and scrubbed well with the little 
brush. Examination now reveals the presence of roughness 
under the nails and perhaps several places where the cuticle 
needs attention. The emery boards are used for removing 
roughness under the nails and hang-nails that have not suc- 
cumbed to the trimming given by the scissors are again re- 
touched, and then the polishing or kid buffer employed to 
give the final touch. The results should be nails finely pol- 
ished, delicately pink in appearance and well shaped, with 
no bleeding surfaces to make one feel that the tools had 
been more vigorously than wisely used. 

The other hand is then cared for in the manner indi- 
cated, but this time the first hand is not returned to the 
water, but may remain on the table until the next step is 
taken. This consists in using the pencil polish as shown in 
the following illustration. The end of the pencil is moist- 
ened by water until the nail may become nicely coated, and 
then the buffer is used immediately for polishing it. This 
process is shown in the last picture and is easily done. The 
pencil polish gives a beautiful lustre and as it appears im- 
mediately, it is far better for the nails than one requiring so 
much buffing. If the nails are at all obstinate, a second 
application will be rewarded with success. Of course, the 
other nails are treated in the same manner, and this con- 
cludes the giving of a perfect manicure. This polish is most 
excellent for a tonic as well as a beautifier and will be found 




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216 THE SKIN. 

a boon in this respect, for nails covered with white spots 
or deeply ridged, are apt to be sources of mortification. 

By adopting these rules they may be cured. For white 
specks always follow directions as given for manicuring, 
and in addition, melt equal parts of myrrh and pitch in a 
cup and hold the nails in this mixture for some moments. 
Repeat each day for five days. 

For ridged nails take two ounces each of lanolin, petro- 
latum, almond oil, one ounce of myrrh, and one-half ounce 
of tincture of benzoin. Melt together and hold the fingers 
in this mixture as long as possible until the nails become 
thoroughly softened. Do this every day for a week, and 
avoid use of powder or enamel in any form for polishing. 

The use of the scissors excepting in removing hang- 
nails or in clipping nails that are too long to file is but a 
small item. The best operators all employ the orange wood 
sticks whenever it is possible to do so, and they have them 
of all shapes and kinds. The cuticle knife is used most 
cautiously so that the enamel of the nail may not be injured 
while any acid that must be applied to remove stains is 
managed most warily, lest other trouble comes of it. The 
files are used as the case demands, the dainty velvet file 
doing the fine work after the heavier one has removed all 
portions that are not needed. The use of the cuticle knife be- 
neath the nail should be avoided if possible, on account of the 
danger of injuring the under surface and making it rough. 

The woman in business will hardly bother about pre- 
paring any of the articles needed in her work, as she can 
economize both time and money by purchasing those already 
prepared. Others who may wish to do a little of this pol- 
ishing and shaping at home may wish this recipe for a pol- 
ishing powder: 



THE SKIN. 217 

Yellow oxide of tin (powdered) 2 § 

Venetian talcum 15 

Petrolatum 1 3 

Rub the petrolatum in with the talcum and then rub in 
the oxide of tin and sift through a fine bolting cloth. 

The liquid for removing stains and for whitening the 
nails may be made by mixing these ingredients : 

Dioxide of hydrogen 3 § 

Lemon juice 1 5 

Ammonia 1 o 

The tinted cream may be made by adding a few grains 
of carmine to the recipe as a disguise for red hands, or if 
the rosy tint is not desired, the white cream itself may be 
employed. These simple substitutes are most efficacious in 
the hands of intelligent workers and may be recommended 
as at least being harmless. 



CHAPTER XXII. 

REFINING AND DEVELOPING ARMS, SHOULDERS, NECK AND 
BUST USE OF DEPILATORY VIBRATORY MASSAGE. 

There is little excuse in this progressive age for the 
possession of scrawny necks, round shoulders, poorly de- 
veloped busts and skinny arms. True, physical culture alone 
may not be able to more than fill out the hollows, but unite 
this system with massage and the use of the various oint- 
ments for refining the coarse skin, and the change will in- 
deed be most marvelous. 

A beautiful arm should be softly rounded, smooth and 
white, and should taper gradually to the hand. Many of 
the skinniest and roughest arms have been made over with 
marvelous success by the following method : 

First, of course, comes exercise in the open air, playing 
games such as golf, tennis or croquet, and the use of the 
system particularly directed to the work of remedying any 
deficiencies that seem the most strongly marked. The cos- 
metic treatment will, of course, - depend upon the condition 
of the skin, and if it is rough and covered .with flesh that 
looks pimply, the work can be hastened greatly by bathing 
each night with warm water and paste soap, using wash- 
cloth of coarse variety to cause more friction. The arms 
may then be rubbed well with a good tissue food or creme 
celeste, using deep massage for at least fifteen minutes. In 
the morning cold water baths may be taken, and the mas- 
sage treatment continued for at least three weeks. At the 
end of that time the roughness should have subsided suffi- 
ciently to allow a change, and this lotion may be applied 
each night : 




Fig. 30. Showing Action of Depilatory in Section of Arms. Smooth 
Places Indicating Effect in Removing Strong Hairy Growth. 



220 THE SKIN. 

Rose water 6 5 

Tincture benzoin I 5 

Oxide zinc I 5 

Shake well and apply with a sponge and allow it to dry 
in thoroughly before rubbing; then commence the massage 
without ointment for a few minutes each night. By the end 
of five or six weeks there should be a marked improvement. 

When, in addition to being skinny, the arms are also 
covered with wiry black hair, the treatment is more difficult, 
for it is impossible to disguise the condition sufficiently to 
allow the use of short sleeves or evening dress. Hence the 
choice must be made between these two methods : The first 
consists of using a depilatory from time to time and thus 
removing the hair completely for a temporary period ; the 
second is by using enough peroxide of hydrogen to thor- 
oughly bleach the hair so that it will hardly be noticeable. 

In the use of the depilatory as shown in Illustration 22 
where the operator is observed spreading the paste upon 
the lip, it must be carefully applied so that the entire sur- 
face is covered. Then it should be allowed to dry and then 
a bit of cotton slightly moistened in water should be patted 
gently over the sections treated until the paste is sufficiently 
softened to yield to the scraping motion of the spatula, as 
shown in Illustration 22. For use in removing the hair on 
neck and arms a depilatory is really the only feasible thing 
and w T hen the use of this article is combined with the occa- 
sional application of peroxide it is said that the most stub- 
born growth will in time be eradicated. 

When the growth is very coarse and dark, the depila- 
tory should be applied every week for three weeks. After 
this every two weeks for two months and after this once 



THE SKIN. 221 

in four or six weeks will be found sufficient to keep the hairs 
from becoming too apparent. 

In the use of this liquid or semi-paste-like depilatory, 
care should be taken to shake it well always before using 
as otherwise the caustic quality of the liquid might irritate 
the skin. If the skin is at all inflamed, though this is rarely 
the case when a good depilatory is employed, a skin food 
or soothing creme must be employed immediately afterwards 
and the use of soap and water avoided for several days. 

Every operator has calls nearly every day in the week from 
some suffering mortal so afflicted with a growth of hair on 
the arms that she looks like an advertisement for a hair- 
tonic of some kind. The real gratitude evinced by people 
so afflicted when assured that they can be quickly relieved 
of such a disfigurement is in itself an incentive to every oper- 
ator to learn just how to remedy such defects. True, the hair 
will return after the first application, just as the weeds in 
the garden will grow, no matter how much they are dis- 
couraged, unless systematic work is kept up ; but if the vigil- 
ance is not relaxed and the interest is maintained, victory 
is always assured. 

If the peroxide treatment is used, the arms must be 
washed first with soap and water, then with a solution of 
soda and water, to take away all traces of oil that may be 
upon the skin. Then a mixture of peroxide and ammonia 
may be applied by means of some cotton or a soft cloth. 
This may be continued until the hairs are sufficiently 
bleached, and if the first treatment is not sufficient to ac- 
complish the purpose, a second may be taken. The propor- 
tion of the two liquids should be one of ammonia to six of 
peroxide, and it is said that a continued use will make the 
hair so brittle that they will fall out, and in time cease to 



222 THE SKIN. 

reappear. At any rate the bleaching process makes them 
much less conspicuous. 

Deep massage is much used for toning the muscles of 
the neck and shoulders, and applications of various oint- 
ments and lotions are often necessary in order to make the 
skin look well. The best formed neck can never appear to 
advantage if its beauty is marred by the appearance of a 
deep mark of dingy hue encircling it, and this is an occur- 
rence that is only too common. The cause is, of course, 
found in the stiff neckwear, either of linen or any other 
material that encircles the throat closely. 

The cure is first of all in abolishing anything but soft 
ribbons or other substitutes that will look as well. Next, in 
using a whitening creme each night for massaging the skin 
and last of all in applying a bleaching lotion until the dis- 
colorations have vanished. The use of cloths saturated in 
peroxide of hydrogen after the water massage is also excel- 
lent as an aid in hastening the process of whitening the skin. 

The sagging of the flesh directly under the chin may, 
of course, be prevented by the use of proper massage, as 
illustrated in Figure 9, while the mallets may also be em- 
ployed to advantage for the same purpose, and exponents 
of vocal culture declare that the proper use of the muscles 
in singing will be of great use for this purpose. The process 
is a trifle expensive, however, for those of ordinary means, 
so massage and exercise will generally be called the best 
aids. 

The hollow spaces found about the neck and shoulders 
almost inevitably yield to exercise unless the individual is 
extremely emaciated. Applications of a nourishing skin 
food and the use of the deep plucking massage are extreme- 
ly beneficial, while above and beyond all may be mentioned 




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224 THE SKIN. 

the use of the breathing exercises mentioned in another 
chapter. The shoulders of perfect beauty are usually an 
inheritance, for they should form a continuous curve from 
the neck to the arm, with no sharply defined departure to 
make the change. Physiological development will do much 
toward improving the carriage and toward broadening the 
shoulders, but of course cannot entirely change the original 
form. 

If the skin should be rough and covered with small red 
pimples, a state frequently common during the summer 
months, the following treatment will be found most benefi- 
cial. First of all, a course of sulphur baths, followed by 
the application of this paste each night. 

Honey 15 

Alum sol 25 

Whites of eggs \ 2 

Carbolic acid 1 3 

Almond oil 2 5 

Almond meal sufficient to make a paste. 

In the morning this paste may be removed by the use 
of warm water and a mild soap, and this lotion applied : 

Rose water 65 

Lemon juice 1 § 

Borax , 1 5 

Alcohol ' 15 

Glycerine 1 3 

One week of this treatment should get the skin in very 
good condition, though if it is very rough it will also be 
necessary to use massage as w r ell before the paste is applied. 
If necessary to appear in public in evening dress before the 




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226 THE SKIN. 

skin has become smooth enough to look as it should, the 
whitening creme may be applied and rubbed in energetically 
and then powder dusted on. Many famous beauties invari- 
ably use a creme of this description as a preparation for an 
evening toilet. 

The development of the bust is a matter that creates 
much interest, for the woman who is thin declares, to be 
happy, she must be larger, while the over-developed one 
longs hopelessly for a decrease. The perfectly developed 
woman is, of course, neither one nor the other, but just 
right, and there should be approximately a difference of 
about ten inches between the size of the waist and the bust, 
and practically the same difference between the hips and the 
waist. 

Proper exercise, bathing and light massage are the best 
remedies for increasing the measurements, and if due care 
is taken, there will be few poorly developed women aside 
from those suffering from physical weakness. The use of 
the many glass arrangements and metallic attachments ad- 
vertised for this purpose cannot be too strongly condemned. 
In the hands of specialists they may do some good, but as a 
rule they are harmful beyond belief, and may produce per- 
manent injury w r hen applied by the novice. Massage of the 
breasts should be most carefully done, after washing them 
with warm water and applying a good skin food. The 
movement should be performed with the flat portion of the 
hand, rubbing in a circular fashion, around and around, and 
finishing with a quick dash of cold water. Deep breathing 
exercises will also be of great benefit, and those who have 
been able to take swimming lessons claim they can see a 
wonderful difference as a result. Electricity may also be 
employed to advantage by using the faradic current for 
fifteen minutes daily. 



THE SKIN. 227 

In this connection the use of the vibratory massage 
taking care that the speed is not too great, and using dis- 
cretion in applying pressure, will often be found most ex- 
cellent for the purpose not only of increasing the size of 
the breasts, but also for making the hollows in the neck less 
apparent. As shown in the illustrations the treatments 
may be easily given, and when coupled with proper finger 
manipulation and the use of nourishing ointments will be 
found really of much benefit, though of course it must be 
remembered that just as "no rock is so hard but that a little 
wave may beat admission in a thousand years," so no case 
is so hopeless but that the proper treatment will really make 
an improvement. 

The reduction of the breasts desired by overly stout 
women should never be attempted by the amateur, for there 
is too much danger of causing some injury which may later 
develop into a malignant growth, as this portion of the 
body is peculiarly susceptible to trouble of this kind. The 
use of bandages wet in solutions containing lead have been 
much in vogue and cannot be too vigorously forbidden, as 
the absorption of this poisonous material into the system is 
even more dangerous when applied upon this part of the 
body than when used on the scalp, as in hair tonic, etc. If 
something must be done, the afflicted one may try bathing 
the parts with a solution of tannin and alcohol — ten per 
cent of tannin being the quantity used — and following with 
a light massage and cold water. This method may in time 
take away the superfluous flesh and will at any rate be 
harmless. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

THE MOUTH AXD TEETH. 

i he woman who is fortunate enough to possess a beau- 
tiful mouth, of medium size, with an upper lip bowed, and 
moderately thin under lip, both fresh in coloring, can never 
be altogther unattractive. If in addition to this important 
feature she owns a set of sound, white teeth, she is indeed 
to be congratulated, for, with two such aids, she may hope 
to make much of herself. Complexions may be beautified 
and hair may be transformed, but a mouth is impossible to 
remake, unless surgery can be employed, and even then the 
small scars resulting will not assist in making matters any 
better. 

So few people can be said to possess the perfect mouth, 
it may be well to consider the best means of treating the 
imperfections commonly seen, and in order to do this it will 
be necessary to understand the requisites necessary for the 
normal condition of the ordinary mouth. 

The lips are two horizontal, flexible folds, surrounding 
the opening of the mouth, and on this margin the skin 
passes into the mucous membrane. The red portion of the 
lips, though really belonging to this mucous membrane, 
also partake of the nature of the skin. The coloring should 
be fresh, with a decided, though dry, gloss. The beauty of 
the lips depends not only upon the coloring and outline of 
the margin, but also on the symmetrical distribution of the 
tissue and the peculiar bright gloss of the red portion. 

The cosmetic defects most frequently found are those 
of color shape and condition of the epidermis. The lips 



THE SKI X. 229 

may be too thick, or too thin, too much bowed, or too long 
and straight. Aside from the application of coloring, clev- 
erly simulating the desired curves, little can be done to 
remedy defects in form, though it has been said that to some 
extent the condition- may be improved. For instance, bath- 
ing the lips with tannin will somewhat reduce the size, while 
thin, drawn-in lips are declared to be improved by the appli- 
cation of irritants. The use of coloring as mentioned will 
not be possible in daylight, but can be used for stage pur- 
alone, and in this way may entirely change the ex- 
pression of the face. 

Colorless lips, when caused by ill health, are usually 
remedied only by general improvement, and in case of wast- 
ing disease, of great severity, nothing but the paint-pot can 
remedv the condition. 

The cosmetic error most commonly seen is that of chap- 
ping of the lip In some cases the epithelium seems to 
peel off without cause, at any time of the year. In others, 
this trouble aused by the use of sharp spices, cheap cos- 

metics, and often by poisoning from colored veils. In all 
-evere cases the lips are pale and covered with scales, or red 
and surmounted by brownish crusts. Deep incisions, either 
in the center or at the corners of the mouth bleed readily 
on pressure. This trouble, if neglected, may become chronic, 
leaving the mouth in such a distorted condition that it is 
almost as disagreeable to behold as it is painful to posse- 
Taken in time, it will often yield to treatment, by applying 
the proper ointments and avoiding the use of irritants. 
Many people, in an endeavor to remedy matters, have but 
increased the difficulty by using pure glycerine, instead of 
an oil, and in this way simply intensified the irritation. 

If the application- of soothing salves are not effica- 



230 THE SKIX. 

• 

cious, and the incisions persist in becoming deeper, it may 
be necessary to cauterize the portions before destroying 
them entirely. This rigorous process may be followed by 
bland substances with good results. For ordinary purposes 
this salve will be found efficacious : 

Lanolin I o 

Almond oil 25 

Spermaceti 2 5 

White wax I 5 

Carbolic acid y^o 

Melt the oils together, and add the acid when the mix- 
ture has cooled. Apply whenever necessary. In addition 
to the use of the salves, certain precautions should be ob- 
served. For instance, the lips must not be moistened while 
out in the air. The practice of biting them must not be al- 
lowed, and, most important, no veil should be worn that 
will draw across or touch the lips in any way. By observing 
these rules much trouble may be easily avoided. 

The treatment of the gums must also occupy some at- 
tention, as no mouth can be considered perfect if the gums 
appear pallid and unhealthy. In reality, they are simply the 
mucous membrane surrounding the teeth. When in per- 
fect health they are firm, of regular contour, with pyramids 
not too prominent, and of a healthy red. The cosmetic de- 
fects of the gums do not depend so much on general dis- 
eases and are more easily treated as connected with the 
teeth. The proper attention to one is generally sufficient 
to insure a good condition in the other. When, in use of 
the toothbrush, the gums bleed easily, there is, of course, an 
indication of loosening and inflammation that will necessi- 
tate the use of a flat toothbrush instead of a narrow one, 



THE SKIN. 231 

and the brushing of the gums themselves, as well as the 
teeth. A mouth wash is of benefit in these cases and may 
be applied either with a brush or by means of a cotton swab. 
It may be made of these ingredients : 

Listerine 15 

Alum sol y^ § 

Myrrh ' -_^ 

Water 5 | 

Cases of receding gums are more difficult to treat, as 
the trouble is not only constitutional but local. The wash 
that may be used to good advantage is best made bv mixing 
together — 

Lime water 2 § 

Myrrh 1 3 

Bals. Peru 1 3 

Milk magnesia 65 

This wash may be used many times during the day, 
and in addition the service of the dentist should be era ed. 

Perfect teeth are said to be nearly as rare as p 
gems. This statement may well bring a smile :: pleasure 
to the lips of the woman who possesses the requisite number 
in absolutely Brood condition. The cosmetic errors of I 
teeth are now so well cared for by specialists whc have 
made the simulation of good ones a study, that nearly ev: 
woman may purchase what Nature has denied her, if she 
wishes to do so. Unsightly cavities are cleansed and 
up with porcelain so nearly matching the teeth thai it is im- 
possible to tell where it begins or ends. Or. if the teeth are 
really hopeless, the greater part will be cut away and a new 
portion made that will fit on the old roots and extend into 



232 THE SKIN. 

the gums, in such a manner that detection is practically im- 
possible. 

The incrustations that appear in the form of a yellowish 
deposit should be removed as soon as they appear, as other- 
wise the enamel will be injured, and the teeth thjus be made 
to decay. There are many forms of these deposits, and of 
course the soft ones may be kept away by the use of a tooth- 
brush and a good dentifrice, but the hard variety will need 
the attention of the dentist. If so situated that his services 
cannot be commanded, much may be done by very careful 
work with the finest of pumice stone mixed with powdered 
charcoal and applied by means of a small stick and a bit of 
cotton. This work must be very cautiously done. 

Absolutely clean teeth will not decay, but as it is im- 
possible to reach all the tiny cavities and thoroughly cleanse 
them, constant work is necessary in order to prevent the 
tiny particles of food from accumulating in the crevices. 
The use of a poor dentifrice is thus responsible for much 
trouble, and care must be taken to secure one that is fully 
adequate to the task of cleansing the crevices as well as the 
surface. A dentifrice that may be easily prepared and will 
be as effective as any, may be made of these ingredients : 

Orris root powder 45 

Precipitated chalk 8 § 

White castile soap 45 

Oil sassafras 40 drops. 

Oil bay 80 drops. 

Honey enough to form paste. 

Or, if a liquid dentifrice is preferred, there may be a 
demand for this recipe, as it cleanses the teeth nicely and 
will not injure the enamel: 



THE SKIN. 233 

Quillaja, coarse powder ij^o 

Cochineal powder 15 gr. 

Glycerine 35 

Oil of wintergreen 25 drops 

Alcohol 105 

Peppermint water to make 32 5 

For many purposes a wash such as described is most 
excellent, as the alcohol penetrates into crevices and assists 
greatly in preventing any process of decay. It has been 
noticed that brandy drinkers usually possess fine teeth, as 
the alcohol acts as a cleansing and disinfecting agent. 

When properly brushed, few teeth will require much 
attention from the dentist, unless there is some process of 
crumbling going on, that is due to insufficient bone-making 
material in the body. It is quite surprising to note in this 
connection that even when people are desirous of saving 
their teeth and preventing decay, few of them actually know 
how to use a toothbrush. 

A hard brush is usually indicated in cases where the 
gums are normal. Even when the gums bleed, and are ten- 
der, this tendency may be overcome by the use of a brush 
of this description. Before using a new brush it should be 
well washed with soap and water and then allowed to stand 
in a solution of boracic acid for at least one hour. Then the 
powder should be applied on the brush, and the teeth 
cleansed by drawing it vertically from above downward, 
and from below upward. The next process consists in 
brushing them horizontally and finally the upper and under 
surfaces should be cleansed. If the teeth are extremely 
brittle, the process may be finished by rinsing the mouth out 
with lime water. In any event it is well to use a mouth 



234 THE SKIN. 

wash from time to time, employing either listerine or some 
thing of that nature for the purpose. 

Discolorations may be removed by scrubbing the sur- 
face of the teeth with bits of cotton, soaked in pyrozone and 
water, say a twenty-five per cent solution, and then rinsing 
the mouth out with clear water. A yellow appearance is 
common to some teeth, while in others it is induced by the 
use of dentifrices containing a great deal of soap. It is 
never wise to employ the bleaching fluid too frequently, as 
in time it might injure the enamel. 

The disagreeable odor from the mouth, that is not only 
embarrassing but disgusting as well, may arise from the 
teeth or from numerous other causes. When from the teeth, 
the filling of the cavities and constant use of a good denti- 
frice will be sufficient to banish it. If from the tonsils, or 
a catarrhal condition, the use of pyrozone as a gargle will 
be met with great success. If the trouble arises from a dis- 
ordered stomach, of course, the cure will consist in remedy- 
ing the condition at fault. A mild solution of boracic acid, 
made by adding enough of this substance to water to make 
a ten per cent solution, will make a very good liquid for use 
in this manner. It should be used, not once, but many times 
a day, and if necessary may be followed by these pastilles 
for perfuming the breath. Of course, these are only tem- 
porary remedies, to be used while the real cause is under- 
going some process of treatment. Xo woman of any refine- 
ment can ever feel resigned to such a condition if there is 
any aid for it. The pastilles may be made after this recipe : 

Powdered licorice 10 gr. 

Powdered charcoal 20 gr. 

Vanilla sugar 30 

Gum arabic 55 



THE SKIN. 235 

Mix with warm water to a stiff paste, roll and cut into 
lozenges. These pastilles will neutralize the acidity of the 
stomach, and will arrest decay of the teeth, in this way 
assisting to make the breath endurable, until further meas- 
ures can be taken. 

Finally, the following remedy for toothache will be of 
benefit to those who are subject to it, and it should be kept 
on hand, as it requires some time to prepare. It is best used 
by applying it to a bit of cotton, and then inserting the cot- 
ton in or near the aching tooth : 

Camphor 25 

Oil cajuput 45 

Chloroform 50 

Oil of clove 20 

Mix and dissolve by agitation, and keep tightly corked, 
until needed. Heat may also be employed to advantage, by 
applying the hot water bottle to the side of the face most 
affected. The use of the remedy given, in connection with 
heat, is rarely unsuccessful. 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

THE CARE OF THE FEET. 

To be really comfortable and happy, every woman 
should know just how to keep her feet in good condition. 
If she does not, nothing is more certain than the fact that 
she will spend a certain number of days each year in an ex- 
tremely remorseful frame of mind, unable to walk with any 
degree of ease on account of aching and tender pedal ex- 
tremities. 

The most frequent cause of trouble with the feet is sim- 
ply neglect. Of course, all civilized people do take care of 
the body and incidentally the feet by bathing at frequent 
intervals, but not one person in ten will take the trouble 
to care for them intelligently and thus prevent trouble, 
instead of going to much labor and expense curing it. When 
one considers the number of absolutely unhygienic shoes 
placed upon the market, made of materials that are bound to 
cause more or less difficulty, with heels so absurdly high 
that not only the feet but also various organs of the body 
must suffer when they are used, there is really not much 
occasion for sympathy with people who suffer because they 
wilfully place themselves in a position to bring on these 
afflictions. 

One of the first requisites for good feet is found in the 
wearing of good shoes, and by this is meant well-fitting 
shoes that will support the instep and heel without pressing 
the toes unduly. The sole should be moderately thick and 
the heel low, while the leather should not be of either patent 
kid or any other highly glazed variety, for anything of this 



THE SKIN. 237 

kind prevents ventilation and induces undue perspiration, 
making the feet tender and painful. 

The hosiery, too, should be well considered, and if pos- 
sible, all colored hose should be procured with white feet. 
The skins of some people are so sensitive that the wearing 
of even the most expensive colored hosiery invariably results 
in the appearance of eruptions like water blisters and 
terminating in a condition resembling eczema. Besides pro- 
curing the hose of this description care should be taken to 
change the stockings at least every other day, and if it can 
be arranged, every day. Fine cotton will be found the 
best hose for all occasions, as either lisle or silk are apt 
to irritate the skin in time, while in addition to the irrita- 
tion the silken hose wear out so rapidly that few people care 
to incur the expense. 

The care of the feet consists in bathing them at least 
once a day, preferably at night, in lukewarm water and soap, 
using the wash cloth carefully to cleanse the space between 
the toes, and finishing the process by powdering the sur- 
face well with a mixture of boracic acid and talcum. 

If the flesh feels at all painful and the feet are swollen, 
immediate steps should be taken to cure this condition and, 
after bathing them, the following tonic should be applied: 

Alcohol : 6 I 

Tannic acid i S 

Alum Vi 5 

Witch Hazel 2 % 

If the swelling is extremely marked it will be well to 
apply bandages soaked in the tonic and allow them to 
remain over night. Before dressing in the morning the feet 
may be sponged off with cold water, and both the stockings 



238 ' THE SKIN. 

and shoes should be dusted with the boracic acid and talcum 
mixture. 

The large and painful joint, so often a source of misery, 
may be made far more endurable by massaging it. Illustra- 
tion 34 shows the process as performed by an expert. Ordi- 
narily the foot will better rest on a pillow or pad, but for the 
purpose of illustrating the work, this position has been 
selected. Although the best work is naturally done by a 
professional, even an amateur can do wonders in the way of 
relieving this condition by supporting the foot with one hand 
while the other rubs from the instep down to each toe and in 
a gently circular motion the affected joints. 

The following mixture may then be applied to them 
and the remainder of the surface dusted over with powder. 

FOR PAINFUL JOINTS. 

Guaiacol I § 

Collodion 13 

Shake well and keep in a tightly corked bottle. 

The creme for massaging may be either the Creme 
Celeste or any other good creme, as it is simply to aid the 
fingers in manipulating the flesh. 

Corns may be removed and kept in most excellent sub- 
jection by adopting the following plan. Before attempting 
to touch them the feet should be well soaked in very warm 
water. After removing them the callous portions should 
be peeled off carefully, taking care not to use a sharp knife 
that will cut the skin in any way. As soon as all of the 
portion that will come away easily has been used, an appli- 
cation of this remedy may be made. 




Fig. 33. Massage of the Foot. 



240 THE SKIN 



CORN CURE. 



Collodion 65 

Guaiacol 1 3 

Canna. Indica . . . . , l / 2 5 

Sal. acid 1 5 

Acetic acid '. ]/ 2 5 

Add the liquid ingredient and shake well and then add 
the salicylic acid and shake well until dissolved. Keep 
tightly corked and apply with a bit of cotton wrapped 
around a slender piece of wood. If the mixture becomes 
dry it may be made liquid again by adding ether to it. This 
remedy is most excellent for removing the pain speedily and 
will, when properly used, be wonderfully efficacious as a 
cure. Each night for four nights the process should be 
continued as described, and each peeling off of the callous 
portions should be performed with the knife that is not too 
sharp. 

At the end of that time the surface should be smooth 
and free from any evidence of a corn. If it is not, the pro- 
cess may be continued until the corn has disappeared. An 
occasional application from time to time will be all that is 
necessary. 

Before using the knife it should be sterilized as directed 
in the chapter on this subject, and in case the flesh is injured 
or cut a solution of boracic acid should be used immedi- 
ately, pouring it directly on the wound and applying a small 
bandage. In the treatment of soft corns, the same rule 
may be adopted, being careful, however, not to attempt to 
do anything excepting wash out and cleanse them if they 
are festered. For this purpose peroxide of hydrogen will 
be excellent^ followed by rinsing with boracic acid solution, 




Fig. 34. Massage of the Joint to Reduce Inflammation. 



242 THE SKIN. 

and the placing of a dry bit of cotton between the toes to 
prevent the accumulation of moisture. 

Ingrown nails are subjects for skilled specialists, and 
too much stress cannot be placed upon the danger of a cut to 
flesh in this inflamed condition. An old remedy and one that 
has been much cited may be tried by those who are obliged 
to depend upon home treatment. It consists in scraping 
the center of the nail as thin as possible by means of a bit 
of broken glass, while the corners of the nails are, of course, 
raised by means of small cotton pledgets. 

If at any time there has been a cut of any kind or if the 
foot has been inj'ured and becomes swollen and angry in 
appearance the wet bandage of a saturated solution of bo- 
racic acid should be used until a physician can be consulted. 
It is never wise to neglect such injuries, as many of the most 
fatal cases of blood poisoning have come from cuts made 
while attempting to remove corns. It is for this reason that 
no cutting should be done, and instead the use of the peeling 
process insisted upon wherever it is possible so to do, the 
use of a strong acid for eating away corns should be for- 
bidden, as much of the surrounding flesh is involved, and 
the danger is too great to pay for the small chance of relief. 

The care and cure of corns is not difficult if but suffi- 
cient patience is practiced, but there can be no neglect, for 
if there is the trouble will soon be as disagreeable as ever, 
and the pain even more intense as time goes on. 

Feet that perspire too freely can usually be managed 
by bathing each night in warm water, to which a few drops 
of formalin has been added, and in the morning dusting 
the shoes with the powder made as follows: 




Fig. 35. Bandaging Inflamed Joint. 



244 THE SKIN. 

Salicylic acid 15 

Alum y 2 § 

Boracic acid ^2 5 

Starch 25 

If this is not effective enough more salicylic acid may 
replace a portion of the starch. Ordinarily, however, it will 
be found all that is required. In the use of any dusting pow- 
der absolute caution is necessary in removing the powder 
between the toes, otherwise the irritation caused by con- 
stant rubbing will cause an inflammation and possibly the 
portion will fester. The bathing each evening, when prop- 
erly done will prevent any such complication. 

Chilblains may be effectively treated by painting them 
with pure gUaiacol, or the mixture of guaiacol and collodion 
recommended for inflamed joints. To produce the best ef- 
fects this preparation should be applied not once, but sev- 
eral times a day and again at night. 



CHAPTER XXV. 

CARE OF THE HAIR. 

The proper treatment of the hair must also include a 
knowledge of the best means of securing a healthful condi- 
tion of the scalp, for hair may be compared to a plant whose 
growth depends largely upon the quality of the soil, the 
amount of air, sunlight and careful attention given it. 
Ordinarily the care of the hair is restricted to very infre- 
quent shampoos taken more to insure comfort from the 
peculiar itching condition present when the scalp is neg- 
lected, than because of interest in the best manner of keep- 
ing the scalp and hair in good condition. People with fine 
hair almost invariably abuse it, and only begin to realize 
the necessity for treatment when it commences falling out 
or splitting at the ends or turning a peculiar shade from the 
application of strong tonics or poor shampoos. 

THE HAIR. 

The hairs are columnar epithelian formations, the lower 
parts of which are imbedded in the corium and sub-cutis, 
while the upper portions project upward through the epider- 
mis and above the surface of the skin. We recognize two 
varieties, the true hairs found on the scalp, eye-brows, eye- 
lashes, etc., and the lanugo or soft down found on the face, 
trunk, etc., and differing from each other only in point of 
size. 

Hairs are generally implanted obliquely in the skin, in 
consequence of the connective tissue bundles of the corium. 
They are both elastic and strong, being capable of great 



246 THE SKIN. 

extension and able to bear heavy weights. The length which 
hair may attain, varies in different individuals, in different 
localities. They grow to a certain length and then stop and 
fall out, the rate of growth being about one half an inch a 
month. The life of an individual hair, varies from two to 
five years, of an eye-lash, from one hundred to one hundred 
and fifty days. Warmth and frequent cutting promotes 
their growth. 

We distinguish as belonging to the hair, ist, the shaft 
or that portion projecting above the skin ; 2d, a root situated 
in the corium, and the subcutaneous tissue, and ending in a 
knobbed extremity ; 3rd, a follicle being an involution or the 
dermic layers of the skin in which the hair is placed. 

The shaft or scapus, is a long and unusually straight 
column, tapering at its free extremity. It consists of a cen- 
tral-portion called the medulla or marrow, composed of 
cells containing fat and free pigment granules. 

The mass of the hair, however is made up of cortical 
substances consisting of elongated, flattened, epithelial cells. 
Outside of these cells is a delicate membrane, resisting the 
hair substance and binding its bundles closely together. It 
consists of flat, cornified, epithelial cells overlapping one 
another. 

2. The root or radix is thicker than the shaft and ends 
in an expansion, known as the hair bulb. In the bottom of 
this bulb, is a cup shaped depression, which rests upon the 
papillae at the base of the follicle. In its structure, the 
root is the same as the shaft, but the cortical substance is 
loose and spongy and consists of cells closely resembling 
those of the mucous or malpighian layer. 

3. The follicle or hair sac, is a bag-like inversion of the 
corium. It is cylindrical with a narrow mouth on the sur- 



THE SKIN. 247 

face of the skin, and a larger rounded extremity that lies in 
the corium of the sub-cutis. A little below the level of the 
corium, is a constriction known as the neck, and here the 
ducts of the sebaceous glands open into the follicle. The 
follicles vary much in size in different localities, but in gen- 
eral, they are from 2 to 6 M. M. in length. At the base of 
the follicle, issues the papilla, a small club shaped projection 
about 1/10 M. M. in size, which fits into the hollow at the 
bottom of the hair bulb. This papilla is really a modified 
papilla of the corium and contains the vessels that nourish 
the hair as well as the nerve fibres. The growth and regen- 
eration of the hair takes place from the papilla. New ele- 
ments are found there, which elongate and work up pushing 
the hair before them. New hair grows from the old 
papillae when the former are lost or pulled out. 

Hair plugs remaining in the follicle, can check the 
growth of new hair, and it is for this reason that friction, 
stimulation and the use of follicle brush and cleanser and 
negative current, is so excellent for the purpose of dissolv- 
ing and thus removing the obstructions. 

The pigment of the hair depends on the color of the 
cortical substance and also on the air contained by the me- 
dulla. The basis color, is always blonde to red pigment in 
granules ; and diffused, gives the shade from brown to 
black. Soaps, alkalis, and especially peroxide of hydrogen, 
destroy the pigment, while the presence of much air in the 
cortical substance renders the hair white. The hair is so 
elastic that it is capable of being extended one-third of its 
length, and then after being elongated it will recoil until it is 
but 1/18 of an inch longer than before. 

Although hair is indissoluble in water, nitric acid turns 
it yellow 7 and hydrochloric and sulphuric acids, and metallic 



248 THE SKIN. 

acids and also some organic substances, change the color 
and hence the many dyes used for this purpose. 

In general, the health of the hair depends on the health 
of the scalp, and therefore the greatest care should be ex- 
erted to keep the scalp in most excellent condition and free 
from all foreign substances. 

Upon the surface of a quarter of an inch Withof found 
of the black hair 147, brown 162 and blonde 182, thus show- 
ing that the black hair is the thickest and the blonde the 
thinnest. 

Oken has observed that the hair formation is the con- 
nective link between vegetable and animal tissue, and states 
his opinions as follows : "The fur is the peripheral con- 
nection between the plant and the animal. The hair forms 
the summit of the vegetables. As the plant requires air 
and light, so, in the animal kingdom the hair appears where 
it is most exposed to these elements, namely, on the surface. 
It is not a little remarkable that those mammals which stand 
nearest the man, the anthropid apes, are distinguished by 
their great development of the capillary system. " 

To the earnest student the words quoted have a deep 
significance, for they point to the proper course of treatment 
as nothing else can. and show plainly that the perfect human 
being should be under no need of stimulating tonics or 
treatments if the open crowned hats and physical culture 
work could be universally known. Any curative treatments 
should be extended not only to the scalp, but also to the 
entire body, at least so far as giving advice as to diet, man- 
ner of exercise and any other point that may improve the 
general health. 

The greater number of scalp diseases could be avoided 
if more people could be made to realize the necessity for sys- 



THE SKIN. 249 

tern in shampooing and caring for the scalp and hair. Many 
instances might be cited in which excessive falling of the 
hair has been checked in one or two treatments by the use of 
massage and electricity, and stimulating tonic. Unfortu- 
nately, however, the majority of people neglect the use of 
any of these measures until the loss of hair has been ex- 
tremely great and the follicles so weakened by neglect of the 
scalp that it is impossible to do much, excepting to pre- 
serve the tresses that are left. There are innumerable 
cases in which the falling of the hair commences in children 
of fifteen and continues year by year until as manhood or 
womanhood is reached the condition is truly mortifying. 
So much of this trouble is entirely unnecessary that it seems 
strange indeed to know how few people really have interest 
enough to acquire knowledge in the proper care of this 
most important attribute. 

To begin with, few scalps are cleansed as they should 
be. The majority of people cleanse them frequently but not 
wisely, for in the desire to possess fluffy locks they employ 
all kinds of injurious substances that sooner or later destroy 
the vitality of the hair. Among the common recipes for this 
purpose may be mentioned the use of salts of tartar, strong 
ammonia water, soda, borax and other articles that are too 
numerous to mention. Sometimes a simple shampoo is used 
and the hair is rinsed with another mixture containing an 
acid. Nitric acid will, it is true, turn the hair yellow, but 
is so powerful that it can also eat holes in nearly every sub- 
stance when used pure, while hydrochloric and sulphuric 
acid can actually dissolve the hair. Thus every strong alkali 
or acid used will in some way injure the tresses in such a 
manner that it will be nearly impossible to remedy the 
trouble. 



250 THE SKIN. 

Every scalp should be thoroughly cleansed at least as 
often as once in ten days, and if the hair is to be kept in 
good condition the process must be one that shall remove 
the dirt, dust and sebaceous secretions without extracting 
too much oil. The best shampoo is one not too strongly 
alkaline that can still leave the hair as it should 'be, and for 
this purpose there are several excellent recipes. 

In Germany the use of bran water is extremely common 
and as it makes a good, though simple, shampoo some of 
the readers may enjoy trying it. 

BRAN SHAMPOO. 

Water i gal. 

Bran I qt. 

Ivory soap ]/ 2 bar 

Boil the bran with the water for about an hour and then 
strain and add the soap shaved into small bits. Enough of 
this is used to make a good lather and the scalp is covered 
with it. Perhaps it may be well to explain that in sham- 
pooing few people really pay enough attention to the scalp. 
The best shampoo is given in this manner. 

The hair is, of course, smoothly brushed and is sepa- 
rated strand by strand, while the shampoo mixture is poured 
upon the scalp. As soon as the surface is well covered the 
tips of the fingers (not the nails) may be employed to rub 
the fluid in well, examining from time to time to see that the 
friction is not too vigorous and also to see if the cleansing is 
proceeding well. As soon as the surface has been well 
manipulated the mixture should be washed off with warm 
water and some more of the mixture poured on. The second 
process is usually all that is necessary, and as this is fin- 



THE SKIN. 251 

ished the hair itself should be washed with the shampoo 
and the scalp well rinsed, using first very warm water, then 
cooler, rinsing in water of medium temperature at least 
twice and ending with water as cold as the patient can en- 
dure in order to stimulate the scalp as much as possible. 

The hair may be dried by any one of several methods, 
but in actual practice the use of the electric drier will be 
found the best, quickest and most practical alike for opera- 
tor and subject. Not only is far less time consumed in the 
operation, but also the mauling, pulling and altogether disa- 
greeable treatment with the heavy bath-towels is avoided. 
The air is never hot enough to ca*use any trouble in making 
the hair split or look dead and in addition the saving of time 
is something most important in this busy age. An ordinary 
head of hair can be dried in six minutes, while a very heavy 
hair does not consume more than ten. 

In the illustration the process is shown as conducted by 
one of the best modern machines on the market. 

Egg shampoos, while popular, do not seem to be the best 
for all scalps. The following recipe is one much used by 
those who can secure good results. 

EGG SHAMPOO. 

Yolks of three eggs well beaten. 

One pint of warm, soft water. 

One ounce of spirits rosemary. 

Beat well together and use as any shampoo by applying 
to the scalp. In this much care must be taken to rinse the 
scalp well. 

For those who wish to employ a practical as well as ex- 
tremely good recipe, the following will be found excellent. 
It not only cleanses the scalp, but also leaves the hair in a 
fine condition, and is not particularly expensive. 



252 THE SKIN. 



SHAMPOO MIXTURE. 



Green soap 4 o 

Castile soap , 45 

Water dist . 1 qt 

Alcohol 85 

Boil the soaps in water until a thick mixture results, and 
then add the alcohol, and keep in a tightly corked bottle 
until ready for use. The mixture will, of course, be diluted 
with water when necessary, and this quantity will be suf- 
ficient for many shampoos. 

If a tar soap is desired it may be made in the same man- 
ner, or by simply boiling it up with water until a shampoo 
of the desired consistency is obtained. 

After the shampoo, while the scalp is still moist, a good 
tonic may be used to good advantage and should be rubbed 
in vigorously, unless the scalp is at all irritated. In this 
even the application of pure witch hazel will be found most 
soothing. In case the hairs are split the ends should be 
trimmed and enough clipped away to give an opportunity 
for a healthy grow T th. 

If any one has been unfortunate enough to be afflicted 
by the presence of vermin, it is well to apply this ointment 
before shampooing: 

Petroleum 5 3 

Olive oil 2]/ 2 3 

Bals. Peru 1 3 

This ointment may be rubbed in well with a piece of 
white flannel and allowed to remain at least twelve hours, 
or if possible, twenty-four. At the end of this time not only 
the vermin are destroyed, but the ova are also made harm- 



THE SKIN. 253 

less. To be perfectly safe, it is well to repeat this dose the 
following day, and if the scalp is irritated apply a bland 
ointment. For removing the ova from the hair a dilute solu- 
tion of acetic acid may be used very successfully, as it dis- 
solves the gluey substance by which the "nots" are secured 
in place. Even if the head becomes completely infested, it is 
not necessary to cut the hair, as this treatment will be all 
that is necessary. 




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CHAPTER XXVI. 

TREATMENT OF SCALP AND HAIR. 

There is an ever increasing demand for some agent that 
shall stop the falling of hair, and, although every one real- 
izes that poor health, sedentary occupations and improper 
modes of living are very frequent causes, still there are 
numerous cases where the trouble is caused by lack of care 
and the consequent weakened condition of the tresses and 
the uncleanly scalp. The most important requisites for a 
really fine condition of both hair and scalp apart from the 
very necessary cleanliness are, ventilation, and the proper 
amount of friction. In many instances where delicate chil- 
dren have the trouble of scanty locks as well, the systematic 
care after w r eekly shampoos has done wonders. No matter 
whether the hair is extremely oily or exceptionally dry, 
long or short, the foundation of all good work is based on 
the adoption of certain sensible rules, and it may be con- 
fidently asserted that if more people would understand and 
practice these instructions there would be few cases of bald 
heads. 

The process of giving scalp massage is daily gaining a 
wider recognition on account of the immense benefit derived 
wherever this practice has been faithfully carried out. It 
may be given either with or without the electric current, and 
is usually commenced by parting the hair in straight lines 
from the forehead toward the back of the neck, and employ- 
ing the two first fingers of each hand as shown in illustration 
36 for administering the massage. 

To do the best work, the fingers must be placed firmly 




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THE SKIN. 2S7 

on the scalp and then pressed in such a manner that the scalp 
is manipulated without pulling the hair. The movement is 
made both forward and backward several times, continuing 
the work over every portion and using either an oil or witch 
hazel, or a good hair tonic to keep the scalp moist during 
the work. 

The next step is shown in illustration 37. Here the 
thumbs of each hand are kept in a stationary position at the 
back of the scalp while the fingers are spread out and under 
the hair, keeping firmly in place while the massage is con- 
tinued by moving the scalp with this pressure 

This manipulation of the scalp sometimes precedes but 
usually follows the use of the galvanic current in which as 
shown in illustration 38 the negative electrode in the 
shape of the follicle brush is used for a thorough stimulation 
for the scalp. In the meantime in order to render the 
scalp in the most receptive condition the follicle cleanser 
should be liberally sponged onto the surface. For ordinary 
forms of scalp trouble this treatment is excellent, for it 
gives the quickest and most effective local stimulation. 

Following the use of the galvanic current as described, 
the scalp massage may be given with the finger tips and the 
faradic current employed if desired. 

The vibratory massage is another popular method of 
increasing the blood supply to the scalp, and the illustration 
shows the most practical method of work, in protecting the 
hair from any danger of being entangled in the applicator 
by means of a clean towel wrapped over the hair. The 
stimulating effect is quite as great and the operation is far 
more pleasant for the subject. 

The sanitary brush made entirely of metal, and which 
has practically superseded the old style brush owing to the 




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THE SKIN. 259 

fact that it is indestructible can be used still later on in the 
treatment if desired, and the tonic may be applied and used 
with this brush. 

Many new operators complain that they can get no 
effect from the galvanic current used on the scalp. This is 
because hair itself is a poor conductor of electricity, and 
because the scalp has not been thoroughly moistened. Care 
should therefore be taken to see in every instance the fol- 
licle cleanser or tonic have been applied in such a manner 
as to make the surface thoroughly damp, and after this but 
little trouble will be experienced. 

The result of this treatment while not seen immediately 
is usually manifested in a very short time and is undeniably 
pleasing to any who are in need of scalp stimulation. Many 
people have employed this process of manipulation at home 
for ten minutes each day with truly remarkable results in 
increasing the growth of the hair and banishing every sign 
of dandruff. 

This treatment is always finished by the application of a 
good tonic well rubbed in, and it may be observed that a 
tonic so employed has a far better effect than when it is 
used without the preliminary treatment. The recipe given 
is highly praised and will be found most efficacious for 
the purpose. 

STIMULATING TONIC. 

Tincture of cantharides 2 3 

Fl. Ext. of jaborandi I 3 

Glycerine I 3 

Alcohol 2 § 

Cologne 1 3 

Water sufficient to make 10 § 

Bichl. mercury . . . .^ 2 gr. 




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THE SKIN. 



261 



This mixture will need to be filtered several times be- 
fore it is clear enough for use, and then it will be found ex- 
tremely beneficial. 

When loss of hair is caused by nervous touble the use 
of electricity is of added value, as it acts as a sedative to 
the nerves as well as a stimulant to the scalp. Headaches, 
either nervous or neuralgic, are relieved speedily and thus 
in many instances the health is improved. When the hair 
is exceptionally oily and the scalp feels cold and looks white 
and lifeless, the galvanic current may be used to great ben- 
efit in this manner. A bit of cotton well saturated with a 




Hairbrush Electrode. 



stimulating tonic is placed in the handle connected to the 
positive pole and placed upon the scalp, while the negative 
electrode is held in the hand. The entire scalp is treated 
in this manner and the treatment is finished by giving the 
scalp massage as directed. Treatments for this peculiarity 
must be given at least twice a week and the work done at 
home should also be of a nature that will assist in this 
process. 

If it is impossible to obtain electric treatments and they 
are found to be necessary it will be advisable for patients 
to secure their own batteries with the brush attachment and 
thus be in a position to use the current as often as they like. 

In connection with this topic it may be well to mention 




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THE SKIN. 263 

the practice of clipping or singeing the hair. There has 
been for many years a difference of opinion on these points, 
and until recently few of the higher authorities have seen 
fit to give much attention to the discussion. Now it is de- 
cided that clipping is the best method, as burning takes 
away too much of the vitality. The split ends are so nu- 
merous in some cases that it seems almost impossible to 
find all of them, but if the hair is twisted in small strands 
and then roughed by moving the fingers from the tip to- 
ward the head, the small scissors can easily pass along and 
get the worst hairs, while subsequent treatments will be 
sufficient to keep them all well trimmed. This work should 
be done at least once every four weeks and does much to 
keep the hair in good condition. By following the hints 
given here, any head of hair may be kept in good condition 
and the majority of cases of falling of the tresses stopped. 



CHAPTER XXVII. 

THE TREATMENT OF DANDRUFF OR SEBORRHEA. 

Dandruff has been called by a very eminent authority 
— "catarrh of the epidermis" — and as there are many varie- 
ties of catarrh so there are numerous complications of this 
very disagreeable and common scalp affection. At times it 
is a short-lived affair, at others, most persistent, and as it is 
always objectionable, the best manner of treatment should 
be one of interest to everyone so afflicted. 

SEBORRHEA. 

Synonym — Steatorrhea. 

Definition. — Seborrhea or dandruff is a functional dis- 
ease of the sebaceous glands, characterized by an excessive 
and abnormal secretion of sebum, which appears as an oily 
coating or as a crust upon the skin. 

Symptoms and Course. — Seborrhea occurs anywhere 
where there are sebaceous glands, and is commonest upon 
the scalp, the face, the genitals, and the anterior and pos- 
terior surfaces of the chest. The infection may be a slight 
one, limited in area, and readily removed : or it may be ex- 
tensive and severe, and very rebellious in treatment. We 
distinguish two separate clinical forms, in accordance with 
whether the sebaceous material that accumulates upon the 
skin is fluid and oily, or solid forming crusts and scales. 

Seborrhea oleosa is the more frequent form of the in- 
fection, especially in the negro race, where it is so frequent 
as to be almost the normal condition. The skin is greasy to 
the touch, and glistening and the fatty material may even be 



THE SKIN. 265 

abundant enough to accumulate as minute drops of oil. It 
occurs on the nose and face, and bald scalps are rendered 
more shining by its presence. The dust and coal-soot of 
the atmosphere settle on the oily coating and stick there, 
giving to the skin a dirty gray or blackish appearance. The 
ducts of the sebaceous glands are usually markedly dilated, 
and may be seen large and patulous or plugged with come- 
dones. 

Seborrhea sicca is also a common condition, affecting 
both the hairy and the non-hairy regions of the body. It is 
of especial frequency upon the scalp, and is the common 
cause of premature baldness. It appears as thin, white and 
greasy scales, which become yellowish or brownish as they 
desiccate and become dirty. The skin beneath is grayish 
white and anemic, and when excessive accumulation of the 
scale causes irritation, a mild eczematous inflammation is set 
up. 

Seborrhea may in rare cases be universal. This is 
physiological in the new-born infant, where the half dried 
sebaceous secretion forms a vernix caseosa. The super- 
abundant secretion usually continues in the scalp during the 
first year of life, and where there is not sufficient cleanliness 
accumulates in thick dark-yellow or brownish masses, the 
so called "cradle crust." But in most cases, seborrhea is 
partial and affects only a limited area of the skin. 

Seborrhea is the commonest form of the malady, and 
as the chief cause of baldness, one of the most important. 
The excessive glandular secretion accumulates as more or 
less fatty, dirty yellowish white scales occupying circum- 
scribed areas or diffused over the entire scalp. The hairs 
are fatty and sticky, and become matted together, and want 
of cleanliness may lead to a -tangling up of the hair with 






266 THE SKIN. 

sebum and dirt. Later on there occurs excessive cornifica- 
tion and desquamation of the epithelial cells ; and the min- 
gled sebum and scales are cast off as dandruff, the white 
scales of which powder the patients' clothes. Being unac- 
companied by any subjective sensation further than a mod- 
erate itching. This condition is usually allowed to persist 
for years without treatment, and it is only when the final 
stage sets in that the medical aid is sought. The hairs then 
lose their luster and get loose ; the follicles begin to atrophy 
and the hair to fall out. The baldness begins upon the ver- 
tix, or above the forehead, and may go so far that only a 
fringe of hair is left around the nape of the neck and ears. 
The denuded scalp is shiny, and attached firmly to the skull 
beneath. More rarely than upon the head a similar process 
takes place in the mustache, beard, and eyebrows. In some 
of these cases there is more or less hyperemia ; epithelial 
proliferation is a more prominent factor ; the itching is more 
intense ; and they stand on the boundary line between pity- 
riasis and the malady under consideration. 

Seborrhea facei and seborrhea nasi are common locali- 
zations of the disease and appear both in the oily and the 
dry form. In the former the alae nasi and the cheeks are 
the parts most commonly affected. The skin is covered 
with a layer of oily matter, mingled with more or less dirt 
from the atmosphere. The mouths of the glands are large 
and prominent, and comedones acne papules, and rosaceous 
patches are often present. In the dry form the sides and 
tips of the nose and the forehead are covered with small 
dark yellow, fatty, adherent scales, and the skin beneath is 
frequently irritated. 

Etiology. — General impairment of health seems to be 
the main predisposing factor of the disease; occurs most 



THE SKIN. 267 

commonly in anemic and chlorotic individuals suffering 
from the irregularities of the bowels or of the menstrual 
function. Nevertheless, it is often seen in robust individu- 
als, in whom we are at loss to account for its advent. 

Prognosis. — The general prognosis of seborrhea is 
good, though some cases are very obstinate, especially where 
the genitals are affected. 

In seborrhea of the scalp, also, our opinion as to the 
possibility of a regrowth of hair moist be a guarded one. 
We have no means of telling what proportion of the hair 
follicles are still capable of growth. The patient should also 
be informed that treatment will inevitably cause an increased 
falling out of the hairs at first, but that none will be lost that 
are not loosened and ready to come out, while feeble ones 
will be strengthened and stimulated. 

Treatment. — The treatment of seborrhea is, above all 
things a matter requiring much time and great patience. 
The general treatment must be directed to regulation of 
hygiene and correction of any ascertainable fault in gastro 
intestinal and uterine functions. Fresh air, abundant exer- 
cise, daily salt water baths and proper food are of import- 
ance. 

The local treatments consist in removing the crusts and 
lessening the excessive secretory action of the sebaceous 
glands. The former is affected by softening them by the 
continuous application of scalp cleanser. If the scalp is 
affected, a piece of oil silk or a bathing cap should be worn 
during the night to protect the bed clothes and keep the 
parts moist. If this is not sufficient green soap should be 
employed, best in the form of the spiritus saponis kalinus. 
This used as a shampoo with hot water once a day with the 
oil, in most obstinate cases, will cause most of the crusts to 



268 THE SKIN. 

disappear, and so soften the rest that there is no difficulty 
in removing them with a soft cloth or a comb. 

In seborrhea capitas the above preliminary treatment 
should be employed to remove the crusts, and since they 
accumulate quite rapidly, it must be repeated once or twice 
a week during the entire course of the treatment. It is never 
necessary to cut the hair; but by carefully parting it and 
using a hard bristle brush dipped in the ointment or lotion, 
and brushing it into the scalp, successive areas of the skin 
may be treated until the whole has been covered. 

The treatment of seborrhea oleosa differs in no way 
from that of the dry form of the disease, save that the pre- 
liminary treatment for the removal of the crusts is not re- 
quired. 

In severe cases of dandruff the removal of the crusts 
will frequently seem to increase the loss of hair, as im- 
poverished by the course of the disease, and with weakened 
follicles, a complete cleansing such as will be necessary will 
sometimes cause a loss of hair so great that the patient will 
fear baldness. This loss is absolutely unavoidable and even 
if the treatment is not commenced will begin sooner or later 
and the baldness will really be a permanent affliction. If, 
however, the dandruff is removed as indicated, the scalp 
massaged and treated, and the follicles strengthened, the 
hair will be encouraged to new growth, and by care, future 
trouble may be avoided. 

In addition to the use of the scalp food for the pur- 
pose of softening the scales and crusts, the use of electric 
treatments will be found of inestimable benefit and in the 
cases of excessive formation of dandruff the negative cur- 
rent will be especially indicated as by its action the scales 
and crust may be the more easily loosened and removed. 



THE SKIN. 269 

As much stimulation as possible together with vibration and 
in fact everything that can be devised to aid in restoring 
the scalp to healthful condition should be used patiently and 
persistently. 

In this connection it should be explained that often 
several courses of treatments will be necessary in order to 
produce a really marked result. The soaking of the scalp 
with the oily substance must positively be insisted upon, and 
the stimulation rigorously employed right from the begin- 
ning, if success is to be assured. 

Hyde declares that in exceptionally bad cases of dan- 
druff the application of the oils and the shampoo should be 
alternated — -using each every other day for just as long as 
there is an indication of the disease. 

The average woman objects to the use of oil and the 
average operator wants to please her subject, hence the 
necessity for impressing the fact that the scalp food must 
be used day after day when the condition demands it. The 
exposure of the scalp to the rays of ordinary sunlight will 
also be found beneficial, while of course the use of the blue 
light is always of advantage in forcing in the scalp food 
as well as in its effect upon the scalp. 

SIMPLE SHAMPOO. 

Green soap 2 g 

Alcohol 2 § 

Rosemary Tinct Yz 3 

Dissolve the green soap in the alcohol and add the tinc- 
ture of rosemary and pour enough on the scalp to cover it, 
rubbing and applying enough water to make a good lather. 
It may be necessary to apply this shampoo several times 
in order to thoroughly cleanse the scalp of the oil and 



270 THE SKIN. 

dandruff. After it is cleaned it may be examined, and if it 
appears reddened and irritated, the scalp food may be 
rubbed in carefully. 

In very severe cases, although this treatment seems 
wonderfully successful, the end of the second day will find 
a fresh deposit of the plates of dandruff, and it will be 
necessary to repeat the operation described for perhaps six 
or seven times at intervals of every three or four days until 
the tendency has been cured. As soon as the scalp can be 
cleaned without appearing at all irritated, a stimulating 
tonic may be used, and for this purpose nothing is better 
than this plan. 

Immediately after the shampoo apply to the scalp pure 
witch hazel and rub it well with the tips of the fingers. 
Repeat this process again at night and the second or third 
day use the tonic. 

Of course, in instances where the first cleansing has 
been all that is necessary this tonic may be used immediately 
or perhaps, better still, after the first day, using witch hazel 
first as described. 

The cases where the oily secretions occur are treated in 
exactly the same manner in the matter of cleaning, as the 
scalp will need to be well soaked in order to free the scalp 
from the fatty material. The tonic used will, however, be 
different from the other, and may be applied immediately 
after the shampoo. It is made thus : 

TONIC FOR OILY SCALP. 

Quinine sulphate 20 gr. 

Bay rum 40 

Tinct. cantharides 1 5 

Tinct. capsicum 1 3 

Distilled water 8 \ 



THE SKIN. 



271 



In addition to this tonic treatment instructions should 
be given to the patient to bathe frequently, taking at least 
three warm baths a week, and if possible finishing each 
one with a thorough rubbing with salt. 

One of the greatest causes for discontent in the work 
described here is not so much the failure to remove the 
dandruff, for the method described will positively do that, 
but in impressing upon people that the treatment must be 
continued until the scalp is in an absolutely healthful con- 
dition. When the loss of hair has been extremely great 




A very desirable Germ-proof Hairbrush. 



and the condition has been found to be complicated with 
eczema, even longer periods are required. Even when no 
complication exists and the loss of hair has been marked, it 
is often impossible to do much excepting to prevent further 
loss, for if the follicles are dead no new hair will appear 
in these portions. 

Those who are possessed of that very desirable requisite 
persistence, will positively succeed in curing the most 
obstinate cases of dandruff, and the competent masseuse 
should have no difficulty in impressing upon her patients 
the necessity for application. After the condition has been 
cured shampoos should be taken at least every ten days, 
and if possible one treatment a week for scalp massage in 
connection with electrical applications. Of course, the 



272 THE SKIN. 

proper amount of rubbing will be done at home, and the 
scalp and hair should be thus kept in extremely good condi- 
tion. In any and every case, the applications of oil first, 
are positively necessary, and must be made frequently, as 
directed, if the results are to be good, 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 

COMMON DISEASES OF THE SCALP. 

Alopecia means a diminution in the quantity of hair, 
and is really the name for the symptoms of baldness that 
occur during the course of various diseases. It is custom- 
ary to distinguish several varieties in accordance with the 
causation, time of appearance, etc. 

As the student should be familiar with all of these 
names in order to talk intelligently upon the subject, it will 
be well for her to learn the definitions of each variety. 

Alopecia congenita is that form of baldness found in 
infants which in some cases prevents a growth of hair until 
later in life and in a few instances has caused entire bald- 
ness all during life. It is considered a deformity rather 
than a disease for which there is no cure, though, of course 
stimulation and treatments may always be tried. 

Alopecia senilis is the permanent loss of hair that oc- 
curs in old age and is to a certain extent, a physiological 
process though it also occurs most markedly and earlier in 
cases afflicted with seborrhea sicca or dry dandruff. The 
hair turns gray, becomes dry and lusterless, and is not re- 
placed. The skin of the affected area is at first normal, but 
afterward becomes thinned shining and tense. 

Alopecia prematurea is similar to alopecia senilis, but 
begins in much earlier subjects between the ages of twenty 
and thirty years, and is not preceded by grayness. Usually 
the baldness begins at the vertix and spreads in a vertical 
manner and always continuously, until the baldness is com- 
plete. Sometimes this disease produces an entire baldness in 



274 THE SKIN. 

the space of a few weeks or months. In other cases it takes 
years. 

Alopecia symptomatica is the name given to falling of 
the hair when it occurs as the result of various general or 
local conditions. It may be partial or complete, permanent 
or temporary. This is the name given the condition that 
follows or accompanies syphilis, erysipelas and the various 
fevers such as typhoid, scarlet, variola, etc. Usually with 
care and treatment the hair will grow out as luxuriantly 
as ever. 

Alopecia pityrodes, is perhaps the commonest form of 
the disease and baldness and occurs associated with chronic 
seborrhea. It occurs at all ages and begins with an ordinary 
dry seborrhea with slight reddening, scaling and itchiness 
of the scalp. The scales may be white, dry and composed 
chiefly of epithelium, but ordinarily they are grayish, greasy 
and seborrheal. The nutrition of the hair is interfered 
with, they become harsh, lustreless and dry and fall out. 

Alopecia areata is the term given to loss of hair caus- 
ing the appearance of more or less circumscribed white 
patches of varying size and shape, sometimes spreading to 
more or less complete baldness. 

This disease usually affects the beard and mustache in 
men and occasions a most peculiar and unusual appearance 
quite as unpleasing to the beholder as to the victim. There 
is no inflammatory action or scaling in this disease and the 
skin of the affected areas seems whiter than normal. The 
course of the disease varies a good deal. Recoveries some- 
times take months. The causes are not known, though 
some authorities favor the parasitic origin and some the 
fact that an injury to the nerves produces this condition. In 
any event the trouble is often found as a result of nothing 



THE SKIN. 275 

but nervous conditions and general as well as local treat- 
ment, therefore causes much benefit. 

In all cases of alopecia the treatment must be directed 
to the stimulation and nutrition of the scalp and therefore 
the use of the tonics, massage, healing ointments and elec- 
tricity will be found our most valuable agents. - All efforts 
must be directed toward administering the greatest amount 
of stimulation that the skin will bear, the special means em- 
ployed for that purpose being, of course, adapted to the 
trouble found, though ordinarily it will be found that the 
use of the negative galvanic current, deep massage, use of 
vibration and the blue light with tonics and scalp food 
w r ill do wonders in even the most obstinate conditions. 

Eczema of the scalp requires a varied treatment accord- 
ing to the age of the patient, length of time the condition has 
endured, length and thickness of the hair, general health, 
etc. 

In all cases the patient should be requested to adopt a 
sensible diet, attend particularly to the use of laxatives, 
thus insuring the absence of constipation. If there is a 
suspicion that the eczema is caused by the use of a hair dye 
or restorer, all such applications must cease. 

For the dry, squamous eczema the use of the scalp 
food rubbed in carefully each night with a shampoo taken at 
least twice a week and a use of the galvanic current and long 
exposure to the blue light will do much toward causing a 
speedy recovery, though of course in this connection it must 
be remembered that frequently several weeks will be re- 
quired in order to get the best results from any treatment. 

For the pustular or exuding variety of the disease thick 
crusts are apt to form. Often an application of the scalp 
food, forced in by a half hour's application of the blue light 



276 THE SKIN. 

for several days in succession will so soften and loosen these 
crusts that they may be lifted with the forceps and the food 
applied to the skin underneath before the shampoo. In some 
instances this treatment is not effective, and in such a rubber 
cap should be worn for one or two nights and then an ap- 
plication of five drams of almond oil, one of lanoline and five 
drops of carbolic acid used. The shampoo will usually re- 
remove the crusts, and by careful attention the condition 
can soon be relieved. 

Electricity and the blue light will also be found a pow- 
erful aid in the treatment of this condition and these reme- 
dies should never be neglected. 

Favus is a contagious parasitic disease of the scalp not 
especially common in this country, seldom found among 
people of cleanly habits, but when found sometimes mis- 
taken for trichophytosis capitis — or ringworm. 

It begins as a small reddish spot the size of a pin-head 
around the orifices of the hair follicles. These spots soon 
enlarge and assume a yellowish tinge growing until small 
masses the size of a pea with cup-like depressions are 
formed. They appear as yellow disks firmly attached to the 
skin, and pierced in the center by one or more hairs. Left 
to themselves these cups finally fall off, leaving depressed 
hairless areas behind them. The hair in such instances is 
dry, wiry and lustreless, while the odor from the scalp is 
most characteristic and "mouse-like." 

The treatment consists in the removal of all the affected 
hairs with the epilation forceps. The scalp should be well 
anointed with the scalp food and cleanser each night, and a 
rubber cap worn. In the morning the surface should be 
shampooed with a green soap mixture and this treatment 
continued for six days. Then omitted for two or three 



THE SKIN. 277 

days and resumed again until a cure is completed. The 
shampoo is most important and should not be omitted as 
otherwise a speedy cure cannot be obtained. 

Psoriasis, though not as common as eczema, is still very 
frequently found, and constitutes one of the most important 
of the inflammatory skin diseases. It affects all ages and 
people of both sexes, is intermittent in character and usually 
more severe in winter. It is found in athletes as well as 
those of sedentary occupations, and is differentiated from 
eczema by the fact that it appears in more or less circum- 
scribed masses or patches covered with silvery white scales. 
When the crusts are lifted, minute bleeding points are ex- 
hibited. 

Hygiene, bathing and good habits have a marked ef- 
fect upon this trouble and arsenic is frequently prescribed 
as an internal remedy in connection with treatments. 

Ordinarily the use of the negative current over these 
masses is very helpful. After the patches have been loos- 
ened and lifted up the scalp food and cleanser should be 
applied and forced in well with the blue light and these 
oily applications alternating with frequent shampoos and 
general treatments for the scalp given until the scalp is free 
from trouble. No authorities promise cure and in fact most 
of them disagree as to whether psoriasis is inherited or ac- 
quired, a disease or a deformity of the skin, but notwith- 
standing this, the writer has found in electricity and in 
treatments conducted as described, a most remarkably 
pleasing effect often resulting in complete relief from the 
intolerable itching that otherwise made the trouble so un- 
bearable. 

Trichophytosis or ringworm is a disease resulting from 
a parasitic growth that affects the hair follicles. The dis- 



27S THE SKIN. 

ease is very contagious and may be acquired from animals. 
It may also be acquired from combs, brushes, or the use of 
the same caps, hats, etc. When first noticed there are usu- 
ally one or more small round patches upon which the hair is 
broken off close to the scalp. These partially bald patches 
are covered with fine scales and present a white, powdery 
appearance. Sometimes small half spheres appear, very 
painful, almost like abscesses and filled with a semi-fluid 
substance. 

As this disease is one invading the hair follicle it is not 
only necessary to use an antiseptic ointment, but also to use 
the epilation forceps for removing all the diseased hairs. 
The scalp ointment should be applied not once, but many 
times a day, and the spots shampooed daily until improve- 
ment takes place. Great care must be taken in the use of 
towels, combs, etc., as this disease is most contagious. 

However, with due care no trouble need be experienced 
and in all cases in which proper precautions and strict 
asepsis has been observed, the results have been most pleas- 
ing. 

There are many remedies advocated by different au- 
thorities for the treatment of all these affections. In every 
instance, however, it will usually be found that the same 
results are desired. First of all stimulation is desired. For 
this purpose we can have nothing better than electricity and 
massage. The scalp food and cleanser embraces all the 
advantages of the antiseptic measures advocated, and has 
also a healing penetrating property not always found in the 
other remedies, while the follicle cleanser and tonics men- 
tioned aid in completing a very effective number of prepara- 
tions that can always be used with advantage. 

In all these cases, however, it must be remembered 



THE SKIN. 275 

that the use of an oily material is plainly indicated and must 
be insisted upon if a cure is to be the result. Nothing great 
can be accomplished in a few treatments, but instead often 
weeks of patient work with the fullest co-operation on the 
part of the patient will be needed in order to secure either 
pleasing or lasting results. Diseases affecting the scalp and 
causing a loss of hair are often said to be results of our 
civilization, and hence we must patiently work in order to 
overcome bad effects contingent on this always considered 
desirable condition. Explain all the points of your treat- 
ment to your patients. Show "what" you desire to accom- 
plish and "why/! and you will find instead of unbelief a keen 
interest in the progress of the work. 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

HOW TO DYE AND BLEACH THE HAIR. 

The universal desire to conceal or disguise the first 
unwelcome heralds of age — gray hairs — is so openly ac- 
knowledged that even those who disapprove of the practice 
of using dyes, still admit the longing to be almost a natural 
one. It may be of interest to the ambitious to learn that 
the oldest prescription on record is for a hair dye, and is 
credited to no less a person than Shesch, the mother-in-law 
of the first king of Egypt. Whether Madame Shesch in- 
tended this for her daughter Teta or wished to preserve her 
own appearance no one seems to know, but as the records 
state that the dye was hers we may take it for granted that 
she also made use of it. 

Why the hair turns gray has never been satisfactorily 
decided. Some learned men declare that the blanching 
comes from the disappearance of the pigment cells. Others 
have by examination found the pigment as abundant as 
ever, but the corticle substance so dense that the color does 
not show through. There is no doubt that nervous strain, 
illness and heredity as well as advancing years may be cited 
as influences in this matter, and as in so many instances the 
growth of hair is as abundant as ever, there can therefore 
be no question as to the healthful condition of the scalp. 
Whatever may be the cause there has as yet been discovered 
no cure, so the man or woman who wishes to hide from 
associates has no choice but in the application of a dye. In 
many instances this process is a necessity, as the appearance 
of gray hair would mean dismissal from lucrative positions, 



THE SKIN. 281 

so in considering ways and means it is well to remember 
this fact. 

There is an impression that hair may be colored perma- 
nently, but this is erroneous, for nothing can be dyed but 
the free portion outside of the follicle. Hence the process 
must be repeated from time to time, as the hair near the 
scalp will grow out a natural color, while constant brushing 
and washing will naturally take off part of the stain. The 
requisites for a good dye are not easy to fulfill, for every- 
one demands that the mixture shall be easy to apply, of a 
natural appearance and durable. It is almost impossible to 
find a dye made by an amateur that will fill these require- 
ments, though a few of the manufactured articles will posi- 
tively do so. However, as people love to dabble in the fasci- 
nating art of making strange mixtures, some of the simple 
recipes will follow. 

The vegetable and organic dyes are usually harmless, 
next to these come iron and permanganate of potassium, 
then copper, bismuth and bichromate of potassium ; next 
peroxide of hydrogen, silver and finally lead. The last two, 
of course, are generally recognized as used, though not by 
careful workers. Fresh walnut hulls are much used, and 
this method is really harmless. Henna is much employed to 
stain the hair red, and is so effective that even black hair 
will yield to its influence. By mixing henna with indigo a 
shade of brown is made and by using the indigo after the 
hair has been stained with the henna a very beautiful black 
is possible. 

The process is very simple. First comes a shampoo that 
must remove all the oil from the hair. Then with great 
care single strands are smeared with a paste made by mix- 
ing henna with warm water. The hair is then left accord- 



282 THE SKIN. 

ing to the shade desired. If it is to be red and the hair is 
naturally dark, at least two hours will be necessary. Light 
hair will not take longer than an hour. 

If the color is to be black it may be treated again with 
a paste made in the same manner with indigo powder and 
water. During this process the hair becomes a greenish 
black, later turning into a fine black that is very permanent. 
This process is even said to be beneficial, as far as increas- 
ing the growth of the hair is concerned, and in Turkey the 
manes and tails of horses are dyed red by means of henna. 
If one wishes to use the two ingredients at the same time 
the following formula may be of use, as it is said that by 
the application of this paste the hair may be dyed any shade, 
from light to dark chestnut brown : 

Henna I § 

Indigo 3 g 

Water 4 § 

The hand of an expert is required in this art, and in 
the use of henna it must be remembered that after the first 
dyeing, unless the process is continued the most incredible 
shades appear, green, violet, and a queer copper color, mak- 
ing the appearance so weird that it is impossible to be seen 
in public places, until the color has worn ofif. 

For bleaching the hair the agent most popular is per- 
oxide of hydrogen, and if properly used it may at least be 
said to be harmless, though the color produced is never at 
all natural and the constant touching up required becomes 
most monotonous. The application of the peroxide is most 
simple, and is easily made by the use of a small brush. The 
hair is first washed carefully and the peroxide poured into a 
saucer and the mixture applied. One application produces 



THE SKIN. 283 

a great change and more may be made as necessary. Am- 
monia is added in some instances, but it simply hastens the 
process and cannot do good while it does much harm by 
drying the locks. After the hair is thoroughly bleached, it 
needs constant watching to keep it in presentable condition. 
It must remain as light as it is always, unless it is allowed 
to grow out the natural color again, or unless it is dyed. 
After it is dyed it is impossible to rebleach it without caus- 
ing the most disagreeable complications. 

The use of peroxide to lighten or brighten auburn hair 
is harmless and effective, and it may be used to advantage 
by using an equal quantity of water and applying it to the 
hair after a shampoo, then fanning until it is dry. Muddy 
brown hair may also be brightened in the same way without 
injuring it. 

A good dye for gray hair, or rather one that will re* 
store the natural color is hard to describe. The following 
recipe is said to be extremely effective, and at any rate has 
the advantage of being less harmful than most of the dyes. 

HAIR DYE. 

Southern wood 1^2 lb. 

Olive oil 1 qt. 

Port wine 1 pt. 

Bruise the wood and boil it in the olive oil and strain 
through a cloth. Get fresh quantities of the wood and re- 
peat the operation twice. Then add the port wine and allow 
it to stand several days before using. This is too oily to 
suit most people, so the next recipe will be more popular. 
It is said to have been advocated by Lola Montez. 



284 THE SKIN. 

INSTANTANEOUS HAIR DYE. 

Gallic acid 10 gr. 

Tinct. sesquichloride or iron I § 



Acetic acid i c 



Dissolve the gallic acid in the sesquichloride and add 
the acetic acid, wash the hair and apply the dye when it is 
thoroughly dry. 

In the practical use of a dye it is always advisable to 
procure one from some reliable firm. First, because it is 
then properly made, and second because by means of thous- 
ands of experiments information as to the probable effects 
can thus be obtained. 

No one, not even an expert in the line, can tell posi- 
tively just how a dye will act. For instance, if the hair has 
been bleached and bleached until the tips are a straw yellow 
and the hair near the head a sort of orange shade, the use 
of dye may effect a uniform change and may on the other 
hand only produce a streaked appearance. In this instance 
a second application would be necessary, and here again 
care must be used in order to avoid making the hair too 
dark. 

Then, too, if the hair has been dyed with some other 
preparation, the effect of that particular one used by the 
operator may not have at all a good effect. 

Henna is a harmless dye, it is true, and is invariably 
used for producing the Titian shade ; but, alas ! even this 
vegetable preparation is treacherous, and so my lady of the 
beautiful coloring may wake up any day and find her hair 
streaked with strangely metallic tints varying from a bronze 
to a green, and requiring often a complete dyeing with an- 
other preparation to make the effect anything like presenta- 
ble. 



THE SKIN. 285 

When a subject who has been through the process ap- 
plies for treatment, the wise operator will carefully sham- 
poo the hair with a mixture she knows to be free from any- 
thing but soap and perhaps a little soda. Then she will ex- 
amine the locks to see how many shades she can find, and 
if she is at all doubtful of her work she would better tell the 
subject before commencing the task. 

With a new subject the matter is very simple, for if 
she can be sufficiently impressed with the fact that neither 
the shampoo mixture nor the dye should be varied and that 
the "touching up" process should be repeated at least once 
every four weeks, the chances are that she can keep her 
tresses in really very excellent condition. In this connec- 
tion, however, it must be remembered that the general con- 
dition has much to do with the appearance of the hair, and 
thus when a person is feeling very ill or run down the hair 
never takes the dye as well. 

A new and excellent dye now comes so that all sorts of 
shades can be made by using varying proportions of certain 
mixtures. This dye produces every shade from ash-blonde 
to black, and can be applied very easily. An excellent 
method for producing a very pleasing result with this par- 
ticular mixture, is to dry the dye into the hair by the use 
of the blue light and then follow this by a brushing with 
the electric current, the effect being to produce a very pleas- 
ing lustre, as well as a far more uniform appearance than 
by any other means. 

The hair restorers are really nothing but milder forms 
of hair dyes that may be applied at more frequent intervals. 
They appeal to the class of women who refuse to admit 
they would use a dye, and 'some of the really good hair 
dressers recommend and use the best articles in this class. 



286 THE SKIN. 

Here, too, care must be taken not to procure a mixture 
that will produce a green or a purple effect, but instead one 
that has at least a tendency toward the genuine coloring. 
Restorers may also be used at home, and are therefore most 
popular with the amateurs. 

The woman who desires to obtain the best results 
should get the most reliable preparation, and if possible 
have its action explained to her. If she cannot afford to 
have a competent hair-dresser apply the dye she should fol- 
low the directions to the letter and the results may be very 
pleasing. The shampoo should be made imperative, as it is 
almost impossible to apply any dye and have it act properly 
unless the hair is washed. Another point of importance is 
the kind of shampoo used. One that will not produce com- 
plications by inducing peculiar combinations of chemicals 
is, of course, necessary, and hence it is well always to use 
a mixture, the ingredients of which are known. For that 
reason the shampoo mixture mentioned in a previous chap- 
ter will be the best for general use. 

In using any dye the skin of the face should not be 
touched by the liquid, and the dress should be protected by 
a rubber cloth, while the hands will, of course, be encased 
in rubber gloves. The bottles containing the staining mix- 
tures should be placed on metallic trays or on something 
that cannot be discolored, and the utmost care taken not to 
allow drops of the dye to be spattered on the clothing or 
carpet or anything that may be injured. A little experience 
very speedily shows the average woman that the art of dye- 
ing the hair is one that deserves recognition as a most diffi- 
cult and delicate process, unless there exists that natural 
adaptability that enables one to know intuitively just what 
to do and how to do it. 



THE SKIN. 287 

Finally, although there are given so many precautions 
and warnings, it is not fair to frighten those who feel the 
necessity of using dyes, for there are thousands of people 
who have used them successfully for years without any in- 
jury to either the scalp or hair. The process is a peculiar 
one, and it must be done with the greatest of attention to 
minute detail if it is to be pleasing. Thus performed, the 
results will be as desired. 



CHAPTER XXX. 

HOW TO GROW THIN. 

The woman who carries in addition to the regulation 
number of burdens, that additional one — superfluous flesh — 
has indeed a right to demur. 

For her, life can never be exceedingly comfortable. 
Every effort tires her. Changes in temperature may mean 
actual suffering, and physically she can never be at her best 
while this huge load of fat presses on all of the vital organs, 
shortening her breath, impeding the action of the heart and 
liver, and almost invariably producing some serious com- 
plication. 

The accumulation of flesh usually commences about the 
age of twenty-eight, sometimes a little earlier or later, and 
though frequently found in people inclined to be physically 
indolent, there are exceptions to this rule, for the busy 
housewives are often quite monumental in appearance, 
though leading active lives. In such instances, the food and 
body exercises and baths will be found of the greatest im- 
portance in the process of reducing flesh. 

In respect to this question, as in many others, the 
various authorities have met success in different ways, al- 
though they have all agreed upon the main items. There 
are many phases to be considered in this work before at- 
tempting it, and among the most important are those re- 
garding the danger to the physical well-being by reducing 
so rapidly that the organs may be weakened. This rapid 
process is almost inevitably the result of taking strong 
drugs, and the thoughtful person will hardly care to con- 






THE SKIN. 289 

sider such a course. Bathing, too, may be dangerous if the 
temperature of the bath is high enough to cause increased 
heart action in one whose heart is already weakened, while 
exercising must be undertaken with caution and according 
to set rules, if it is to be of benefit. 

After considering well the phases to be avoided, the 
student should first learn the theory of treatment, then fol- 
low it, and inevitably she will find herself wonderfully im- 
proved in health as well as greatly decreased in weight. 
Even with organic troubles, those who are too heavy may 
manage to become a great deal smaller, while ordinary fat 
people can easily make themselves just what they desire to 
be if they will but persevere in the treatments indicated. 

The cause of obesity is said to be a disturbance of cell 
activity. An over-use of carbo-hydrates tends to increase 
the fat greatly, while alcoholic stimulants or an excessive 
diet of fats and starches also aid in this work. 

The effects of obesity may be seen in the sluggish con- 
dition of the circulation, torpid liver, weakened heart and 
kidneys, and disinclination to exertion, both mental and 
physical. The vital capacity is also much less, and experi- 
ment has shown that for every kilo of weight above the 
average, there is a corresponding decrease of yj c. c. in this 
respect. 

In reducing the flesh the dietetic treatment is all-im- 
portant, and should be carried out accordingly, with due 
regard to the necessity for systematic bathing and exercis- 
ing as well. The best method is naturally that which not 
only reduces but also performs the work without weakening 
the patient. In some instances where there is anemia pres- 
ent with weakness of the heart, the treatment must be an 
invigorating one, and in all methods there should be exer- 



290 THE SKIN. 

cised an effort to avoid measures that are too severe to be 
consistent with health. 

Banting, Ebstein and Oertel are the most quoted au- 
thorities on this subject, and each plan has certain advan- 
tages, but none can be used in all cases. A strict avoidance 
of all the foods of a certain nature is apt also to impair the 
digestive properties, so in general practice it is well to limit 
the diet, but also to use as many articles as possible in strict 
moderation. For instance, the use of sweets may be sup- 
plied by saccharine, the starchy foods may be represented 
by the bread and the peas and beans allowed, thus making 
the diet a mixed one. The following list will be found 
sufficient for the majority of cases: 

BREAKFAST. 

One egg, either poached or boiled, one cup of coffee 
or tea sweetened with saccharine if necessary, toasted bread, 
wheat bread, or graham, 2 ounces fruits, such as oranges, 
grape fruit, or apples. (One only being allowed.) 

Immediately after breakfast a two-mile walk should be 
taken if possible ; if not, the use of the body exercises may 
be tried, paying especial attention to those calling for bend- 
ing, such as I, II, III and IV. This work should consume 
at least fifteen minutes, and following the exercises the body 
should be sponged off with salt water. 

Two hours after time of meal a glass of some mineral 
water should be taken, preferably Vichy one day, Kissingen 
the next. 

NOON MEAL. 

Soup, 3 ounces ; fish, 3 ounces ; roast or boiled beef, 
veal, game or poultry, 6 to 8 ounces ; green vegetables, 2 



THE SKIN. 291 

ounces ; bread, i ounce ; fruit, 3 or 4 ounces ; 4 to 5 ounces 
of any light wine. No liquid aside from this is to be taken 
with the meal. 

Two hours after meal, a glass of mineral water. 

EVENING MEAL. 

Caviar. iy 2 ounces; 1 to 2 soft-boiled eggs; beefsteak, 
fowl or game, 5 ounces; salad, 1 ounce; cheese, 1 dram; 
bread, 1 ounce ; fruit, or water, 5 ounces. 

Before retiring, a complete body bath in warm water 
may be taken and the entire body well scrubbed with soap 
and water, followed by a cold sponge, unless the action of 
the cold water is unendurable. Following the bath the 
breathing exercises may be practiced, especially the last 
four, although all of them will be found excellent. 

In twenty-four hours after the beginning of this pro- 
gram, weight will have been lost, and the decrease should 
be steady until the average weight has been reached, when 
the strict process can, of course, be stopped, and by atten- 
tion to food and exercise the accumulation of flesh dis- 
couraged. 

In connection with exercising and bathing, care must 
be taken to prevent the skin from becoming withered or 
flabby after this loss of flesh, and hence at least once a week 
a thorough massage of the body should be given, while 
massage of the face and neck should be an every day affair. 
For this follow the directions given in chapters on massage. 

In cases of nervous dyspepsia, the use of electricity has 
been most beneficial, and the current may be used over the 
spine, at back of head, and upon the diaphragm, with most 
excellent results. 

Bodily exercise is, of course, of much importance, and 



292 THE SKIN. 

persistence means that where the flesh was, firm muscles 
will exist, and the creases and crevices so dangerous to 
beauty will not appear. For those who feel that the de- 
crease in flesh endangers the appearance, the following lo- 
tion may be used with extremely good effect. It is best ap- 
plied after the evening bath. 

Rose water 8 § 

Tinct. of benzoin I 3 

Milk of almonds 25 

Sulphate of aluminum J/2 § 

Dissolve thoroughly and filter until clear. Keep in a 
dark bottle in a cool place and apply with a sponge daily. 

The cold sponge is especially recommended after the 
ordinary warm bath, and even the most delicate may in 
time accustom themselves to this by commencing with the 
use of tepid water, and gradually adding the colder until 
the desired temperature has been reached. Salt may be 
added to the water with very good effect or the towels may 
be dipped in a saturated solution of salt, allowed to dry, 
and then used to scrub the body with. The effect of this 
friction is most beneficial. 

The following table of weights is the one most gener- 
ally accepted, and any great deviation from this either way 
should be corrected as being inconsistent with health. The 
normal woman should not varv more than two or three 
pounds from these figures. If she does, -her only remedy 
is a strict observance of rules given for the correction of 
this condition : 

5 feet 1 inch 120 to 123 pounds. 
5 feet 2 inches 126 to 128 pounds. 
5 feet 3 inches 133 to 135 pounds. 



THE SKIN. 



293 



5 feet 
5 feet 
5 feet 
5 feet 
5 feet 
5 feet 
5 feet 

5 feet 

6 feet 



4 

5 
6 

7 
8 

9 
io 

ii 



inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 



136 to 
142 to 
145 to 
149 to 

155 to 
162 to 
169 to 
174 to 
178 to 



138 pounds. 
144 pounds. 
147 pounds. 
151 pounds. 
157 pounds. 
165 pounds. 
171 pounds. 
176 pounds. 
182 pounds. 



CHAPTER XXXI. 



HOW TO BECOME PLUMP. 

The thin woman may glory in being willowy in her 
youth, but as in the early thirties she sees the deep creases 
and the tiny lines that appear with the evident determina- 
tion of acquiring a permanent position, there also comes the 
desire to acquire a few pounds of flesh to assist in covering 
the too apparent bones. 

All wasting diseases will produce this excessive lean- 
ness, but if there is no trouble of this kind to contend with, 
and no inherited tendency, much can be done toward cor- 
recting this condition. It is peculiar, to say the least, in 
studying the best measures for putting on flesh, to find how 
many of the rules for taking it off must be observed. 

Exercise in the open air is as important for one as for 
the other. The body exercises for development are always 
to be used, while those in breathing, found the very best 
basis for this treatment. Exercises especially beneficial in 
this respect are those in which the abdomen and chest are 
made to expand against pressure. Of course, in perform- 
ing any of these movements care will be observed to carry 
none of them to excess, and to avoid becoming over-ex- 
hausted at any time. 

Bathing may be used almost as extensively as in the 
case of superfluous flesh, with the difference that after the 
use of a very warm bath much time should be employed 
upon the massage of the body, using as much oil or skin 
food, as the pores will absorb. After a bath of this kind 
much rest should be taken and a light lunch^ eaten before 



THE SKIN. 295 

dressing. For instance, a glass of milk and a roll or two, 
or poached eggs and cocoa or a glass of ale will be found 
excellent foods for this condition. 

The bath most beneficial for this purpose is that ob- 
tained by pouring into the tub two quarts of bran, and 
allowing it to remain in the warm water for twenty minutes 
before entering. This bran may be used for rubbing the 
body by mixing it with castile soap, and after a vigorous 
friction, the body should remain in the water for at least 
twenty minutes, finishing with a thorough massage of the 
entire body. 

Each day after luncheon, a rest should be taken, and 
upon rising if there is any appetite for food, a cup of choco- 
late or glass of milk or tea with toast may be taken. Much 
sleep is extremely beneficial, as the majority of thin people 
are exceedingly active, and do not get the rest they require. 

Many women have found the use of porter or ale to be 
most beneficial, but as the use of these stimulants is often 
attended by a desire for something of the kind constantly, 
it is well to use remedies less apt to be attended with bad 
after-effects. Any sour wine such as claret or Rhine, or 
the use of many acid fruits, such as lemons, oranges, grape 
fruit or limes should be avoided. 

When the one who is thin is also exceedingly nervous, 
sufficient rest must be made a positive law, with the use of 
electricity if her nerves seem entirely beyond control and a 
tonic of hypophosphites to assist in toning up the system. 
The following diet will be found the best in most conditions : 

BREAKFAST. 

Cup of tea or coffee with as much cream and milk as 
can possibly be employed. Any of the cereal foods, berries 



296 THE SKIN. 

or fruit with sugar, baked potatoes and a lamb chop. 

This menu will seem rather elaborate to many, as the 
"no breakfast" fad is widespread, and both corpulent and 
emaciated women have accustomed themselves to either 
nothing at all in the morning or one cup of coffee with per- 
haps a slice of unbuttered toast. All thin people should 
make an effort to make this morning meal a substantial one. 
as it does more to keep up the strength and prevent undue 
strain than any other meal in the day. 

In the middle of the morning, after exercise in the open 
air, it is well again to take a light lunch, and this may con- 
sist of toasted crackers with a glass of milk or eggnog. Af- 
ter this lunch, of course, the ordinary occupations may be 
pursued as usual, and at noon the following menu will be 
found the best : 

LUNCHEON. 

Potatoes, any of the green vegetables, omelette, bread 
and butter and fruits, cold meats and milk, chocolate, or 
cocoa, or milk. 

After lunch a rest of at least one-half hour should be 
taken, or if possible a long nap, followed by a lunch during 
the middle of the afternoon. 

DINNER. 

Any of the nourishing soups, fish of any kind, meats, 
such as rare roast beef, chicken, sweets and fruits. Beer, 
porter, Burgundy or a little sweet champagne may be taken. 

After dinner a little light exercise should follow, and 
especial care should be used to avoid making the hours for 
retiring late. The warm bath, as described, can well be 
taken at night with the careful massage following and a 
glass of milk may be taken just before retiring for the night. 



THE SKIN. 297 

The diet in all cases will be found to be most important, 
and excesses should be guarded against. Although sweets 
are fattening, too many are apt to cause emaciation, just as 
surely as the average use encourages corpulency. In nearly 
every case of extreme thinness, the patient is found to have 
a peculiar appetite. Rarely is there observed a healthful 
longing for food best suited to her condition. The desire 
may be for sweets or for sour fruits or pickles, but it is in- 
variably for something that will injure the digestion. 

Tendencies of this kind may be overcome by persistent 
effort and determination. If necessary, a good tonic may 
be employed to aid in the work. In any event the deter- 
mination to acquire a healthy appetite may be met with suc- 
cess, if sufficient interest is shown in the matter. 

The matter of nerves must be especially considered in 
these instances, and if the subject is extremely irritable, 
allowing every small matter to disturb her, she must simply 
call a halt in her round of duties by weeding out every un- 
necessary task, and spending sufficient time to thoroughly 
cultivate that state of calm and repose necessary to peace of 
mind. The rest cure may be taken in the heart of the city 
as well as in the quiet of the country, for wherever there 
is sufficient will, there is bound to be success, and this may 
be easily proved by any one who will make the effort, 






CHAPTER XXXII. 

PHYSIOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENT. 

It is not alone for the benefit obtained in acquiring a 
graceful carriage, or in the symmetrical development of the 
body, that the proper system of exercising is advocated ; but 
chiefly on account of the positive increase in both mental 
and physical capacity for sustained effort, obtained by those 
who have the will to adopt, and the perseverance to prac- 
tice the movements best suited to their needs. 

It cannot be denied that much harm has been done by 
the use of exercises too violent for those with weakened 
constitutions or any organic trouble of the heart. However, 
in teaching of the wonderful results to be obtained from 
this work, full emphasis has been placed upon the absolute 
necessity for caution, and in addition, only the exercises 
that may be attempted with perfect safety have been selected 
for lessons. 

Exercise should not be relegated to young, but should 
be encouraged in the middle-aged and old people as a means 
of preventing fatty changes, and the process of degenera- 
tion peculiar to age, in which the blood vessels wither away 
and thus cause excessive tissue waste. 

These processes may in a great measure be prevented 
by persistent and systematic effort to keep all of the muscles 
in working condition, as well as in maintaining a good cir- 
culation. In this manner the capillaries and blood vessels 
instead of contracting, may be kept at their greatest capac- 
ity, thus insuring sufficient activity. 

The anecdote of the man who commenced lifting the 



THE SKIN. 299 

calf from the time it was two days old, and thus proved 
that when it became a huge animal he could still perform 
the same feat because his muscles had been trained and 
gradually adapted to the increased effort, is a very good 
illustration of what daily work will do for everyone. If 
it could be kept up, or rather if it were continued as it 
should be, and proper vigor could be maintained, the man 
of sixty would be far more supple than the boy of sixteen. 

One of the most prominent educators in this country, 
who was opposed to anything in the way of violent exer- 
cise, or indeed, even to mild efforts, or anything else, that 
would take him away from his books, has recently been 
made the object of some very curious experiments in order 
to prove that a man of fifty-five could be trained in the 
greater part of the work done by the college athletes. 
The educator had declared so vigorously that he could 
never be improved by this method of development that 
when a tempting wager was made he finally agreed to 
undergo training for six months, adopting the diet as well 
as the work lined out by the advocate of physiological de- 
velopment. 

At the end of three months the stiff lines and awkward 
gait had been supplanted by an erect carriage and sem- 
blance of ease. Six months found him a different man, not 
only physically, but also in regard to capacity for mental 
effort, a matter easily proved, as this new work did not 
interfere with the ordinary duties of life. At this time 
arrangements were made to prolong the training for one 
year, and then to his delight he found he could perform 
the following exercises with ease : 

He could stand on a block eight inches high, and, reach- 
ing* down, lay his hands on the floor, palms downward. He 



300 THE SKIN. 

could lay his hands flat back on his wrists and easily slip 
his toes in his mouth. In addition to these proofs of sup- 
pleness he could hold a cane horizontally, clasping each 
hand about it behind his back and then raise it above his 
head. A trial at raising the hands alone will soon convince 
any one how difficult it must have been to acquire the ability 
to do this last exercise. 

Of course, the results of this work were quite suffi- 
cient to make an ardent enthusiast of the educator, and 
as a consequence the athletic portion of the college boys 
soon found an ally who assisted them whenever possible. 

Instances without number may be cited, showing that 
those who are in the habit of exercising habitually will not 
only live longer and happier lives, but will also enjoy com- 
parative immunity from sickness and attacks of melan- 
cholia and will be decidedly prone to the comfortable con- 
dition in which neither the extreme of corpulency nor emaci- 
ation will be experienced. Twenty minutes spent in this 
work each day will do wonders for any one who is earnest 
in the work within a year's time. The increased interest 
among women is already showing wonderful results in the 
finely proportioned types styled the American girl. 

Especial emphasis should be placed upon the benefits 
to be derived from this work by those who have passed 
middle age. There has been a feeling that all efiforts of 
this kind were unavailing excepting during the earlier years, 
and as a consequence the interest has not been as great as 
it should be. No one is ever too old to be benefited to 
some degree by work carried on properly, and every person 
should be convinced of this fact. There are too many in- 
stances of activity among people who have passed the al- 
lotted threescore and ten to make one feel that there is 
anything like an age limit in these enlightened days. 



THE SKIN. 301 

Full breathing stands at the head of every list as most 
important as well as absolutely necessary to perfect health. 
The room one sits in may be filled with fresh air, but 
unless it is taken into the body correctly by an effort that 
shall not only fill the lungs, but also exercise the entire 
abdominal region, breathing is not properly done. In all 
labored respiration, the abdominal muscles act by dimin- 
ishing the abdominal cavity, and pushing the contents up 
against the diaphragm. The contraction of the diaphragm, 
by increasing the intra-abdominal pressure, favors the 
venous blood current in the abdomen toward the venacava 
inferior. Thus the act of breathing correctly and deeply 
is seen to have an immense influence in actively exercising 
the organs so vitally important if health is to be maintained. 

Breathing should be done through the nostrils, because, 
as the current of air passes through the pharyngo-nasal cav- 
ity, it is rendered warm and moist, and the irritation of the 
mucous membranes of the air passages by the cold air is 
prevented. Small particles of soot or other foreign sub- 
stances adhere to and become embedded in the mucous 
covering and are carried outward by the peculiar mechan- 
ism of the respiratory passages, and finally disagreeable 
odor and impurities of the air are detected by the sense of 

smell. 

Oxygen, the great purifier, is present in large quanti- 
ties in fresh air, combined with nitrogen and carbonic 
acid gas — CO 2 . Taken into the body by the means of 
respiration it revivifies the blood, assists in the construc- 
tion of the new tissue as well as in the breaking down of 
old. Air once breathed has been deprived of a great part 
of its oxygen, and possesses a marked increase in CO 2 . 
Hence, in order to take in as much of the life-giving oxy- 



302 THE SKIN. 

gen and as little of the inert CO 2 as possible, the same 
air should be breathed but once, thus making perfect ven- 
tilation a necessity in all apartments. 

Fresh air is as necessary for the most robust as for the 
weakly, and the allowance of space necessary to secure 
sufficient air for each individual should always be con- 
sidered in respect to the healthful condition of rooms. Or- 
dinarily 800 cubic feet should be allowed for a healthy 
person, and 1,000 cubic feet for one who is sick. In addi- 
tion to the allowance of air, care must be taken to insure 
the free admission of sunlight, in order to get rid of the 
organic matter that is constantly given off. A very good 
illustration of the fact that this organic matter given off 
by means of the breath is filled with numerous bacteria 
may be tried by breathing into a jar of distilled water, and 
then placing the vessel aside. In a very short time the 
water becomes fetid. Hence it will be seen that to insure 
perfect ventilation, as well as the best condition of an 
apartment, both sun and air are required. 

In learning to breathe correctly the exercises should be 
taken in a room previously well ventilated or by an open 
window. Any muscular effort causes an increase in the 
CO 2 given out, so much more care must be exerted to keep 
the pure air in sufficient quantity to make the exercises 
beneficial. The good effects of correct breathing are re- 
markable. Chests expand, stomachs recede, cheeks show 
more color and eyes are brighter, while the general health 
is, of course, far better. The process of breathing should 
not be spasmodic, but natural, with a certain rhythm. Those 
who puff out their cheeks and go through numerous other 
facial contortions, such as gasping and gurgling, are harm- 
ing themselves in more ways than one, and are doing 



THE SKIN. 303 

absolutely no good. Care must be taken to learn the 
proper method, and then the results will be all that can be 
desired. 

Rapid, violent breathing is to be avoided, as it may 
produce serious injury to the pulmonary tissues. Shallow 
breathing is of no benefit whatever, and in this very im- 
portant work every exercise should be performed with the 
mind absolutely concentrated upon the subject, as well as 
with a steady determination to go at the work with the 
intention of producing the effect desired. The time given 
to breathing may be increased from day to day. If exer- 
cises seem too difficult for the first trial they may be made 
easier until finally they can be accomplished with the ut- 
most ease. 

The busy woman, who feels every moment is precious, 
if properly dressed, may practice deep breathing as she 
walks to her daily occupation. With shoulders thrown 
back, head erect and hands at her side she may inhale 
slowly while she counts five, exhale while counting seven, 
and so on until the utmost capacity for the lungs has finally 
been reached. This, of course, means that her clothing 
must be worn so comfortably that the abdominal muscles 
may be used with every breath. 

If the great distance precludes an attempt at walking, 
the breathing exercises may be practiced upon retiring at 
night, and in fact some of the most excellent are performed 
while in a recumbent position. During the day, if the head 
feels heavy and there is a sensation of weariness that makes 
the work drag, five minutes of deep breathing by the 
open window will send the blood bounding through the 
veins and so clear the brain that the capacity for accom- 
plishing is almost doubled. 



304 THE SKIN. 

So enthusiastic are the advocates of correct breathing 
that it is said one of the foremost actresses attributes a 
great part of her success to her knowledge of this art. If 
tried beyond her strength by some strongly emotional art, 
or if feeling unequal to the work before her, she imme- 
diately gets into the open air for long enough to practice 
inhaling and exhaling ten deep breaths, and returns feel- 
ing refreshed and invigorated. 

It is frequently impossible for any person of ordinary 
environment to go through the long and vigorous courses 
prescribed by those who make a specialty of this work. 
Hence in giving the following exercises care has been taken 
to select those that will sufficiently exercise the vital organs 
as well as the muscles and yet will not be in any w r ay in- 
jurious. Many excellent exercises will need to be omitted, 
simply because it is impossible for any one to do them with- 
out instruction. However, if these that are given are prac- 
ticed as thev should be there will be found little need of 
anything else. Every woman, no matter what her occupa- 
tion, needs to learn and practice deep breathing. The fol- 
lowing examples will suffice as illustrations of the most 
important portions of this work. 

Exercise I. Assume a recumbent position by lying flat 
on the couch or floor and relaxing all of the muscles. Then 
inhale slowly through the nostrils, and as deliberately ex- 
hale. Place the hands lightly on the abdomen, and if the 
breath is taken correctly the abdominal muscles will become 
inflated first, then the chest. In order to make the work 
rhythmical commence by mentally counting five while 
inhaling, and seven while exhaling. Repeat five times, 
gradually adding to the count as the strength increases, 
and always being careful to perform the work methodically. 



THE SKIN 



305 



This exercise is excellent for practice in inflating the lungs 
properly and may be practiced in bed before rising, thus 
commencing the day well. 

Exercise II. Still in a recumbent position exhale fully, 
pressing lightly with both hands upon the abdomen. Inhale 
fully, resisting pressure, which should increase with each 





Fig. I. Fig. II. 

time the exercise is performed. These two exercises will 
make the diaphragm strong and elastic, and the entire 
lung tissue will be expanded. Repeat this five times at first, 
increasing gradually. 

Exercise III. Assume military position. In order to 
ascertain if this is properly done, stand with the body 
touching the wall, and if the back of head, shoulders, but- 
tocks and heels touch, the attitude is correct. Then place 






306 



THE SKIN. 



hands on side close to armpits, as illustrated in Figure I, 
and resist expansion of side muscles. Exhale with pres- 
sure still continued, and during the exercise proceed with 
mental counting, as directed in first exercise. Perform 
five times. 





Fig. III. 



Fig. IV. 



Exercise IV. Assume attidude as in Figure I, placing 
hands on upper part of chest and again inhale against the 
pressure of the hands, exhale without the pressure. Con- 
tinue the counting as before and use the same number of 
times. 

Exercise V. Assume attitude seen in Figure II, and 
inhale while raising the hands straight out and up, exhale 



THE SKIN 



307 



while coming back to original position. Continue counting 
as before. This work is excellent for raising the chest 
walls and for lengthening the waist. 

Exercise VI. Assume the attitude of Figure II, and 
exhale while dropping the hands at the side, inhale while 








Fig. V, 



Fig. VI. 



bringing them up to original position. Continue counting 
as before, and after the first or second trial exert a little 
pressure, bringing them up against this and relaxing as the 
arms go down. 

Exercise VII. Assume position of Figure III, throw- 
ing the head back as far as possible, and interlacing the 
fingers back of the head. Fill the lungs to the utmost ca- 



308 



THE SKIN 



pacity, hold the breath, and then resist, and in spite of 
resistance pull the head downward, at the same time ex- 
haling. This is rather violent and cannot be done success- 
fully at first. In beginning, two trials will be sufficient, 
gradually arriving at five and never performing any more 
than this number of exercises at any lesson. 

Exercise VIII. Assume position shown in Figure I, 
with hands at side, and exhale all of the air from the lungs. 
While holding them empty draw in the abdomen as much 
as possible, and then extend it forward to its greatest ca- 
pacity. Do this as rapidly and as often as control over 
respiration will permit. It will strengthen the stomach and 
will reduce superfluous flesh over abdomen as no other 
method can. This ends the exercises in breathing, and as 
these are positively the best to be obtained the student who 

learns them correctly and prac- 
tices them methodically will be 
positive of improvement. 
In practicing breathing, a feel- 
ing of dizziness is often experi- 
enced, and in some instances the 
action of the heart is greatly in- 
creased. In such an event, do not 
attempt to work until every un- 
comfortable sensation has depart- 
ed, for it will not benefit. The 
average rate of inspiration is from 
ten to twelve seconds, with fifteen 
for exhalation. It is not neces- 
sary for the average person to de- 
velop too greatly, so when this point is reached it may be 
as w r ell to continue the work at about this rate. After a 




Fig. VII. 



THE SKIN. 309 

week or so of systematic effort the exercises may be per- 
formed with ease in a very short time, and the vital 
capacity will be found surprisingly increased. 






CHAPTER XXXIII. 

BODY MOVEMENTS. 

Fully one-half the ailments that perturb the feminine 
portion of the world could be avoided if women would but 
be persuaded to exercise properly. If, in addition, they 
would eat wisely, bathe systematically and rest when neces- 
sary the number of invalids would indeed be few. 

Happily for the advocates of "healthful living," the 
proper system of exercising is usually a means to an end, 
and after the proper system of exercising has been taught, 
the pupils, in delight at the improvement in appearance and 
in capacity for work as well as enjoyment, are usually only 
too anxious to proceed in the path outlined. Thus the evo- 
lution of the best system may be insured. 

The world of today is an exceedingly busy one. Nearly 
everyone is engrossed in a mad endeavor to accomplish 
some purpose, and this object usually requires every spare 
moment of time. The lined brows, nervous, twitching eyes 
and pallid cheeks of these victims of modern progress point 
only too plainly to the price paid for the accomplishment. 
This condition is not limited to any particular class, for in 
every grade of society the number of overworked are to be 
found. The busy housewife, nervous society woman, tired 
clerk and overworked teacher acknowledge the need for rest 
and change, but fail to find leisure in which to make an 
effort toward improvement. As a consequence the number 
of interested workers in the realm of physiological develop- 
ment is correspondingly small, and some plan must be de- 
vised by which the work may be made possible for all 
classes. 



THE SKIN. 311 

Tn the preceding exercises the attention has been paid 
more particularly to the development of the lungs, improve- 
ment of circulation and exercise of abdominal muscles with 
a view to strengthening the diaphragm. These that follow 
will be particularly adapted to strengthening the muscles 
of the arms, legs and back, and will be excellent for produc- 
ing a symmetrical development of the figure and a reduc- 
tion of superfluous flesh. 

Exercise I. Assume position of Figure II, and then 
bend from side to side, as illustrated in Figure IV, keeping 
the knees rigid and heels together. This exercise should 
be performed at least twenty times with arms outstretched 
as seen in illustration. Reduction of the hips will follow 
the use of this exercise, and also a lengthening of the waist 
line. 

Exercise 11. Assume military position, as illustrated 
in Figure I. Then stand with the feet apart and the toe of 
one slightly raised as the hand on one side slips down 
toward the knee while the other is kept under the arm. 
Alternate this work first on one side, then on the other, as 
the one hand comes up, the other must slide down, until 
this has been done twenty times. This is called "lifting the 
liver" and is excellent for curing constipation. 

Exercise TIL Assume positions shown in line draw- 
ings, A, P>, C. First the military attitude as in A, placing 
hands on back of chair. Then raise on tiptoes, as shown 
in Figure B, and descend into a sitting position, as shown 
in Figure C. In this work, ascend on the toes as high as 



ssible and descend as near the ground as can be, all of 



po 

the time keeping the body erect and steady. A very good 
way to perform this work is by placing a book or some 
other object on the head and attempt to do the work in this 



312 



THE SKIN. 



manner. In this way the erect position will be maintained. 
Repeat until the muscles ache. 

Exercise IV. Assume position of Figure D, raising the 
arms high over the head, bringing them forward' in a sweep 
and touching the toes without bending the knees, as -in Fig- 
ure E. This will seem very difficult at first, but after a 
short time can be easily done. 

Exercise V. Repeat same exercise, but twist the body 
to the side, and attempt to touch the heels instead of the 





Fig. A. Fig. B. 



Fig. C. 



Fig. D. 



Fig. E, 



toes. Repeat, first on the left side and then on the right. 
This is extremely difficult and may require too much exer- 
tion from some beginners, so should be attempted once at 
the first lesson and never done more than three times in 
succession. 

Exercise VI. While in bending position illustrated in 
Figure E, bring the hands against pressure, out at each 
side, and up as far as possible. Do this at least five times. 

Exercise VII. Raise the hands above the head, as in 
Figure D. Turn the arms until the palms meet over the 
head, lower them with palms still upward, until on a level 



THE SKIN. 313 

with the shoulders, and then drop them to sides. This ex- 
ercise rests the heart and is best performed during the 
course of exercises rather than at the beginning or end. 

Exercise VIII. Take attitude shown in Figure V, and 
bend with hands held above the head as far backward and 
as far forward as possible without changing position of 
hands or allowing the knees to bend. In this exercise first 
one foot is advanced and then the other, and the work is 
continued until at least twenty trials have been made. 

Exercise IX. This is excellent to make the body supple 
and should be practiced diligently. Figure VI illustrates 
nicely just the position to be maintained. The weight rests 
on one foot and the toe of the other just misses the 
ground, the limb being held stretched out as far as possible, 
while a rotary motion of the entire body is practiced until 
a semi-circle is described. 

This work may be done first with one foot extended, 
then the other, and in time will be found very easy. 

Exercise X. In this, the practice of balance is made 
possible by taking pose seen in Figure VII and by attempt- 
ing to touch the floor with a handkerchief in the hand on 
same side that knee is kept rigid, while the other hand is 
held in such a manner that balance may be maintained. 

This will need to be attempted many times before suc- 
cess crowns one's efforts. 

Of course there are countless changes on the exercises 
enumerated, as well as many that are entirely different. It 
would require so much time to perform all of them that not 
one person in a hundred would even dream of attempting 
them, hence just those most practical have been given. 

In beginning, perhaps twenty minutes day and night 
will be required in order to perform the work well. After 



314 



THE SKIN. 



some little practice, twenty or twenty-five minutes will be 
quite sufficient for this purpose. It must be remembered 
in this work that symmetrical development means the equal 
development of all parts of the body. Hence in exercising 
there can be no favoritism shown, but, instead; the work 
must be done as directed. In this way every muscle will 
be sufficiently employed. The saying that "it is not what 
we know, but what we do with what we know that makes 
success in business, love or health," is fully exemplified in 
this work of developing the body. Perseverance is a most 
necessary part of any attempt of this kind and will make 
the results exactly what they are desired to be. 

N. B. — It has been the aim of the author to make this 
book a practical system of instruction for all women who 
wish to use the newest and most approved methods. Any 
points that are not clearly understood will be cheerfully 
explained to all who will enclose a stamped and addressed 
envelope, sending to 

EMILY LLOYD, 

Western Methodist Book Concern Bldg., 

57 Washington Street, Chicago, III. 



INDEX 



PAGE 

Abnormally Sensitive Skin 92 

Advisability of Using Discretion in Work 18 

After-Treatment by Electricity 175 

Almonda Creme 26 

Alopecia 273 

Anecdote of Educator 300 

Ancient Customs in Regard to Ointments 21 

Appearance of Normal Skin 15 

Appearance of Pure Oils 25 

Appliances that Cause Wrinkles 33 

Approaching Age 16 

Antiquity of Powder 1 10 

Arms, How to Improve 218 

Art of Bathing. 115 

Astringent, How Used 63 

Attainment of Perfect Development 42 

Bad Breath 233 

Band, Head 167 

Bandaging Feet for Removing Inflammation 238 

Bandaging Inflamed Joint 243 

Banishing the Crows' Feet 33 

Bath, Bran 118 

Bath, Electric 118 

Bath, Faradic 119 

Battery for Office Work 148 

Battery, Fourteen Dry Cell 147 

Battery Fluid 153 

Battery, Ideal 152 

Battery, Mcintosh, Dry Cell 186 

Battery, Section of Faradic 155 

Battery, Section of Galvanic 153 

Battery, Simplest Form 139 

Bathing, The Art of 116 

Bath, Liquid 117 

Bathing Powder - 112 

Bath, Sulphur 118 

Benefit to be Found by Dieting 289 

Benefit Derived from Electric Needle 73 

Best Needle to Use 170 

Blackheads ' 64 



316 INDEX. 

PAGE 

Blackheads, How to Cure 78 

Blackheads, How to Remove 66 

Blackheads, How to Treat 67 

Blackheads, Special Massage for 65 

Bland Ointment 271 

Blanching the Skin 188 

Bleaching Hair on Arms 190 

Bleaching the Hair 280 

Bleaching Liquid for Moth Patch 83 

Bleaching Lotion for Nails 216 

Bleaches, Powerful Cause Cauterization 16 

Bleaching the Skin 190 

Body Movements 310 

Bran Bath 118 

Bran Shampoo 250 

Brush, Proper for Teeth 234 

Breath, Bad 233 

Breathing, Full 300 

Breathing through Nostrils 302 

Buffer, Use of 215 

Busy Women May Exercise 303 

Care of the Feet 236 

Care of the Hands 203 

Care of the Hair 245 

Care of Neck 222 

Care of Skin 21 

Cause of Age Lines 34 

Causes of Obesity 289 

Cauterization, Produced by Powerful B'eaches 16 

Caution in Using Proper Pole 184 

Certainty of Improvement in Using Proper Treatment 63 

Chilblains 244 

Chin, Treated by Rotary Motion 60 

Cheeks, How Massaged 59 

Chloasma 83 

Cleansing and Opening Pimples 69 

Cleansing of Scalp 247 

Cleansing Mixture for Sensitive Skin 93 

Clipping Hair 263 

Cold Water for Puffiness of Eyes 59 

Combined Office Plate 152 

Comedone Extractor 67 

Comedone Extractor, Use of 68 

Constipation 77 

Contents, Table of 9 

Correct Breathing 303 



INDEX. 317 

PAGE 

Corn Cure 239 

Coarse Pores t . . . 94 

Cosmetic Defects of Mouth 229 

Cosmetics, Harmful 32 

Convenient Bath Apparatus 119 

Cataphoresis 193 

Common Diseases of the Scalp 273 

Cost of Recharging Battery 148 

Creme, Almonda 26 

Cremes Afford Protection 20 

Cremes Are Necessary 20 

Creme Celeste 26 

Creme, Cucumber 29 

Cremes Do Not Cause Growth of Hair 22 

Creme, Delight of Harem 27 

Creme for Eruptions 29 

Creme, Traveler's Comfort 109 

Creme, Strawberry 28 

Cucumber Creme 29 

Cup, Sterilized 47 

Cure of Blackheads, Pimples, etc 74 

Cure of Corns 242 

Current, Electric, Direction of 139 

Current, Electric, How Produced 139 

Current, Galvanic, How to Detect 154 

Customs of Ancients in Regard to Ointments 21 

Dandruff, Removal of 266 

Dandruff, Simple Shampoo for 270 

Dandruff, Tonic for 270 

Dandruff or Scurf, Treatment of 264 

Dandruff, Varieties of 265 

Danger of Producing Scars in Removing Hair 161 

Dedication 2 

Defects, Cosmetic of Mouth 229 

Delight of Harem, Creme 27 

Depilatory Forceps 166 

Depilatory, for Use on Arms 219 

Deep Lines on Neck 60 

Deep Massage for Pimples 69 

Dentifrice, Powdered 232 

Dentifrice, Liquid 232 

Development, Physiological 299 

Diet Advised for Oily Skins , 94 

Diet and Directions for Home Work on Blackheads 76 

Diet List for Increasing Flesh 296 



318 INDEX. 

PAGE 

Diet List for Reducing Flesh 290 

Difficulty in Massaging Mouth 60 

Direction of Electric Current 139 

Directions for Home Work on Blackheads 74 

Discretion Advisable in Caring for Skin 18 

Disc, Needle, for Removing Naevi 185 

Discolorations of Skin 189 

Disguise for Red Hands 211 

Dry and Flabby Skins 92 

Dry Cell Batteries 11 

Dry Cell Combined Battery 147 

Dry Cell, Mcintosh Battery 186 

Dusting Powder for Moist Hands 208 

Dye, Instantaneous Hair 293 

Dyeing the Hair 280 

Dyes, Vegetable and Organic _ 281 

Ether 138 

Effect of Advancing Years on Hair Growth 22 

Egg Shampoo 251 

Electricity, as an After-Treatment 63 

Electric Current, How Produced ; 139 

Electric Disturbance 138 

Electric Battery, Ideal 152 

Electric Battery, Simplest Form 139 

Electric Bath 118 

Electric Brush for Treating Scalp 261 

Electric Current, Direction of 139 

Electricity, Use of 137 

Electrolysis, Outfit for 186 

Electrolysis for Removing Hair 165 

Electrolysis for Removing Moles 179 

Emphasis on Gentle Treatment 35 

Enlarging the Breasts 226 

Erasing the Long Lines 43 

Exercise for Busy Women 303 

Exercises to be Practiced 304 

Experiment in Producing Electricity 138 

Experienced Worker Has Knowledge 21 

External Applications Necessary 17 

Electricity in Massage 200 

Face, Prepared for Massage 41 

Failure to Obtain Current from Battery 156 

Faradic Bath 119 

Faradic Battery, Section of 155 



INDEX. 319 

PAGE 

Faradic Massage 196 

Feet Bandaged, for Inflammation 238 

Feet, Care of 236 

Feet, Massage of 237 

Feet, Perspiration of 244 

File, Use of 205 

Finding Hair Follicle 167 

First Sign of Approaching Age 16 

Flabby Skins 92 

Fluid, for Battery 153 

Forceps, Depilatory 166 

For Painful Joints 239 

Foot Tonic 238 

Freckles, Tan and Sunburn 104 

Fresh Air 303 

Full Breathing 300 

Galvanic Battery, Section of 153 

Galvanic Current, Use of 138 

Galvanic Current, How to Detect 138 

Galvanic Current, Use for Bleaching 138 

Galvanic Current, Used for Removing Superfluous Hair 138 

Galvanic Current for Removing Moles 142 

Galvanic Current, Strength Used 144 

Galvanic and Faradic Plate 152 

Galvanic Plate 151 

Gentle Treatment in Facial Work Emphasized 35 

Green Soap, Tincture of 75 

Growth of Hair as Years Advance 22 

Growth of Hair not Caused by Cremes 22 

Gums, Treatment of 230 

Habit Lines 32 

Hair Brush Electrode 261 

Hair, Care of the 245 

Hair Clipping 263 

Hair Dye 283 

Hair, How to Dye and Bleach 280 

Hair and Scalp, Treatment of 255 

Hair, Vermin in 253 

Hands, Care of the 203 

Harmful Cosmetics 32 

Hard Rubber Needle Holder 164 

Head Band and Magnifying Glass 167 

Henna Paste 282 

Healthy Hue of Skin s 16 

Heart, Resting the 312 



320 INDEX. 

PAGE 

Hints on Bathing 116 

Hips, How to Reduce 311 

Hollow Spaces, on Neck 221 

Home Work in Cure of Blackheads 75 

How Electric Current May be Produced 139 

How to Become Plump - 294 

How to Cure Blackheads 78 

How to Dye and Bleach the Hair 280 

How to Furnish the Treatment Rooms 129 

How to Grow Thin 288 

How to Improve the Arms 218 

How to Improve the Neck and Bust 218 

How to Improve the Shoulders 218 

How to Massage 50 

How to Proceed in Blackhead Work 64 

How to Prepare the Face for Massage 44 

How to Remove Blackheads 67 

How to Remove Discolorations 189 

How to Remove Moles 176 

How to Remove Superfluous Hair 165 

How to Select a Battery 146 

How to Sterilize 123 

How to Tell a Good Creme 21 

How to Use the Baths 77 

How to Use the Water Massage 40 

Hypodermic Syringe, How to Use 70 

Ideal Battery 152 

111 Health and Wrinkles 33 

Illustrations, List of 14 

Important Features of Outfit for Electrolysis 186 

Importance of Using Zinc Ointment 175 

Improvement Certain in Facial Treatments 63 

Incrustations on Teeth 231 

Inflammation of Joint 241 

Ingrown Nails 242 

Irritation Hastens Flaking of Skin 16 

Instantaneous Hair Dye 285 

Instruments, Sterilizing of 123 

Inflammation. Removed by Bandaging Feet 238 

Introduction 3 

Irrigating Stand 133 

Jelly, Rose 206 

Jelly, Violet 98 

Joint, Massage of 240 



INDEX. 321 

PAGE 

Kneading Motion of the Chin 57 

Knowledge, Valuable, of Experienced Worker 21 

Lanugo, or Wool Hair 22 

Lines of Age 34 

Lines About the Eyes 46 

Lines Upon the Face 50 

Lines, Caused by Weak Eyes 34 

List, Diet, for Increasing Flesh 296 

List, Diet, for Reducing Flesh 290 

Lines on Forehead 56 

Liquid Bath 102 

Liver Patches 82 

Liquid Powder 114 

Lotion for Rough Skin 220 

Magnifying Glass 166 

Magnifying Glass on Head Band 167 

Mallet Treatment 60 

Manicure Outfit Necessary 212 

Manner of Making Powder Ill 

Manner of Measuring the Current 144 

Manner of Controlling the Current 145 

Manner of Shampooing 250 

Manner of Treating Milia 79 

Manufacture of Creams 24 

Massage 39 

Massage of the Chin 59 

Massage of the Eyelid 53 

Massage of Feet 237 

Massage of Forehead 51 

Massage of Joint 240 

Massage of Nose 58 

Massage of Neck 55 

Massage Preserves Youth 39 

Massage Roller 201 

Massage Roller, Use of 201 

Massage, Rotary Motion 49 

Massage of Scalp 262 

Massage with Use of Faradic Current 191 

Massage, Water 40 

Mask for Stippled Skins 94 

Masseuse Obtains Results 78 

Mcintosh Dry Cell Battery 147 

Mechanical Appliances, Injurious to Skin 33 

Medici Powder ' 114 

Milia 80 



322 INDEX. 

PAGE 

Naevi, Treatment of 176 

Naevi or Wine Marks 179 

Nail Powder 216 

Nails, Ingrown 242 

Natural Oil of Skin , 15 

Neck and Bust, How to Improve 218 

Necessity for Ventilation of Hair 255 

Necessary Utensils in Making Creams 26 

Needle, Best to Use in Electrolysis 170 

Needle, Bulbous Pointed for Electrolysis * 171 

Needle Entering Hair Follicle 171 

Needle Disc for Removing Naevi 185 

Needle, Selection of 170 

Negative Current, Why Used 169 

Neglect of Scalp 246 

Nose, How Massaged 59 

Normal Skin 15 

Nutrition of Flesh Improved 65 

Obstinate Freckles 106 

Oily Skins 94 

Ointments, as Used by Ancient Nations 21 

Ointments, Bland, for Dandruff 270 

Ointment for Vermin in the Hair 253 

Ointment, Zinc 175 

Orange Wood Stick, Use of 209 

Outfit, Important Feature of Electrolysis 185 

Oxygen, a Necessity 302 

Patrician Hand 203 

Pastilles for Breath 235 

Paste for Neck and Shoulders 224 

Paste, Strawberry 28 

Painful Sunburn 107 

Perfect Development, When Attained 42 

Perspiration of Feet 244 

Perfect Teeth 231 

Peroxide of Hydrogen for Muddy Skins 96 

Physiological Development 298 

Pigment Cells 16 

Pimples 67 

Powerful Bleaches Cause Cauterization 16 

Powder, Bathing 112 

Powder for Dusting into Shoes 244 

Positive Pole, How Used 167 

Powerful Remedies for Treating Moth Patch 84 



INDEX. 323 

PAGE 

Removal of Blackheads 191 

Removal of Moles 172 

Removal of Superfluous Hair 165 

Resting the Heart 312 

Results Obtained by Masseuse 78 

Roller 201 

Rotary Motion, On and About Chin 60 

Rose Jelly 206 

Sallow and Muddy Skin 96 

Saving the Hands 207 

Scalp, Bland Ointment for 270 

Scalp Cleanser 268 

Scales Cast off Constantly 16 

Scaly, Dry and Flabby Skins 100 

Scalp and Hair, Treatment of 255 

Scalp Massage 262 

Scars, Danger of Producing 161 

Scars Left by Pimples Improperly Treated 71 

Scurf or Dandruff, Treatment of 264 

Section of Faradic Battery 155 

Section of Galvanic Battery 153 

Selection of Needle 170 

Shampoo, Bran 250 

Shampoo Chair and Board 131 

Shampoo Mixture 251 

Shoulders, How to Improve 218 

Simplest Form of Galvanic Cell 139 

Simple Shampoo for Dandruff 270 

Skin, Blanching the 188 

Skin, Bleaching the 190 

Skin, Discolorations of '. 188 

Skin Food 30 

Skin Possessed of Natural Oil 15 

Smooth Skin after Successful Work 72 

Soap 120 

Soothing Ointment for Mouth 230 

Solution for Receding Gums 231 

Stick Polish, Use of 211 

Stimulating the Skin by Faradic Current 192 

Stimulating Tonic 257 

Stippled and Sallow Skins 94 

Sterilizing Instruments 123 

Sterilization of Massage Cup 44 

Strawberry Creme , 28 

Strawberry Paste 28 



324 INDEX. 

PAGE 

Street Current with Rheostat 145 

Strengthening the Muscles 311 

Subject to Sterilizing Instruments 123 

Substitutes for Oils 23 

Success of Treatments, Properly Given 19 

Sulphur Bath , 118 

Sunburn 107 

Systematic Work Valuable 41 

Table of Contents 9 

Table of Correct Body Weights 292 

Tan and Sunburn 107 

Teeth 228 

Teeth, Perfect 234 

The Ideal Masseuse 39 

The Mouth and Teeth T 228 

Thickness of Skin 15 

Tincture of Green Soap 75 

Tinting Powder 113 

Tonic for Dandruff 270 

Tonic for Oily Scalp 271 

Tonic for Stimulating Hair 260 

Toothache Remedy 235 

Traveler's Comfort Creme 110 

Traveling Made Comfortable by Cremes 20 

Treatment of Acne 191 

Treatment of Dandruff or Scurf 264 

Treatment of Pimples 71 

Treatment of Moles, Warts and Naevi 176 

Treatments, Properly Given, Successful 19 

Treatment of Scalp and Hair 255 

Treatment Rooms, How to Furnish 129 

Treatment of Vascular Naevi 182 

Trichophytosis 277 

Use of Astringent 61 

Use of Buffer 215 

Use of Cremes, When Traveling 20 

Use of Electricity 138 

Use of the Faradic Current 191 

Use of the Faradone 201 

Use of Files 205 

Use of Soap 116 

Use of Galvanic Current 187 

Use of the Massage Roller 193 

Use of Orangewood Stick 209 



INDEX. 325 

PAGE 

Use of Parchment Strips 38 

Use of Powder 110 

Use of Stick Polish 213 

Use of Water Massage 40 

Use of .the Vibratile 62 

Using the Comedone Extractor 68 

Using the Hair Brush Electrode 256 

Using Hypodermic Syringe 70 

Utensils Necessary in Making Cremes 26 

Value of Systematic Work 41 

Value of Taking Rest 295 

Varieties of Blackheads 65 

Vegetable and Organic Dyes 281 

Vegetable Powder 112 

Vertical Lines 58 

Vibratory Machines 134 

Violet Jelly 117 

Vermin in Hair 253 

Warts, Treatment of 176 

Wash for Mouth 231 

Water Massage 40 

Wet Cell Batteries 152 

Weak Eyes Cause Lines 34 

Weather Worn Appearance Caused by Tan 106 

What Causes Wrinkles 32 

Whitening Paste for the Hands 210 

Why Cremes are Necessary 20 

Why We Massage 39 

Withered Skins 98 

Wool Hair, or Lanugo 22 

Women, Busy, May Exercise 303 

Work of Electrolysis Remunerative . 153 

Work, How Long to, in Electrolysis 157 

Work of Massaging the Face 57 

Work on Warty Growths 178 

Wrinkles, and What Causes Them 32 

Wrinkle Treatment, Certainty of Improvement in 63 

Wrist Electrode 201 

Youthful Appearance of Ancient Greeks 21 

Youth Preserved by Massage 39 

Zinc Ointment t 175 

Zinc Powder ' 152 



EMILY LLOYD I, r. OUTERBRIDGE 

President Supervisor of Instruction 



Marinello Training School 

THE MARINELLO SYSTEM 

Embraces 

Scientific Massage as indicated by the 

position of the blood vessels and nerves. 

Use of Batteries and Electric 

Appliances of all kinds 




Removal of wrinkles ; reducing large pores ; 
making flabby skin firm ; bleaching the skin free 
from moth patch, freckles, and any discoloration 
by instantaneous method, cataphoresis and 
ecorchement system; cure of blackheads, pimples 
and milia ; cure of excessive oiliness ; proper 
daily care of the skin ; care and management of . 
batteries ; permanent removal of superfluous 
hair ; removing warts, moles, naevi and other 
defects without a scar ; treatment of scalp ; na- 
ture of hair ; cure of dandruff ; cure for falling 
hair ; massage of the scalp ; use of sanitary and 
follicle brushes with electricity ; use of radio 
bell for both face and scalp ; dyeing the hair ; 
tinting the hair ; bleaching the hair ; marcel 
waving ; shampooing, both dry and wet ; dress- 
ing the hair ; manicuring ; treatment and care 
of brittle nails ; massaging the hands ; massag- 
ing the neck and bust ; massage of the body as 
approved by scientists ; chiropody and massage 
of the feet ; manner of establishing a successful 
business. 

Catalogue and full information Post Graduate Work a 

on application. Specialty 

Address 

EMILY LLOYD, We £^«^,r k Chicago, 111. 




V 



% 

Electrolytic Water Mas- 
sage, complete .... $6 00 
Comedone Extractor . . 75 
Antiseptic and Bleaching Lotion . . 1 00 

Hair Restorer . 1 00 

Depilatory 50 

Whitening Cream, two sizes, $1 00 50 

Acne Cream, two sizes, 1 00 50 

Tissue Food, two sizes, 1 00 50 

Lettuce Cream , 75 

Olive Soap 50 

Vegetable Face Powder (absolutely 

pure) 50 

Nail Polish 50 

Hair Tonic, dry 50 

Hair Tonic, oily 50 

Scalp Food and Cleanser 50 

Geranium Jelly 25 



These preparations are guaranteed under the 

Pure Food and Drug Act, 

Serial No. 4200 



Manufactured by Marinello Company 



57 Washington Street 



Chicago 



ELECTROLYSIS 
L 



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McINTOSH 14 DRY CELL 
COMBINED BATTERY 




The best portable bat- 
tery on the market for 
work of Electrolysis 
and Facial Massage. 
Contains twelve cells in 
the Galvanic portion, 
giving ample current for 
removal of hair, moles, 
etc. Affords a smooth, 
even current for Facial 
Massage. Finely finished 
and covered with best 
leather. 



We are Headquarters for Dermatological Appliances 

NEW VACUUM CUP 
MASSAGE ELECTRODE 



A popular and efficient 
instrument for vacuum 
massage; especially con- 
structed to give a vacuum 
of proper degree for facial 
treatment. May be 
used with any faradic 
massage battery. 



Send for literature and prices 

McINTOSH BATTERY & OPTICAL CO. 

227-229 Washington Street CHICAGO 




Electric Massage Battery 




Prepare the face with Lettuce Cream. Allow the patient to hold in his 
hand the metal Electrode attached to the battery. Attach the No. 1 handle 
and spongio disc to the other pole of the battery, and apply it to the forehead 
and face according to the tolerance of the patient. The Spongio Disc must be 
thoroughly wet, as the electricity passes through the moisture, and cannot pass 
through dry spongio. This application is especially beneficial in treatment of 
Headache, Neuralgia, and Nervous Fatigue. The Massage Roller is used in 
the same manner as the Spongio Disc. Its especial merit is that when the 
chamois is well moistened a stronger current may be applied regularly to face 
and neck. Send for complete catalogue. 

Mcintosh battery & optical co. 

227-229 Washington Street CHICAGO, ILL. 



NOV 29 ISO? 



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